My car has always been weird on idling always dipping down and almost stalling then picking back up. The other day I started her up today let her idle for 2 mins and then she just stalled. Started her back up and left and didn't have a problem so far. Ive also had a problem ever since I got this car it used to be worse but now its better. If I open up the gas tank while the car is running it stalls. Or if I stop to put gas in it wont start up after I have to hold the accel down while cranking it to get it to start again and hold it up or it will stall again. Its like I have a lost of pressure and it needs to build back up. Fauilty fuel pump im thinking? Any takers..

 

What brand gas do you fill with? Unlikely but it could be bad gas that's gunking up the fuel filter. More likely a faulty pump or fuel pressure regulator. I think you're supposed to get a constant supplied pressure of 43 psi or so with the stock regulator. Check all your vacuum hoses under the hood as well.

 

Look for my posts in this thread : https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/04...0441-help.html

Also, you could probably use a Vise-Grip to pinch the hose and see if this is your problem. But after reading it was related with refueling the car, I'm a 100% sure this is what got your car acting weird.

 

You were on the good track, it is a vacuum leak. Thing is, it's a freaking well hidden one. The culprit is the purge valve solenoid, and it seems to be affecting quite alot of RA's now.

 

So what I should do is change the purge valve solenoid and I should be good to go?

 

Did you try blocking the hose to test it?

If yes and it solved your problem, you need another selenoid.

If not, test it then see the sentences above.

 

Not yet the car is in the garage and if I turn it on it will wake the household up lol but I read your other thread and everything you listen as a problem of the bad solenoid is everything my car has been doing to me since ive had it!!
Will be trying it out tomorrow! Let you know if it fixes the problem

 

^^^THIS^^^

that is my problem as well. the thing with mine is it comes and goes but i know for sure that this is the culprit

let me know how your test goes. i will be trying this out too when the weekend comes around. it's too cold outside to do anything

let's get this problem solved once and for all

 

Yeah foreal been there way to long cant wait to get home to try this out!!! With the description i saw im 95% sure this is the problem anyone have a part number for this?

 

hmmm...

i'm not sure but i searched oemmitsubishiparts.com and found this:

http://oemmitsubishiparts.com/parts/...agramCallOut=5

it's ITEM#5. i'm not sure if that's what we need but i'm still searching it up.

hope this helps boths of us LOL.

 

Can it be torn apart and cleaned? I haven't tried having a look at it yet, I'm thinking there could be rust and **** in there jamming it open. Maybe have it bathe in Wd-40 for a couple hours then work it a bit, then lubricate it correctly... throwing ideas here, if anyone gets to remove it and have a better look at it.

 

i had something like that in my gst but i sold the car and never fix this problem i cant help

 

good luck

 

So just got home from work found the hose real easy with ur help!. I took a pair of plyers really seems like it runs better when the hose Is clamped down so I guess it is the problem I kinda notice when its not clamped down I can hear a leak I think... Now question you said you cut it on both sides and stuffed it. Couldn't clamp it down instead of cutting and stuffing both sides. Also is it harmful for the car?

 

Yeah I thought I wrote it somewhere in here but realize I must have deleted it somehow. Using a Vise-Grip would probably do the same job and leave the hose intact. When I found the problem, I immediately went at it and didn't put much thought into it, so cutting the hose seemed like my only option at the time. We sell hose clamps and hoses at the shop, so even if I changed the whole rubber hose, it would end up costing me less than 10 bucks.

The purpose of the EVAP system is to burn the fuel vapors found in the tank. It contributes to fuel mileage by burning more of the fuel you put in the tank and helps reduce emissions (unburnt fuel vapors are harmful too). The system works in two ways : when the car is running, the purge valve solenoid will open at times to void the tank of vaporized fuel. When the car is stopped, the systems vents to the atmosphere through a charcoal canister which filters harmful emissions. Here, you have to imagine the car parked on asphalt, during summer, at 30 Celsius. The heat causing fuel to vaporize could mean a high risk of explosion, so it needs somewhere to go, which is the charcoal canister. The part where the car is running is all ECU regulated and controlled through the purge valve solenoid. What happened with your car is the valve is stuck open, or on the way to. It likely doesn't react to ECU input anymore.

To explain why you had problems starting the car after refueling, think about all the fuel vapors caused by refueling the car. They had a straight way into your intake manifold, causing a massive flood. This is also why flooring the gas pedal helped starting the car, letting more air in to help burn the massive amount of fuel in the intake manifold, and causing it to run poorly until it was all through. Also, on fuel injected cars, flooring the gas pedal isn't something that should help in any way because it isn't technically a gas pedal, but more of an air pedal. The ecu has 100% control on the amount of fuel to be injected, the only control you have is on what amount of air goes in the intake.

Now that you understand how the system works, can you tell me what changes clamping that hose will do?