I haven't been in a position to check while the issue is happening. I'm not actually sure if it even happens while idling. The times I have noticed it have been cruising on the highway.

I'll mess with it today.

 

Ok, so my compressor clutch engages and starts spinning just fine when I turn the a/c on. Sitting in the driveway and idling for 15 or 20 minutes, it never completely shut off and turned back on like it does on the highway, but it wasn't blowing nearly as cold as it used to.

There aren't any bubbles in the little coolant window, so I don't think it's just low 134a. The low pressure pipe is cool compared to the high pressure side, but not cold.

Now what?

 

I have the same problem, I will try your solution soon. I need to do the timing belt, serpentine belt and tensioner anyways.

 

so the dealership said its the compressor going in fail safe mode . and the compressor is going bad . so quote to repair is 1650 , that's right 1650 . so I went on a wholesale site that sell oem Mitsubishi parts and I bought a brand new oem part if 540. I will be getting it from cali on Thursday and I will install it as soon as ups drops its off.

 

i have the same problem...is there a defect causing a leak? cause my 03 still blows COLD.

i live without it, but there are times when it would be nicer (more nice?) to have than not...

i'm just going to service mine one of these days...i was talking to a guy at work, he used the refill kit on his truck and said it's been working for years.

if it is the compressor in my case, stuff like that i go to a wrecker...i got a power steering pump with only 40,000 km for $75...mitsubishi wanted over $600 just for the part, labour they estimated an hour or two...so that's another $200....

 

Seems like a lot of people with an issue and not a lot of answers.

I guess I'll have mine diagnosed and see what the real issue is.

 

I have issues with mine during the beginning of summertime, or when I need to use it. It seems that I might have a small leak somewhere. Just because I end up with low 134a every summer. I can get it filled easily, but this year I tried the diy cans. I must say it worked, but the stupid guage didn't work properly so it over filled my A/C unit and the compressor couldn't get turned on. Had to get some of it taken out, now gets cold

So if anyone uses the DIY cans, make sure that guage is working haha.

 

There are plenty of solutions here. but regarding your issue is the a/c system is overfilled and is over pressurizing so the pressure switch turns off the compressor (stops blowing cold) than when the pressure drops the compressor kicks back on and you get cold air.

Also I think everyone with manuals should check their pressure hose (the one that goes underneath the compressor) Because mine was covered in the leak detector from the crimp down, I suspect when we drop the trans side down to replace the clutch/ ISB it pulls down on the hose causing a leak.. If your compressor isn't becoming one (magnatising) like truths than I would do what he did

 

hmm...interesting observation RacerX, does this leak detector come in the DIY kits? i may have to finally look into it, you have my curiosty. i've had my transmission out a few times.

 

I've seen this thread and one other 3 page one with probably over a dozen people reporting issues with the a/c and very few people coming back and saying "this is what the issue was and this is what fixed it."

The a/c in my car has been fine since day 1 until very recently. It hasn't been messed with since it never needed it - not been refilled, there's no leak detector in it, etc. So it's not overfilled or anything. The compressor clutch engages and spins just fine as soon as I turn it on. Idling in the shade, it'll blow cool air, but not really cold. On the highway in the heat, it stops blowing cool every 30 seconds or so, then restarts by itself.

I'd try truthdweller's fix but in his post and another thread where I saw removing the spacers referenced seems like that's mainly if the compressor clutch isn't spinning, but mine is.

 

that's weird, mine blows cold for like a minute on a cold start and then blows hot like i have the heat on forever and never recovers.

 

Have you checked the line to see if there is a air bubble in the clear window maybe you are low on r134 Does your a/c fan turn on when you turn the ac on?

Have you checked when it stops blowing cold air if the clutch is still engaged? Mine doesn't blow cold air at all once the r134 leaks out after 3-4 weeks it was 2 weeks before I replace the valve cores on the high pressure and low pressure lines.

Yeah the small can I bought had the uv detector in it.

 

i have asked around about this and from what i remember, they sell the dye in cans at local parts stores. you just gotta mix it in with the refrigerant and it will run through your system. if you see the dye anywhere (hoses, lines, etc.) then you know there's a leak.

i have been planning to work on my a/c system for a while because my girl keeps complaining that my car feels like a pre-heated oven when we first get inside. i know she's right because i feel like i'm being roasted especially on HOT SUMMER DAYS

wanna work on our a/c systems together?

here's the dye that i found in CanTire:

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brows....jsp?locale=en

i think they sell it cheaper @ PartSource though i remember seeing a refill kit + dye for $41.99+tax and the same kit @ CanTire was $79.99+tax.

my consulted a nearby mech that i trust and he says he can fix my a/c system (refill freon, check for leaks, repair/seal leaks, make sure the a/c is fully working) for $120 all-in. do you guys think this is a good deal? i thought it was since the freon cans, refill kit, dye leak detector, seals, etc are already >$80. what do you guys think?

but anyways, hope this helps!

 

This is what I used last time

Edit: http://m.autozone.com/autozone-mobil...261q?id=244735

 

Yes, there are no bubbles in the little window in the line.

The cabin fan works fine - it continues to blow whether the air it's blowing is cool or not.