i know about the o-rings, i have a set of the revised o-rings and seals on the shelf...are you planning on boosting this one? cause unless you are, there's no point in upgrading the fuel pump, and installing larger injectors...

if it's able to run rich, then i can't see the fuel pump or injectors being the culprit...i'm going to have to ponder some more on these symptoms...

 

Get that compression test done. That should give us some better ideas at what is going on inside the engine.

Like Crans, I dont see the pump or injectors being the problem if its turned your plugs black.

 

Yeah the car is going to get boosted, but I want to set it up as a solid NA first so that I have a good platform to build off of. The RA will be supercharged in time. There is a long list of parts going in the car, but I have to find the culprit of this problem first.

Will be getting the compression test Tuesday I hope, also tomorrow I will be checking the timing on the car. Thinking I might have jumped some teeth on start up or initial load. Will let you guys know the results.

Does Ralliart on LSD still come through these forums; also this is a new account. I was up here on a different name before, but couldn't remember my login info.

 

Just out of curiosity, did you ever have a hard time restarting the car after refueling?

 

Got gas the night before it was just over a 1/4 drove the car top topsail and back which is about sixty miles. The next morning it started right up, went to the garden which is about a mile from here, did what I had to do there, went to leave, lost most of its power engine light popped P0171, took it nice and slow back to the house. Only had one car here and had to take someone to work. So, I had to start the car again, but it took a very long time, and I had to give it gas, and give the pump time to prime it. every start since then has sucked....

 

Have you tested your oxygen sensors? The P0171 lean code means your ecu maxed out it's tuning capability. Either you get unmetered air or not enough fuel (or in this situation, possibly thinks it gets too much air). The purge valve solenoid is a possible vacuum leak that often gets overlooked.

Also, I already had similar symptoms on a previous car. Ended up being the cat which was almost completely clogged. Car would run fine for a while then I'd park it then it wouldn't start over. Waited some time (15-20 mins) then it would fire right up. Something with thermal expansion I figured.

 

So, the problem was definitely somewhere in the fuel system.... Had the car flat bedded to the house, reinstalled the old fuel pump and reconnected the battery, after a thorough cleaning, let the car sit with the key in the on position for a minute or two and it started up and ran with a little hiccup for a while... The hiccup went away after the car warmed up, and it ran beautifully. Drove it a little while parked it, and restarted with no issues.... Clogged Fuel pump or filter bag may have been the issue... After cleaning works... Will update this post if I have anymore issues with the vehicle. Going to have the CAT replaced just in-case though... Thanks for all of the help guys!

 

UPDATE: Car was Running fine, and it died again last night with the same problem. Took the fuel pump out and put it back in, and tried to start. It sent no fuel up the line. No check engine light this time....

 

Check voltage to the pump, then follow the wiring upstream (pump, relay, ecu signal...). Recheck fuse also.

 

Fuel gauge stuck, ran out of gas..... I'm an idiot on that one. I will be uploading a video in a minute or two because I think the issue was caused by whatever is going on with it now... Still having a high idle problem.....

 

Here is a link to the video on what the car is doing now! When I pull up on the gas pedal the TPS reading drops to 3.1 and idles normally for a second then the TPS climbs to anywhere between 3.9 - 5.4, and the engine RPM's reflect it....

 

This could be explained by your extremely high intake temps.

Either it's not that high but IAT sensor is faulty, which could lead to bad A/F ratios.

Or it's really freaking hot where you live and the purge valve solenoid is stuck open, feeding gas vapors through it to the intake manifold.

I was once stuck in traffic in 40+ weather (100F+ for you silly non-metric's) and my car wouldn't go under 2500 rpms. Would only do that when the gas was being heated by the smoldering road under it, creating more vapors going right inside the intake.À

Btw, even with a CAI, I usually see intake temps 10+C over outside temp.

 

All of the DTC's are finally reset car is doing good still has a high idle after warm up, and doesn't want to cold start. Have to turn the key forward for a few seconds, turn the engine over. Then repeat 2 or three times to get the engine to start. So my next steps are Fuel Pressure regulator, and new fuel level sender, cold air intake to reduce the intake air temperature, Idle Air Control replacement, and a purge valve solenoid. Then we will see if the problem is fixed.... I am thinking that the high idle is due to the high intake air temperatures. Reached 180 after sitting still in the taco bell drive thru. The temps only climb when the car is sitting for a while, and the idle only climbs when the car is sitting running for a while. Short Ram intakes are no good for a ralliart, engine compartment temps raise the intake air temps to way beyond safe levels. Cruising at about 60 the IAT is about 105, but as soon as the car stops it starts climbing.

 

So the high intake air temp is what was causing the high idle condition. Did a test today to see. let the car warm up normally and waited on it to start its high idle. it starts when IAT is above 165 degree's F. Then I opened the hood and let fresh cool air in and the high idle gradually went away and returned to the normal 750RPM. Going to put the AEM cold air intake on it in a week or two and wrap it with a cool sleeve to keep the engine bay heat from getting in. Putting the intake behind the left front fog light. Then I am taking the stock exhaust manifold out replacing it with a set of OBX headers that are wrapped with exhaust wrap, also will be putting in an oil catch can, and a bypass filter to rid me of the possibilities of liquid lock.... The only issues left to deal with will be the fuel level gauge and the hard starting.

 

is your IAT getting that high with the stock intake? i would say you have a faulty IAT sensor...a cold air intake isn't going to make the intake air any colder than stock, since the stock intake draws air from outside of the engine bay. Also our engine doesn't have an idle air control valve, it's drive by wire, the ECU controls idle air flow with the throttle control motor. my turbo intake is exactly where a short ram intake would be, and i don't have high IAT problems, even when it's 35 degrees celcius (95 F).