Anyone having trouble with their Ralliart?
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Joined: Jul 2004
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Anyone having trouble with their Ralliart?
The reason I am asking is because I am. Its not that bad but definetly something that is noticeable.
The first time you start the car on any particular day, it runs rough and kinda shakey for the first 5-10 seconds, then after that it runs smooth. The rpms aren't fluctuating that much but just a little when this happens. Its almost unoticeable while inside the car, but you really notice it when standing outside.
I can go all day and it won't do that again until the next day when you start it up for the first time.
I don't think its a real serious problem. Once when it did that I gently tapped the gas pedal and it went away instantly.
Should I take it in right away or monitor it and see if it gets real bad?
The first time you start the car on any particular day, it runs rough and kinda shakey for the first 5-10 seconds, then after that it runs smooth. The rpms aren't fluctuating that much but just a little when this happens. Its almost unoticeable while inside the car, but you really notice it when standing outside.
I can go all day and it won't do that again until the next day when you start it up for the first time.
I don't think its a real serious problem. Once when it did that I gently tapped the gas pedal and it went away instantly.
Should I take it in right away or monitor it and see if it gets real bad?
I think thats normal. It happens to mine and I beleave there was another thread about this. Thats the first thing that i notced when i got mine, when it first started it almost sounded like a truck, then after a couple of second it goes normal,
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Chicago
mine vibrates a little in the morning right when I start it up (kinda like a pulsing), but then goes away after 5-10 mins.
Just keep an eye on it, if it gets worse, take it to the dealer. But it sounds normal.
Just keep an eye on it, if it gets worse, take it to the dealer. But it sounds normal.
Haha, I was expecting your car to have at least broke down, it sounds like you have a case of paranoia automaphobia.
It's pretty normal for a car to vibrate a bit on a cold start mine does it every single morning it's nothing to worry about. I actually just do like you said give it a little gas and it's gone.
It's pretty normal for a car to vibrate a bit on a cold start mine does it every single morning it's nothing to worry about. I actually just do like you said give it a little gas and it's gone.
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The rpms surge a little bit. For those first 5-10 seconds it idles very roughly, the rpms going up a down a little. Usually at one point it almost, almost sounds like it might get close to dying then it smooths out and everything is fine.
Not paranoia really. I just don't want my $20K car to have problems.
Not paranoia really. I just don't want my $20K car to have problems.
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Well, I've got worst myself... but I know it's my fault.
When I installed the new head light bulbs (Sylvania), I disconnected the throttle sensor to give myself a bit of room to work... but forgot to plug it back on the first time I started the car up. The service engine light came up and I quickly shut it down and thought of the sensor.
But once it was plugged back on, the light wouldn't go away. So I reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery and plugging it back on. The light was off right away... but now it sometimes stalls on me when I start it up in the morning (or when it's been parked for a long period of time). Quite frankly, I think they might flash the original ECU just before the car ships from the factory... but I got mine back to the base settings. It sucks, but it's no big deal though...
When I installed the new head light bulbs (Sylvania), I disconnected the throttle sensor to give myself a bit of room to work... but forgot to plug it back on the first time I started the car up. The service engine light came up and I quickly shut it down and thought of the sensor.
But once it was plugged back on, the light wouldn't go away. So I reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery and plugging it back on. The light was off right away... but now it sometimes stalls on me when I start it up in the morning (or when it's been parked for a long period of time). Quite frankly, I think they might flash the original ECU just before the car ships from the factory... but I got mine back to the base settings. It sucks, but it's no big deal though...
You do?!? Even after unpluging the sensor I could barely change it! And a buddy of mine who owns another RA also thought it was a bit cramped (more so on the passenger side where the sensor is)...
Some people think that you can warm up your car more effectively by not letting it idle, but to immediately put in gear and drive gingerly for the warm up - this heats the oil much quicker and that's the point of warm up.
Just food for thought
Just food for thought
I think a rough (or loping) idle is a byproduct of the 'hot' cams that give more top end power. That's the trade-off for more power. It almost gives the RA a 'mini muscle car attitude'
when i start up in the morning, the car fast idles for about 30 seconds then drop back down, then i just drive away slow for the 5 to 10 minutes it takes to warm everything (tranny, engine, fluid, etc) and then i let it rip
i have problem with the clutch engagement when it's cold though.. i have to put in more gas to rev it up and slip the clutch, otherwise i get "bunny hops" .. anybody see this?
-joe
i have problem with the clutch engagement when it's cold though.. i have to put in more gas to rev it up and slip the clutch, otherwise i get "bunny hops" .. anybody see this?
-joe
