Spring Install (TEIN)
Update: I got the rear totally done; I had to take the camber bolt off. When reinstalling, I just adjusted it to as close as I could to when I found it. The rumors are true, the rear will raise up maybe 1/8 to 1/4".
However, more fun with the front...I got the spring/strut assembly out of the car, but I can't get the nut at the top of the strut piston off, to release the upper mount (and thus the spring).
The strut shaft certainly does turn! The above quote applies to only the rear strut (pic #5 on that link). On the front, due to the design of the upper strut mount, you can't get at both the bolt and use a wrench to prevent the strut shaft from turning. Any advice, anyone? I thought this'd be a casual afternoon job...
However, more fun with the front...I got the spring/strut assembly out of the car, but I can't get the nut at the top of the strut piston off, to release the upper mount (and thus the spring).
Update: I got the rear totally done; I had to take the camber bolt off. When reinstalling, I just adjusted it to as close as I could to when I found it. The rumors are true, the rear will raise up maybe 1/8 to 1/4".
However, more fun with the front...I got the spring/strut assembly out of the car, but I can't get the nut at the top of the strut piston off, to release the upper mount (and thus the spring).
The strut shaft certainly does turn! The above quote applies to only the rear strut (pic #5 on that link). On the front, due to the design of the upper strut mount, you can't get at both the bolt and use a wrench to prevent the strut shaft from turning. Any advice, anyone? I thought this'd be a casual afternoon job...
However, more fun with the front...I got the spring/strut assembly out of the car, but I can't get the nut at the top of the strut piston off, to release the upper mount (and thus the spring).
The strut shaft certainly does turn! The above quote applies to only the rear strut (pic #5 on that link). On the front, due to the design of the upper strut mount, you can't get at both the bolt and use a wrench to prevent the strut shaft from turning. Any advice, anyone? I thought this'd be a casual afternoon job...

Coil compressor or air compressor? You don't need either, but having them does make the job a lot easier, faster. Coil compressors are cheap, too. $10 to buy, and many places will rent them to you for free.
Check his thread in the FS section.
Check his thread in the FS section.
well I just got done with one side of the rear and that was a pain in my butt.. those two bolts were hard to get out. there are not any how to's either for the ralliart.. which sucks
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The process is identical for the base Lancers.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=55493
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=55493
For the strut bolt, you'll just have to work at it. Worst case, get a replacement bolt then cut the one that's on the car. As for the other, we ran into that on a friend's car. We quit fighting with it and instead removed the camber bolt where the control arm hooks up at the center of the car. Just remember to put it back, at least close, to the same adjustment you took it out at. You'll need to get an alignment, anyways.
The bolts might not be seized but may be stuck from the weight of the suspension. Use a jack to alleviate some of the weight. You can spray it with wd40 or pb plaster if you want but i find the best tool is a hammer and a bolt of similar diameter and hammer away.
na man she was seized..and seized good she was. i soaked it in wd40 and hammered and torqued it and nothing for an hour so i finally drilled both ends out to 1/4 inch and then hand hack sawed my way through. other then that went great anyone interested in BC coils i love them their awesome and look really high quality.
Im thinking about getting these S-Tech's. I love the way the stance looks with these springs. Im just curious, if I was to get 17" rims down the road would they rub easily? Or is that something I wont have to worry about?











