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09+ Lancer Ralliart General Discuss any generalized technical factory turbocharged Ralliart related topics that may not fit into the other forums.

New 2010 RA owner

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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 01:13 PM
  #1  
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From: Huntington, WV
New 2010 RA owner

Just wanted to stop in and say hello from Huntington, WV. Heard a lot of good things about the Lancer, really wanted to get an EVO, but was limited on time (couldn't afford to keep the rental and wait on one to be ordered). I used to be the owner of a 2009 Dodge Challenger, but some kid thought he was invincible and found out the downside to speeding and hitting black ice. He clipped me and the damage he did caused some fluid to leak onto the exhaust manifold and my car burned to the ground. So I tried my level best to replace it with another challenger, but having spent a lot of money in addons and not really wanting to do it again... I moved on.

This Lancer will be my first turbo charged vehicle. Any helpful suggestions on maintenance and care for the turbo, also if I wanted to pump out some more horsepower, what is the best way to go. I'm used to muscle cars and the standard CAI, throttle body.. etc etc. Did not know if it would be the same route with these cars.

Here are some pics..









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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 01:18 PM
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From: SWFL
Looks very nice as far a simple power adders the best is a ecu reflash for around 500 dollars you can get around 50 more awhp. I have all ams parts on my car and I'm very happy with the feel. I havnt dyno'd my car but I will say with my add ons I have around 290 awhp.
I have these parts on my car
AMS STAGE 2 ECU REFLASH
AMS INTAKE
AMS MINI BATTERY KIT
AMS BOOST PILL
AMS CATBACK.
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 01:27 PM
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Congrats and welcome. A couple things things will help care for your turbo:

  • Use a quality synthetic oil, and check/change your oil often. The turbo uses the same engine oil to cool and lubricate itself. 5w30 is recommended for our car.
  • Try to use the highest octane gas you can find.
  • Give your car some extra time to cool down before turning it off immediately after hard driving. Your turbo gets very hot and when you shut your engine off, oil is no longer moving through the turbo. This means heat won't be properly dissipated and could damage the turbo.
Making power in these cars is quite a bit different than in a NA vehicle. The biggest, undisputed bang-for-your-buck mod is definitely a tune - for about $500 you can add 50+ hp/tq. A turbo-back exhaust will give you decent gains, and upgrading your intercooler, pipes, and air filter will help as well. If you're really serious about making power, you'll want to look at swapping in an EvoX turbo.

Last edited by velocityhead; Feb 28, 2010 at 01:30 PM.
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 03:54 PM
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From: king of prussia, pa
Congrats on the new car, and welcome.

One of the top reviewer and owner complaints are the weak stock summer 215/45/18 tires, if you want to stick with the stock rims get some performance 225/45/18 tires. Check out the wheel fitment thread for more meaty wheel/tire replacement help.
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 04:08 PM
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ya x2 on the tires. i need to get some wider tires with some better grip
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 05:17 PM
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From: SWFL
That's something I just did also I put some lightweight wheels and wider tires on. It made a noticable diffrance.
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 06:25 PM
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From: Eastern NC
If you want cheap power, check out this thread.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/09...t-basemap.html
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 08:40 PM
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From: Wonder lake IL
Welcome!
And i'm like 08lancer89, All AMS. best route to take.
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 08:43 PM
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From: SWFL
Yeah buddy.
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Old Mar 1, 2010 | 08:08 AM
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My only suggestion is...
Get rid of it before the warranty is up. It's a fun car to drive, but you need lots of $$ to maintain the thing.
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Old Mar 1, 2010 | 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by RotorGlow
My only suggestion is...
Get rid of it before the warranty is up. It's a fun car to drive, but you need lots of $$ to maintain the thing.
What are you basing this on? The current platform has not been out long enough to get into real "maintenance" I do not think. The transmission is a big unknown for long-term use, but that's about it.

-Taranis
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Old Mar 1, 2010 | 10:21 AM
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Uhhh...a BASIC oil change service is $250 CDN. I just had my AWC pump replaced at a cost of over $2,000 CDN (under warranty, thank god). The transmission seems to be having a few issues based on other peoples experiences. I've owned a Toyota and I can say I'd rather worry about my gas pedal sticking to the floor mat (which never happened to me when I had my 2006 Taco), then worry about my $6-8,000 transmission blowing up outside of warranty.

I've just had too many issues with this car.
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Old Mar 1, 2010 | 10:55 AM
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From: Huntington, WV
Thanks for all the info and tips. I might start looking this summer for a beater to drive around for work and park this car for a weekend adventure if I go down the road of modding. I spent too much money on my SE Challenger, after everything was said and done though, I had a supercharged SE pushing 306 horsepower to the rear wheels, was fun to give the RT guys a run for their money when they weren't expecting it.

Is there a preferred vendor everyone uses for their addons?

@RotorFlow
How is the world is a basic oil change $250 CDN, after exchange thats $239 American. Sounds like you got taken for a ride...
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Old Mar 1, 2010 | 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by RotorGlow
Uhhh...a BASIC oil change service is $250 CDN. I just had my AWC pump replaced at a cost of over $2,000 CDN (under warranty, thank god). The transmission seems to be having a few issues based on other peoples experiences. I've owned a Toyota and I can say I'd rather worry about my gas pedal sticking to the floor mat (which never happened to me when I had my 2006 Taco), then worry about my $6-8,000 transmission blowing up outside of warranty.

I've just had too many issues with this car.

$250 CDN! lol does your dealer give you a towel after he soaks you?
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Old Mar 1, 2010 | 11:07 AM
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Heh, I refused to pay for it. Only ended up paying $167. So atleast they used a bit of lube
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