Brake reservoir so hot it is bubbling means the brakes are dragging (parking brake not releasing?) or it was tracked.

 

If it's at a dealer and you tell them about a problem that was there while it was on the lot don't they have to fix it free of charge? Or am I wrong? That's what happened when we bought my brother's truck.

 

I agree find a better deal. They are out there just be patient.

 

I don't think "they have to fix it", but if they want someone to buy the car then yes. Also, depends on the safety implications and the corresponding federal/state laws.

 

Wait. There are bubbles in the brake fluid reservoir and you guys think it's due to boiling of brake fluid?

How about not offering opinions if you don't know what you're talking about.

For the fluid in the reservoir to boil it would have to be in excess of 500 degrees. If that were possible due to hard braking, the fluid in the lines would have long ago been useless for stopping the car.

IF the brake pedal was firm, the bubbles were not from overuse of the brakes.

Nevertheless, they shouldn't be there. Have the car checked by a mechanic if you're serious about buying it.

 

Are you kidding me right now? Ralliart runs DOT 3 fluid from factory; dry DOT 3 brake fluid boils well below 500, hell not even some dry DOT 4 brake fluids boil at 500. I was getting the impression the brake fluid is wet hence the boiling issue. I wouldn't buy the car based on that alone, whether the fluid is boiling or you were tripping on shrooms.

 

Its a 2009 with 36k miles I should have been more clear.

 

2009, now that makes a considerable difference (for obvious reasons).
Find a mitsu performance shop near where you live, and have someone who works on these cars take a look. If its simply a matter of blowing out the brake lines, then it might be a good purchase.
Don't get any old "shade-tree" mechanic to look it over; there is a lot more going on with new turbo cars (especially electronically controlled ones). These cars in no way will correlate to the old carburetor-type cars, so make sure you get a mechanic is familiar with the in's-n-out's (maybe if you send 03chi-townOZ a pm and kick him a $50 spot he can take a look for you; being that he is in the Chicago area and is a certified Mitsu mechanic )

 

Yeah that is better mileage for the year just get it checked out. 50.00 is a lot cheaper than a money pit when things start going wrong.

 

I ended up buying it there giving me a big extended warranty.

 

If you needed to finance and you have good credit, you may have made a blunder unless the 09 was SUPER cheap. What was the total out of pocket for the 09? Including tax, fees and interest? If it was anywhere near 30 grand, you could have just wheeled and dealed yourself a new one using the super low interest from mitsu. If you did a cash buy...or mostly cash buy, then that's different...but financed at ~6% interest on 22 grand isn't gonna be much cheaper then .9% interst on 28 grand. That stupid old adagge of getting a slightly used car saves a lot of money is wrong in many cases (like if you can get super low interests and/or discounts on the new car).

 

You might be mistaking the ACD res with the brake res. The ACD res is normal for it to "look" like it's bubbling after driving it like it's meant to be driven.

 

It's the powersteering res not breaks duhh!! Lol and I paid 21k out the door

 

^cash