I am putting this in here as it's more about the fabrication than audio itself. With that said...
I wanted to do a real stealth install. Not some lame mtx type of crap. Something you can hear, but when you try to look you can't find it. So I took out the spare and began to work. Now I am at the point that I am almost finished and figured I would throw a couple pics of the fabrication process. Also, I made this an interchangeable baffle so I can change out subs with out redoing the enclosure. I will be finishing tomorrow with the lid.

Here is the wheel well bare before I start.


Then I start the prep phase. I used two layers of masking tape to ensure there would be no bleed over of resin getting through. Next time I am using foil lol. Masking big project = PITA.


After that I made the frame for the amp and sides.


With everything in place I lay down two layers fiberglass. Chopped for the curves, and woven for the flatter stuff.


After the resin hardened a good bit and took shape, I took out the enclosure and stripped off what I could of the tape. Not that important.


Finishing up most of the fiberglass, I put down a total of six layers and reinforced the flat areas with aluminum bars.


Here is the enclosure after putting the top part on with the brace for the interchangeable baffle.


And this is the enclosure just about finished. Polk mm1540 dvc and JL Gmax amp.

 

Excellent! I am very interested in this project. I did the same thing (but with the amp under the passenger seat) in the back hatch area for my Protege5 wagon.

I built the two 10" subs into a sealed box as a false floor OVER the spare (to keep the ability to have the spare tire when (and i did) need it). Then put the stock carpet over it and just cut out for the subs and put grills on. It did collect dirt and the grills would have to be periodically removed and the subs carefully vacuumed...

Could I just build the 'surround and top' but seal it to the trunk cavity ( to save the effort of f'glassing the bottom)? I.e. let the trunk well be part of the enclosure... Thoughts?

 

I think the problem with sealing it from the top would be the shape of the trunk and the plastic trim pieces. I wouldn't apply anything to plastic as well because plastic is weak and moves a lot. If you were to do it, I would fiberglass the shape of where you want to seal it from to ensure that you enclosure will seal, then fiberglass the shape to the wood of the enclosure.

 

Also I was doing this for 2 x 15's but the other one fell and broke.

 

^ D'oh! ><

Did you put some attic insulation loosely packed to reduce standing waves?

 

Polyfil? I mainly use it for ported enclosures. With sealed enclosures, you don't have to worry about the back waves interfering.

 

Nice!

 

Going to try and finish it up today. Could not find the perforated metal I wanted so I am having to make my own.

 

Just finished making the perforated metal I could not find. Should be finishing up tonight finally.

 

Yay!!! Finally finished. The flash on my phone is broke so I had to boost the brightness on the second pic. I will try to get a better pic tomorrow.
I put small trim of wood around the metal so as to make it flush with the rest of the trunk, and I carpeted it.

After many of hours of work... here it is completed.

 

nice... how thick is the sheet metal, and where does one get that stuff?

Also, is it aluminum?

 

It's aluminum, about 1/4 inch, and I got it from a local metal shop. The stock lid sits in about 3/4 of an inch, so the wood trim I used as raisers is 1/2 inch giving it an overall height of 3/4 of inch to sit flush.

 

Took another pic today.

 

Sweet install!! Props for doing the fiberglass yourself.

 

Thank you. Can't wait for this week though. I have sparco rims, tein drops springs, openport tuner, lamin-x head light and tail light black out, ams boost pill, ams bov, depo high flow cat, and magnaflo exhaust coming in.