Yeah I think this recall changed the torque tables like you said from over boosting in the cold winter from what I understand and the dealer said. I wouldn't worry about it unless it happens again or you get a recall notice. You could always call your local dealer and have them run your vin for open recalls or tsb or anything.

 

I have the same code popping up even after the reflash then I go wot threw a few gears and my service engine light comes on and when I stop my car idles at 1500-1700 but then I shut it off and turn it right back on and idles normal

 

Is it just the check engine light that comes on or other lights too? Do you know the code? Looking at the list of your mods I would say check you tune and make sure no intercoolers or couplers are leaking. Make sure theres no vacuum leaks. Did you check the hose under the plastic engine cover for the spark plugs? sometimes that comes off. Make sure the boost gauge T isn't leaking. Some people say the oil from the k and n air filters burn on the MAF sensor but I have one and havnt seen this happen. I would clean that with MAF cleaner. The code would be the most help. I havnt had any issues with the reflash or know anyone who has from the dealer.

 

I have these code's P0513 P0456 P0068 and my car runs a little rich but my tune is good I have had it for a yr and a half cleaned the sensor I don't use the K&N air filter oil I use my pj1 spray that I used on my race bikes the 513 is for my key's saying I have the wrong immobilizer key witch I don't understand that one and I have no leaks that I have noticed boost holds 21lbs to redline but never run it hard all my mods have been on since april 2011 just got to figure these out 2 months ago I had 7 codes so I am on my way to having 0 lol

 

P0513 - Immobilizer Malfunction
TECHNICAL DESCRIPTION
•ECM monitors the communication condition with the immobilizer-ECU. When an abnormality in communication is found, ECM prevents engine start.

TROUBLESHOOTING HINTS (The most likely causes for this code to be set are
•CAN system failed.
•Immobilizer system failed.
•ECM failed.

P0456 - Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (very small leak)

TECHNICAL DESCRIPTION
•The ECM monitors the Evaporative Emission (EVAP) System pressure.
•The ECM controls the evaporative emission ventilation solenoid. It closes the evaporative emission ventilation solenoid to seal the evaporative emission canister side of the system.
•The evaporative emission purge solenoid is opened to allow manifold vacuum to create low pressure (vacuum) in the EVAP system.
•When the EVAP system develops a vacuum of 2 kPa (0.29 psi), the evaporative emission purge solenoid is closed and the fuel system vacuum is maintained at 2 kPa (0.29 psi).
•The ECM determines whether there is a leak in the EVAP system by monitoring the vacuum inside the fuel tank.
•The test is stopped when fuel vapor

TROUBLESHOOTING HINTS (THE MOST LIKELY CAUSES FOR THIS CODE TO BE SET ARE
•Loose fuel cap.
•Fuel cap relief pressure is incorrect.
•Malfunction of the evaporative emission canister seal.
•Malfunction of the fuel tank, purge line or vapor line seal.
•Malfunction of the evaporative emission ventilation solenoid.

P0068 - Mass Airflow Sensor Plausibility

TECHNICAL DESCRIPTION
Compare the actual measurement of volumetric efficiency by a mass airflow sensor signal with volumetric efficiency estimated from a throttle position sensor (main or sub) signal.

TROUBLESHOOTING HINTS (The most likely causes for this code to be set are
•Mass airflow sensor system failed.
•Intake system vacuum leak.
•There is some foreign matter around mass airflow sensor.
•Intake charge pressure failed.
•Intake charge pressure control system failed.
•ECM failed.

 

Did you try your other key remote or a new battery? Start there. Than I would buy a new MAF sensor and gas cap.

 

New maf check already done still came on so I cleaned it and cleaned my filter took every chemical off of it put it back in still came on the big problem is when I go wot from 1 st 2nd gear and run it to around 6k then I stop my car revs at 1500-1700 rpm then I let it sit still no change but I turn it off and right back on and car idles normal but other than that the car runs perfect no boost leak I have checks all my hoses no leaks I am taking it to mitsu this coming week and having my buddy look at it he is the tech who works on my car there I know I didnt do correct punctuation its just one long sentence lol oh and by the way Happy Easter

 

Yeah no problem I don't worry about correct punctuation lol. I Would go back to stock factory ECU instead of any kind of tune disconnect the negative battery and let it sit a while and let the ECU reset. Than give it a few days and some miles. Than try that, that should tell you if it has anything to do with the tune. I'm glad you have a buddy in with a dealer because 9 out of 10 times they don't want to know nothing even worse with mods. Other than that check live data when you do a pull and see if you can see anything. Do you have anything that you can do data logs with? Yeah happy Easter to you too,

 

No I do not have anyway to log anything but I am going to try and let the battery sit with the negative off. I will do that tomorrow just got home from my uncles funeral

 

Yeah try that without the tune flashed so your running stock map. And sorry to hear that.

 

I can't flash it back to stock bec I don't own a traxis cable or how ever you spell it lol I had a friend flash it when I was in jersy for mod in 2012 I just have the stock map on my computer though unless someone who lives in western md or southern pa wv that has one and could help me out would be awesome

 

Yeah that sucks, try to find one cheap on EBay or someone selling one on a forum. It might not be the tune anyway I way just trying the easy ways to eliminate the things that can be causing these problems.

 

did you ever get it resolved? Have the same code in my lancer ES how much did it cost to fix? Was wondering if I have to take it to the dealership or if a commercial mechanic can fix the issue. Thanks