Fuego's Project Car!
Well after looking through this forum, I decided to make the ralliart a project car for my son and I. Some work will be done at home and some will be done at a shop. Either way here is a list of what I have and what I will be getting. I will also try to include pictures when I can.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/at...r-img_6679.jpg https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/at...r-img_6731.jpg https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/at...r-img_6738.jpg IMPORTANT ~Upgraded Fuel Relays! ~Idler Pulley Upgrade! Tuning ~Tuned at Kozmic Motorsports ~EvoScan & EcuFlash & Tactrix 2.0 ~Grimspeed 3-port ebcs Suspension ~BC Coilovers RAM Type w/ Rear Extenders & 8k Front and Rear Swift Springs ~Whiteline Swaybars (Front 26" and Rear 24") and rear diffs mount bushing, Laterial Locks for Front Swaybar, Front Sway Bar Links, Front Lower Control Arm Bushings, Front Control Arm Bushings ~CV Boots replaced and used Amsoil Grease, Tie Rod End and Steering boot replaced ~Evo X Front End links for the Rear ~Rims - XXR-522 18x9.5 Chromium Black ~Tires - Michelin Pilot Super Sport 255/40ZR18XL ~Rear Camber Arms Adjustable (RealTune) ~Rear Toe Links (RealTune) Engine ~Evo X Turbo `ETS UICP & LICP, 5" Intercooler and Air Intake ~Synapse DV ~Evo X spark plugs ~FID Front motor mount ~Mil.Spec 64mm TB ~Driven Fab Catch Can Fuel System ~FIC 1100 High Impedence Injectors ~Bomba Fuel Rail ~Kozmic Fuelkit Walbro450 ~MAP AFPR Hose Kit w/ Turbosmart FPR Transmission ~SSP 500 Clutch Pack and Seals ~Transmission Cooler w/ Fan - Custom Built Exhaust ~AMS Widemouth Downpipe ~ETS HFC ~Borla Catback Exhaust ~Vibrant Resonator ~MAP Investment Exhaust Manifold Others ~Rear Battery Relocation ~Black Window Door trims to replace the Chrome ones ~Weathertech All Weather Mats (Black) ~Tinted Windows ~PIAA 500HZ + 600HZ Sports Horn ~Anzo USA 121428 Black Halo Projector Headlight Sound ~Pioneer AVH-X2800BS ~American International Dash Kit ~Polk Audio DB651 6.5" & DB6501 ~Rockford Fosgate Twisted Pair 20-Feet Signal Cable ~Rockford Fosgate P3D4-10 Punch ~Planet Audio AC1800.5 ANARCHY ~MicroBypass ALL AVH-X ~10-Inch Single Sealed Subwoofer Enclosure ~License Plate Car Rear View Camera ~14 Gauge AWG RED/BK Speaker Wire ~PAC SWI-RC Steering Wheel Contrl BodyKit ~SSP Evo X Aluminum Under Tray ~Evo X Body Kit Illuzion front bumper ~Evo X Look Rear Bumper: 106955 Duraflex ~Evo X GT Concept Front Fenders : 104641 ~Evo X Look Rear Fender Flares (4-pieces): 106957 Duraflex ~Evo X Look Side Skirts: 106954 Duraflex ~2008-2011 OEM Window Sun Visors ~Custom Wind Spliter ~Front Carnards Future Mods: ~Rebuilt Engine - Not sure yet what I will do. ~GSC S2 Cams, and head ported by HeadGames Motorworks 4B Pocket Port “R” Package 031 or something similar to this. ~Kozmic Motorsports Rebuilt Transmission. ~EFR Turbo. |
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https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/at...d-img_2999.jpg
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/at...d-img_3003.jpg It would not let me repost these pics {thumbdwn} How the car looks now was done by the previous owner. |
I love the front.
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Good luck man. Get an exhaust on that thing!! X-)
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I'd paint the mesh black, then it would super clean :)
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Originally Posted by Snipingdude
(Post 9703610)
Good luck man. Get an exhaust on that thing!! X-)
Yea, I can't wait to get the exhaust. Will probably get the Borla first then the rest of the exhaust stuff. |
Originally Posted by sstevojr
(Post 9703625)
I'd paint the mesh black, then it would super clean :)
I agree, also need to take a picture of it's assets. The body kit he put on hides my mufflers {thumbdwn} Might be the reason I don't have a picture right now... :lol: |
I like the bumper on that body kit, VERY CLEAN!
Oh and I don't think AMI is making the pillar mounts any more (I would like one as well) For the rear sway, pcick-up end-links from Racing Line, I've already blown sets of stockers w/ the 26mm (once on soft, the other on medium). Order the Evo X front endlinks, fully adjustable for the RA rear :D EDIT: To clarify I mean the body kit you put up the link for, not the one on the car. The one on the car is ok, but the linked one is {thumbup} |
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I hate to upload these pics :mad: but it had to be done. The previous owner used a regular lancer body kit and not one for the ralliart. {thumbdwn}
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That really does not work with the muffler
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Originally Posted by sstevojr
(Post 9703889)
That really does not work with the muffler
TThe main reason I want to change the full body kit! Few other stuff but the rear end pisses me off... :mad: |
Good project. I hope when my son is older tge RA can become our project. On a side note this thread proly belongs in the show and shine section.
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Is that the stock exhaust, "modified for fit" by having an oranutang swing on the tips?
That's classic. Imagine the head-scratching by the previous owner when the rear spoiler didn't fit, followed by "I've GOT it!"... Rich |
wow the rear bumper and diffuser actually looks good imo...see if you can extend your tips out when you get your system man
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As far as tuners go, in TX, you're relatively in luck since SSP just opened up a shop down there, iirc. I say relatively since I don't know exactly where and it is quite a large state (duh) but if I were there, it'd be worth the drive either way...that's definitely the place to go!!
Also, +1 on painting the mesh black. Would clean it up very nicely. |
Rims
Well here are the two rims i'm thinking of.
http://www.wheeldude.com/catalog/pro...oducts_id=5745 http://www.ebay.com/itm/XXR-522-18-1...item4cfa8484a9 Opinions please and yes, I know the 2nd one would need to have the fenders rolled!!! |
Rolled, and pulled depending on what size tire you decide to go with. Would look good if done well, though.
The fitment on the first set is much milder and you may be inclined to swap them out in the future if you are looking for a somewhat-aggressive fitment, so if you plan on going big, you may as well do it the way you want from the get-go |
Originally Posted by Snipingdude
(Post 9703945)
wow the rear bumper and diffuser actually looks good imo...see if you can extend your tips out when you get your system man
I agree but if you look closely at my rear lights you will see that their is a gap. This problem with this body kit is that it does not fit the ralliart perfectly, it's to bad that this issue also happens at other parts but is not as apparent! Though, I might remove it and see if I can fix it. If not then we have issues.. lol.... It will be a lot cheaper then getting another body kit, that's for sure. It would be a rare body kit on the ralliart though. :D Since everyone likes it, it's making me very happy now. I did always like the body kit but the issues with it made me :confused: whether I should keep it or not. |
Originally Posted by 03chi-town0Z
(Post 9703949)
As far as tuners go, in TX, you're relatively in luck since SSP just opened up a shop down there, iirc. I say relatively since I don't know exactly where and it is quite a large state (duh) but if I were there, it'd be worth the drive either way...that's definitely the place to go!!
Also, +1 on painting the mesh black. Would clean it up very nicely. I'm getting plasti-dip soon (bye bye chrome!), should I use that on the mesh? |
Sure plasitdip the mesh (does it unscrew?) that will work
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Damn, El Paso it pretty much way the hell out there. Might as well mob it 8 hrs to Plano and go see COBB
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welcome to the RG RA club. check out my username on evoxforums dot com and you can check out my build. I have an X swap and am currently re-tuning and at 340ish whp.
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Burn that bodykit with fire
Other than that good luck sir! |
I have XXR 522 18x8.5. I really like em.
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Originally Posted by richardjh
(Post 9703942)
Is that the stock exhaust, "modified for fit" by having an oranutang swing on the tips?
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Originally Posted by richardjh
(Post 9703942)
Is that the stock exhaust, "modified for fit" by having an oranutang swing on the tips?
That's classic. Imagine the head-scratching by the previous owner when the rear spoiler didn't fit, followed by "I've GOT it!"... Rich Might be why he sold it. lol... Works for me! I have PLANS.... :lol: It's the stock exhaust currently on it. To quiet if you ask me. BORLA BORLA BORLA! |
Originally Posted by sstevojr
(Post 9704317)
Sure plasitdip the mesh (does it unscrew?) that will work
Pics should be up tomorrow. |
Originally Posted by nyczlegacy
(Post 9704674)
Burn that bodykit with fire
Other than that good luck sir!
Originally Posted by sstevojr
(Post 9703641)
EDIT: To clarify I mean the body kit you put up the link for, not the one on the car. The one on the car is ok, but the linked one is
Decissions Decissions....
Originally Posted by sstevojr
(Post 9704323)
Damn, El Paso it pretty much way the hell out there. Might as well mob it 8 hrs to Plano and go see COBB
Originally Posted by pounder
(Post 9704420)
welcome to the RG RA club. check out my username on evoxforums dot com and you can check out my build. I have an X swap and am currently re-tuning and at 340ish whp.
I'm going over to check your build out now. So here is an update: I installed thee EVO X BOV and THE GST pill. Took me about 1 hour to do it all. the hose were the pill was did not want to come off. Then I reflashed the ECU with the GST 91 Boost Pill Tune V2.5 Took it for a test drive and it was amazing the difference! I shifted at 7500 RPMs, not sure if thats good or bad for the car. It was a test drive though. lol.... |
I shifted at 7500 RPMs, not sure if thats good or bad for the car. It was a test drive though. lol.... On a more serious note, periodic red-line's is good for a high performance car like this. An easy way to damage the engine is putzing around for a year never going over 3k rpm, then deciding to go drive 'aggressively'. There will be a higher likely hood of an exhaust valve getting stuck from carbon build-up. |
Originally Posted by sstevojr
(Post 9705335)
It's all good, I take my car to red-line ATLEAST once a week. Nothing like a Ferrari tune to get rid of carbon build-up :D
On a more serious note, periodic red-line's is good for a high performance car like this. An easy way to damage the engine is putzing around for a year never going over 3k rpm, then deciding to go drive 'aggressively'. There will be a higher likely hood of an exhaust valve getting stuck from carbon build-up. Thanks!!! {thumbup} Well, I stopped at 7500 RPMs but i'm not sure what the max RPM was. Was kind of worried about going higher! :eek: Cheers :beer: / hold on i'm at work so it's rootbeer! :crap: |
IIRC on the GST it's 7600
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Ok so after much thinking i'm going with these rims!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/XXR-522-18-18x9-5-5x114-3-BRONZE-WHEELS-RIM-EVO-8-X-STI-/330620503209?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories &vxp=mtr&hash=item4cfa8484a9
Originally Posted by 03chi-town0Z
(Post 9703971)
Rolled, and pulled depending on what size tire you decide to go with. Would look good if done well, though.
The fitment on the first set is much milder and you may be inclined to swap them out in the future if you are looking for a somewhat-aggressive fitment, so if you plan on going big, you may as well do it the way you want from the get-go
Originally Posted by EyeDreamt
(Post 9704762)
I have XXR 522 18x8.5. I really like em.
Originally Posted by sstevojr
(Post 9705444)
IIRC on the GST it's 7600
New update: Ok so I painted the mesh plack and the window trip with plasti-dip. Also, adding to my list is the skip plate! http://www.xrossmotorsports.com/Rall...-Ralliart.html I also have green neon lights sitting garage forever and I think it will go well with the car. lol... I had to put a front license plate on. Did not really want to but I have no choice before I get a ticket and I have been pulled over for it! |
Shouldve went with the side plate :( Your blocking the front too much with it.
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Originally Posted by xwxspawnxwx
(Post 9711460)
Shouldve went with the side plate :( Your blocking the front too much with it.
Yea, I have the Evo side plate coming. The current one has tie wrap on it everywhere. :lol: Good thing I put it on last night though. I passed about 4 cops on the way to work today. I usually don't pass any. |
Originally Posted by xwxspawnxwx
(Post 9711460)
Shouldve went with the side plate :( Your blocking the front too much with it.
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Originally Posted by Slee256
(Post 9712238)
I disagree, I can't stand the look of the front plate not being centered.
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Beautiful. Front looks WAAAY better now. Still, I've never been a fan of un-painted carbon, but to each their own.
Also, if you're already looking at spending ~300 on a skid plate, may as well fork over the extra 75 and go with this one: http://www.sspperformance.com/sub-ca...x/underpanels/ Offers greater coverage and some ventilation as well. Not to mention a sweet access panel for easy oil drain plug and filter access |
Excellent project!
I noticed that your planning on adding a Re-Q bass restoration unit. I can't tell you enough how much you don't want to do that. I just took my Re-Q out and before setting it down on anything, threw it in the garbage. It's noisy (not clean) a little finicky, and doesn't actually restore anything below around 40hz. I won't get started on the supposed power of the front versus sub channels... Instead, pick up an Audio Control LC2i. Crutchfield has them for 99.00. It does essentially the same thing, only the AC actually works, is clean and sends a nice high voltage signal to your amp(s). |
I got thne same wheels in black chrome.
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Originally Posted by Topdown
(Post 9712419)
Excellent project!
I noticed that your planning on adding a Re-Q bass restoration unit. I can't tell you enough how much you don't want to do that. I just took my Re-Q out and before setting it down on anything, threw it in the garbage. It's noisy (not clean) a little finicky, and doesn't actually restore anything below around 40hz. I won't get started on the supposed power of the front versus sub channels... Instead, pick up an Audio Control LC2i. Crutchfield has them for 99.00. It does essentially the same thing, only the AC actually works, is clean and sends a nice high voltage signal to your amp(s). Thanks for the heads up. Will look into it. |
Originally Posted by 03chi-town0Z
(Post 9712381)
Beautiful. Front looks WAAAY better now. Still, I've never been a fan of un-painted carbon, but to each their own.
Also, if you're already looking at spending ~300 on a skid plate, may as well fork over the extra 75 and go with this one: http://www.sspperformance.com/sub-ca...x/underpanels/ Offers greater coverage and some ventilation as well. Not to mention a sweet access panel for easy oil drain plug and filter access I don't like how they look on a lot of cars, though. I'm also looking into this body kit now. Just waiting for them to reply to my email. I really like it. It has an aggressive look to it :) http://www.ebay.com/itm/08-08-Mitsu-Lancer-GT-CNC-DURAFLEX-Body-Kit-/400208250849?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories &fits=Year%3A2009|Submodel%3ARalliart&vxp=mtr&hash =item5d2e4547e1 Let me know what you guys think. I hoping to order this and the BC Coilover this week :) |
Baller!
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Well I finally got a hold of the seller on ebay and that body kit is for the Evo X. Yet, it does not mention EVO X on the site at all. :( would have been an awesome body kit. Well, the search is on...
I really like the GTR wide body kit. http://www.body-kit.com/model_mit_lancer08bodykits.html I'm also going to try to get a hold of duraflex about that other body kit and it they can do a custom one. I will keep you guys update. I had to go out with the wife today so hopefully tomorrow I can order the coilovers. I'm also soooo tempted to get the borla exhaust. I might be a dead man then. |
Interested in what you do with the body kit. I'm looking for something to make the car wider
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I contacted them and for the GTR wide body kit and it will be $1,400 shipped to the houe. I really like how that body kit looks like. The seller has great reviews. I'm going to see if I can bring them down a little. ~Hope you guys like that body kit. I think it will be a very unique one to see on our cars. {thumbup}
You can also see almost the same body kit in their Evo X section in Black. I contacted Chris at MAP and got the BC Coilovers with extenders for$1034 shipped to the house. I also ordered the http://www.racinglineperformance.com/shop/pc/home.asp EVO X Front Endlinks $92.24 shipped. I'm planning to order the whiteline swaybars. I guess after I get all this installed it will be time to get a Borla Exhaust. lol... Man I can't wait.... |
Ok, I ordered the swaybars...
26mm Front and 24mm Rear Whiteline swaybars for a total of $371.66 Cheapest I could find. I was really surprised at the price. captwholesale (dot) com |
Swaybars, Endlinks, and BC Coilovers have arrived! Installation is this friday and allignement is on Saturday. I will be installing everything with a friend of mine! Best of luck to me. {thumbup} I have not ordered the Body Kit yet but will let everyone know once I do! I can't wait to get it but I want to do everything by sections and one step at a time.
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Originally Posted by Fuego
(Post 9866451)
Swaybars, Endlinks, and BC Coilovers have arrived! Installation is this friday and allignement is on Saturday. I will be installing everything with a friend of mine! Best of luck to me. {thumbup} I have not ordered the Body Kit yet but will let everyone know once I do! I can't wait to get it but I want to do everything by sections and one step at a time.
So the next step is my 30k mile service. I ordered AMSOIL for the oil, oil filter, power steering, brake fluids and anitfreeze. Then I can change my oil with my 15k mile service. {thumbup}{thumbup}{thumbup} DiaQueen LSD from MAP, Pestosin FFL-2(DiaQueen SSTF-1) saved me $110 getting if from RAI motorsports then getting the OEM, SSP Reusable Filter, Cabin air filter, drive belt, injen air filter and filter shield. Once that all comes in then it's time do do the 30k mile service. I will be ordering the wide body kit soon. Be patient, all this cost money to do. Current body kit is all messed up due to how low the car was and how it was installed. So I can't wait to get this done and of course the borla exhaust. |
Originally Posted by Fuego
(Post 9883110)
So everything was installed except for the front sway bar and the car is alligned! I love it. Car drives great esp when cornering. The car was about 4.5" from the ground and now it's 6.5" and I can get up my driveway and go places that I would usually scratch and scratch no more. Since the front sway bar is a major PITA I will pay my friend to install it at his shop when I get a chance. I have the rear swaybar on medium setting but I might go to the hard setting to see how I like it. I have not had a chance to mess with the dampners yet so everything is set to full soft.
So the next step is my 30k mile service. I ordered AMSOIL for the oil, oil filter, power steering, brake fluids and anitfreeze. Then I can change my oil with my 15k mile service. {thumbup}{thumbup}{thumbup} DiaQueen LSD from MAP, Pestosin FFL-2(DiaQueen SSTF-1) saved me $110 getting if from RAI motorsports then getting the OEM, SSP Reusable Filter, Cabin air filter, drive belt, injen air filter and filter shield. Once that all comes in then it's time do do the 30k mile service. I will be ordering the wide body kit soon. Be patient, all this cost money to do. Current body kit is all messed up due to how low the car was and how it was installed. So I can't wait to get this done and of course the borla exhaust. |
Because of seeing your evo, I am now considering getting that kind of color.:D
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Originally Posted by Jechttt
(Post 9883583)
Can't wait to get my bonus so I can order mine as well. Sounds great :)
Originally Posted by mikey2style
(Post 9883615)
Because of seeing your evo, I am now considering getting that kind of color.:D
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As another rotor glow Ralliart owner, it's great to see someone on here doing a build on a rotor glow ralliart. It helps me picture what I want to do with mine. Keep up the good work, its looking great.{thumbup}
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Originally Posted by Ralliator
(Post 9886090)
As another rotor glow Ralliart owner, it's great to see someone on here doing a build on a rotor glow ralliart. It helps me picture what I want to do with mine. Keep up the good work, its looking great.{thumbup}
:D I'm doing the full service soon and I will check all the how to's and things like that. I will add what I used here as a link and if anyone want any specific pictures let me know. I might do it this weekend of the next. All I need to order is the DiaQueen LSD but I also want to order the whiteline KDT909 Rear Diff Bushing. Need to call MAP because they would be the cheapest since most people charge like $20-30 for the shipping, the only thing is that they don't have the KDT909 on the website. I still have the front sway bar to get installed. Need to contact my friend who is a mechnic and see if he is able to do it. Might drive by his shop today. |
Ok, I'm just putting this out there because it gets me very upset when I see the following. "Man, I could have bought an X or GSR for the amount of money I spent on the mods for the ralliart."
I don't know about everyone else, but if your modding your ralliart, you will likely mod any of the other car. So, just to let you know, if you mod your air intake you that will most likely mod it on the X or GSR and so forth. So you still save money of the difference of the cars and maybe some of the mod parts, depending on what you get. I got the ralliart and I love it. I know if I had any other sports car I would be doing the same exact thing!!! |
Originally Posted by Fuego
(Post 9896444)
Thanks and welcome to the Rotor Glow. I love the color...
:D I'm doing the full service soon and I will check all the how to's and things like that. I will add what I used here as a link and if anyone want any specific pictures let me know. I might do it this weekend of the next. All I need to order is the DiaQueen LSD but I also want to order the whiteline KDT909 Rear Diff Bushing. Need to call MAP because they would be the cheapest since most people charge like $20-30 for the shipping, the only thing is that they don't have the KDT909 on the website. I called MAP and talked to Chris and the LSD and the KDT909 came out to $145 shipped. I'm always trying to get a deal somewhere. Almost everywhere else I found for those 2 would have came out to $160+ |
Body Kit...
Ok, here is a new one i'm looking at http://www.scorpionkits.com/gallery3...g2_itemId=4137 Thoughts. I think I like this more than the last one I posted. I already emailed them waiting for information on it! |
Here these are a good start to tuning:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ec...-tune-evo.html https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ut-serial.html https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/09...ng-tuning.html As you come across something you want to know more about, do a search (use the X sub-section). |
Originally Posted by sstevojr
(Post 9900636)
Here these are a good start to tuning:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ec...-tune-evo.html https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ut-serial.html https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/09...ng-tuning.html As you come across something you want to know more about, do a search (use the X sub-section). |
This might sound funny, but whenever I have a hard time visualizing what I'm trying to do, I refer back to this one (really helpful for MIVEC):
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/engine1.htm |
Crud! The dealer won't install my swaybar. Well, then they don't need my money. I won't go to them for nothing then! I have to go to a friend to do it. I do have a question, when doing the work on the steering, is it possible for the airbag to go off? That was one of his concerns and the other one was that I might have to get it realigned.
Also, I got the Wideband bung installed in my DP and will be installing the wideband this weekend! :D It only cost me $30 for the installation and we put it at 9'oclock because it would cost more to do it at 3'oclock or 12'oclock. |
Those instructions are for the wrong car. Find ones for the X. The thing to be really careful with is that you reattach the steering exactly the way it was prior to disconnection. That part is kind like the fulcrum for the steering; being off by 1mm equals a couple/few inches at the wheels. I think this is the info you want: http://www.hotchkis.net/mitsubishi_e..._sway_bar.html
As for the o2 sensor, so long as it's between 9 and 3 your ok (although 10 to 2 is better). The whole point is to NOT have it between 3 and 9 due to condensation build up. |
Originally Posted by sstevojr
(Post 9904712)
Those instructions are for the wrong car. Find ones for the X. The thing to be really careful with is that you reattach the steering exactly the way it was prior to disconnection. That part is kind like the fulcrum for the steering; being off by 1mm equals a couple/few inches at the wheels. I think this is the info you want: http://www.hotchkis.net/mitsubishi_e..._sway_bar.html
As for the o2 sensor, so long as it's between 9 and 3 your ok (although 10 to 2 is better). The whole point is to NOT have it between 3 and 9 due to condensation build up. Hopefully by this weekend I start logging :D |
Just a heads-up, make sure you route those wires VERY carefully across the exhaust if you've got the bung @ 9-10 o clock position. There have been a few "WTF just happened?" moments posted on here when somebody burned through o2 sensor wires. More commonly for the OEM sensors causing the dash to go "christmas tree", but still, you don't want to end up having to buy another sensor due to a careless oversight.
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Originally Posted by 03chi-town0Z
(Post 9905271)
Just a heads-up, make sure you route those wires VERY carefully across the exhaust if you've got the bung @ 9-10 o clock position. There have been a few "WTF just happened?" moments posted on here when somebody burned through o2 sensor wires. More commonly for the OEM sensors causing the dash to go "christmas tree", but still, you don't want to end up having to buy another sensor due to a careless oversight.
I was able to wire it with where the other o2 sensor sits so the cables should not burn :D Hopefully this week I will have time to try and log :)) |
Originally Posted by sstevojr
(Post 9904712)
Those instructions are for the wrong car. Find ones for the X. The thing to be really careful with is that you reattach the steering exactly the way it was prior to disconnection. That part is kind like the fulcrum for the steering; being off by 1mm equals a couple/few inches at the wheels. I think this is the info you want: http://www.hotchkis.net/mitsubishi_e..._sway_bar.html
As for the o2 sensor, so long as it's between 9 and 3 your ok (although 10 to 2 is better). The whole point is to NOT have it between 3 and 9 due to condensation build up. The link to down load the instructions does not work :( I emailed them about the link and I will search to see if I can find another guide :( |
Originally Posted by Fuego
(Post 9908908)
The link to down load the instructions does not work :( I emailed them about the link and I will search to see if I can find another guide :(
Try this one.. http://www.hotchkis.net/_uploaded_files/22440.pdf |
Originally Posted by csra09
(Post 9908976)
Awesome!!! That linked worked for me :D So I been reading and now I got my EvoScan up and running. I'm going to try to log RPM, Load(Fuel), Boost, IPW, IDC, Knock Sum, Timing Advance, TSP, IAT, MAT, ECT, WGDC, Active WGDC Correction and LC-1 AFR. HAHAHAHA Opps My laptop does not have a serial port. lol... Got to get a serial to USB then. |
So I uploaded the new 2.7 Maps and love them. Also, should be ordering the serial to USB so I can do some logging. I should be getting the body kit hopefully next month to order.
Had a member email me asking me information on the new rom and I gave them the following: The new Maps came in for tuning the car 2.7 and its amazing. Putting the new map on your car is really easy. Check out https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/09...f-dummies.html read part 1 and 2. https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/09...t-basemap.html this is where you get the 2.7 The other day my computer froze during the process of flashing the ECU. I restarted my computer and redid the process and had no issues. It's really hard to damage the ECU by following the steps. Also, any questions just mail me here. Once u install the program you connect the openport to the laptop. Then open ecuflash program. Connect it to the car. Put the car on the on position and then hit the read ECU and download your ROM to your computer and email it to yourself so you have it. If you can do that, then everything is working properly! Don't worry about your car going hay wire. It's just going through it's process. So now that u got it to read your ECU and download it, you should have no issue with it loading a new ROM. I always like to read ECU before I flash it. Once all that is done then you open your ROM for your car (2009 USDM/CADM and the octane you use and mods). I have the boost pill so I use 2009 USDM/CADM - 91 oct - BoostPill - V2.7 and then Write to ECU. You will see your car go hay wire again and then it will all be done. You will have the engine light on when it's all done After any EcuFlash operations, the EcuFlash can clear it... just run this procedure: Select "ECU" -> "Clear DTCs". Then press "OK" on EcuFlash and BAM you should be all done when it's finished with the process. I highly recommend getting a OBD Extender 5' because your left leg will hit the Openport and you will prefer $20-30 instead of $180 or open it up and fix the mini USB connector which is what I had to do :( |
If you don't want to order the usb to serial and do standalone logging, You can just use a 2.5mm stereo jack and solder it onto the serial output of the LC-1. I find it easier to log without a laptop sliding around my front seat. Just an option that I find easier and cheaper.
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If you do decide to use serial to usb.This is currently what I use with my AEM WB. I tried the soldering to the pins but had bad luck with pins in the cable breaking..somebody stepped on it etc. So I picked up a 9-Position Female Crimp D-Sub Connector from radioshack($3) much easier and secure fit than soldering for me...
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2103806# This is also the serial cable currently using with windows 7 ($20) http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2292430 |
^+1 on the Radio Shack parts.
When I was setting my WB (and incorrectly thought I had to use serial) I got the parts from RS. |
Originally Posted by TurtleRA
(Post 9916230)
If you don't want to order the usb to serial and do standalone logging, You can just use a 2.5mm stereo jack and solder it onto the serial output of the LC-1. I find it easier to log without a laptop sliding around my front seat. Just an option that I find easier and cheaper.
Originally Posted by csra09
(Post 9922695)
If you do decide to use serial to usb.This is currently what I use with my AEM WB. I tried the soldering to the pins but had bad luck with pins in the cable breaking..somebody stepped on it etc. So I picked up a 9-Position Female Crimp D-Sub Connector from radioshack($3) much easier and secure fit than soldering for me...
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2103806# This is also the serial cable currently using with windows 7 ($20) http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2292430
Originally Posted by sstevojr
(Post 9923783)
^+1 on the Radio Shack parts.
When I was setting my WB (and incorrectly thought I had to use serial) I got the parts from RS. Ok, so I get the connector from Radio Shack and then plug the 2.5mm into where? of the d-sub connector. Then I plug the 2.5 into the Laptop? Sorry I'm a little lost on the whole setup and connection process. |
Originally Posted by Fuego
(Post 9900154)
Body Kit...
Ok, here is a new one i'm looking at http://www.scorpionkits.com/gallery3...g2_itemId=4137 Thoughts. I think I like this more than the last one I posted. I already emailed them waiting for information on it! I think the email is the correct ones! It's the one I used on the top of the link. |
Originally Posted by Fuego
(Post 9927322)
Ok, so I get the connector from Radio Shack and then plug the 2.5mm into where? of the d-sub connector. Then I plug the 2.5 into the Laptop? Sorry I'm a little lost on the whole setup and connection process.
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Originally Posted by TurtleRA
(Post 9928157)
You can just plug the 2.5mm straight into your tactrix, this is me assuming you have one. Then you can standalone log everything you want. If you don't have a tactrix, then you have to go the other method, serial to usb, which would then plug into your laptop and then log with evoscan etc....Hope this clears some of it up.
Yes it does, and yes I have a tactrix. The other part was this "2.5mm stereo jack and solder it onto the serial output of the LC-1"? what pin do I solder it to? |
Well this is the confusing bit, sort of. On the 2.5mm jack there are 3 points of contact. You need to solder the ground write to the part closest to the middle of the jack. The serial wire goes on the middle connection point. The easiest is to google an image of a stereo jack to get a better idea of what I mean. The hardest part is soldering the wire on to the tiny 2.5mm jack. There is also an image on the wiki page for stand alone logging if that also helps. I'm sure this is all clear as mud now.
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Originally Posted by Fuego
(Post 9900154)
Body Kit...
Ok, here is a new one i'm looking at http://www.scorpionkits.com/gallery3...g2_itemId=4137 Thoughts. I think I like this more than the last one I posted. I already emailed them waiting for information on it! "Hello, The pirce for the d-sport bodykits is usd1850 and without shipment cost.That is include front bumper,front ganard,front fender,side skirt,rear fender,rear bumper.The bodykits is hard to install,especially rear fender. Thank you wklim" Just to expensive and it's hard to install. Then who knows how much to ship!!! I think i'm going with the one from accolade. MITSUBISHI LANCER 2008 - 2011 GTR BODY KIT CONVERSION is GTR kit is USD 1450. Shipped to the house.
Originally Posted by TurtleRA
(Post 9928494)
Well this is the confusing bit, sort of. On the 2.5mm jack there are 3 points of contact. You need to solder the ground write to the part closest to the middle of the jack. The serial wire goes on the middle connection point. The easiest is to google an image of a stereo jack to get a better idea of what I mean. The hardest part is soldering the wire on to the tiny 2.5mm jack. There is also an image on the wiki page for stand alone logging if that also helps. I'm sure this is all clear as mud now.
Great! I found it! http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/f...ad.php?t=21201 Same as a Camera one. http://www.carlmcmillan.com/serial_cable_pinout.htm http://www.db9-pinout.com/ Now it's easy to do. Going to check out that radio shack one since It's close to the house. Thanks everyone for the help on this. Hopefully I can log this weekend! {thumbup}{thumbup}{thumbup} |
So, after along talk with someone at driven by style (Craig) this is what I found out. The front bumper for a EVO X will fit our car as long as we get the EXO X fenders. Now for the Rear, you need one for the lancer!!! So if you can find a good rear bumper that will work then you can get and EVO X front bumper and Fenders. If you go to their website he said this would work.
2008-2012 Mitsubishi Evolution X GT Concept Fenders : 104641 2008-2012 Mitsubishi Evolution X GT Concept Kit : 104648 2008-2011 Mitsubishi Lancer Evo X Look Rear Bumper: 106955 Or Match is with the Rear Bumper setup of this: http://www.body-kit.com/lan_08xgtr.html Then I just need to get any side skirts I like. It's great that now I have more options. Just thought I would share what I found! I really like how aggressive that fron bumper looks!!! |
Well you don't need a serial cable at all, you can just go to radio shack and get a 2.5mm stereo jack. For me, I had an old cell phone headset that I did not use any more and it had a 2.5mm stereo jack. So I just removed the end and soldered on my own wires, then used a butt connector to the wideband serial output and just grounded the other wire to the chassis. Then you just plug it into your tactrix when ever you want to log. Also, from your links, you want to solder the wire to the serial connection on the middle (ring), and the ground goes to the base (sleeve). Hope this clears it all up.
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Originally Posted by TurtleRA
(Post 9931460)
Well you don't need a serial cable at all, you can just go to radio shack and get a 2.5mm stereo jack. For me, I had an old cell phone headset that I did not use any more and it had a 2.5mm stereo jack. So I just removed the end and soldered on my own wires, then used a butt connector to the wideband serial output and just grounded the other wire to the chassis. Then you just plug it into your tactrix when ever you want to log. Also, from your links, you want to solder the wire to the serial connection on the middle (ring), and the ground goes to the base (sleeve). Hope this clears it all up.
What I just realized is that with the http://www.tactrix.com/index.php?pag...mart&Itemid=53 I don't need a serial adaptor, which is the one I have. Just use a 2.5mm on both ends, and connect it to the Tactrix and bam ready to rock and roll! Thanks for all the help guys! |
Bodykit Update!
I working with Driven by Style on this with Craig. I think the outcome it going to be sweet! It will be a wide body kit but it's pieces from 3 different kits to make it work. Working with a body shop, insurance, and Craig on this. My current kit is fully damaged (and the body has hail damaged, ugh) and the insurance is covering to get it fixed(guess it all is going to work out at then end) and I will be covering the difference to get what I want. :) Once I have more info, I will post so you can see what the plans are for the body kit. |
Logging,
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/09...t-basemap.html "If you would like to log: Use EvoScan v2.6 Full : http://www.limitless.co.nz/ Download, install Once in EvoScan: 1. Select "OpenPort 2.0 (J2534/CAN/EvoX)" radio button 2. Select "CAN 2006+/EvoX" check box 3. Under the "Select ECU" Drop-down, select "mode23 USA RA EVOX" Check off only these parameters to log: Throttle Posn 2-Byte RPM Load (Fuel) TimingAdv Knock Sum PSIG ActiveWGDC ActiveWGDCC (Wastegate Duty Cycle correction) Intake Air Temp Manifold Air Temp Coolant Temp And if you have a wideband, connect it to your laptop and check off the wideband logging in EvoScan. The best logs would be a full RPM sweep of 3rd and/or 4th gear on a level road. Log the car in Sport Mode so it won't shift on you." Ok, So I have everything ready and drive the car and try to do a 2500 rpm to redline on 3rd gear or 4th gear. Probably easier to do in 3rd due to speed limit. lol. I'm getting ready to do this and wanted to make sure everything is in place. So if anyone can help, what will come after this? I get home and I want to check to see how everything went! What do I do? |
So many things going on. lol...
This project is on the move! ok, so I think i'm coming to a choice, either I go borla or Evo X turbo. lol.... I can get the turbo ($400)with all the hose i need and the stock DP for $80 or I can get the ETS DP for $300. Would it be better to get the ETS or should I just get the stock DP? I'm still searching for the exhaust manifold :D |
Get a 3" dp and hfc/tp. If you are going to do all the work of replacing the turbo, only makes sense to upgrade them as well, otherwise you will just do it later. Also look into something for the o2 housing, either a widemouth dp or a replacement o2 housing (like the meagan one).
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Thanks! I have someone who has all the parts and is parting out on everything on the Evo X, so I'm trying to get a deal on it. Even if I get a couple of parts at a time, it's fine with me. I think the turbo with all the connecters except for the feeder part for $400 is a great deal and probably another $80 to ship.
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I will be going to the body shop to work with them and see what are we looking at cost wise to do the bodykit install. Will update this portion tomorrow.
I'm looking at $1,600 for the complete wide body kit and I'm just waiting for the price of the wind splitter. Craig at Driven By Style has been extremely helpful. He gets tons of emails from me daily and is very quick on replying and getting information to me quickly. This is the email I got from him today when asking about installation and pricing. "Yeah this is actually pretty simple. Everything is a bolt on except for the quarter panel overlays will need some amount of work when getting them ready for install. You can do them a few different ways. 1) go for the race look and have the rear panels installed with rivets and add a rubber gasket behind the panels so they dont rub the stock metal panels. 2) go for a permanent look and have the rear panels installed with panel bonding adhesive 3) go for a seamless oem look and install the rear panels with panel bonding adhesive and then mold the seams with fiberglass and body filler. (would require the rear quarterpanels to be painted on the car so to make sure everything looks right the entire a to c pillar would be sprayed and then there is a break line at the bottom by the side skirt.) If you can afford it option 3 would be the way to go because you can have the shop cut out the rear sheet metal in the wheel wells and actually space your wheels out wide and not have clearance issues. The new quarter panel would actually be a functioning wide body if done this way. The front bumper, rear bumper, side skirts, fenders, rear add ons are all bolt ons. Every fiberglass part will need to be test fitted first then pulled back off to be prepped for paint. Every millimeter of surface needs to be sanded and any pin holes, gel coat chips, spider cracks etc would be spot filled with glazing body filler. Once all parts are sanded and body worked then they are primered with high build primer, block sanded a final time and then sealed and painted. Price will vary from shop to shop as well as by area that you live in. I would check around a few shops and make sure you are comparing shops that do this kind of work not just collision repair. If you run into any tech questions or anything like that I am always available to assist just shoot me an email. I should have the pricing on the splitter shortly just waiting for a call back. Thanks Craig-" |
Ok so I went to the shop and this is what they told me. That a job like this to be done professionally will be about $2500+ It will depend on how much prep work the body kit needs before it is installed. I'm thinking it will be like $3,500 as I want the whole car repainted with House of Kollor - Kandy Orange - UK08 Tangerine. Cost about $1200 for just all the paint stuff and that's why I think it will be like $3,500.
I am really getting excited about the project! |
let me know how it turns out because thats how much my shop is charging me the same price as well. I just didnt go through with the project yet kinda worried about it looking out of place. GOOD LUCK!
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Originally Posted by allennnz
(Post 9956776)
let me know how it turns out because thats how much my shop is charging me the same price as well. I just didnt go through with the project yet kinda worried about it looking out of place. GOOD LUCK!
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So I want more power. lol. So It looks like i'm heading to the EVO X turbo. Seems like you can get a deal in the price for it.
So here is what I'm looking at once I'm done with the body kit project. Evo X intercooler, turbo AMS downpipe and HFC (might even get the AMS intercooler) COBB EVO X Hard Pipe Kit and work with them with a air intake that will work with out removing the battery. ( I believe someone else was able to get that done). Borla Exhaust. I just like how the Hard Pipe kit looks inside the engine bay. Very Clean looking. 1. Borla Exhaust 2. HFC 3. Intercooler 4. I will probably get the rest around the same time unless I get a great deal on a turbo. If' I do this, I believe the Evo X UICP and LICP should work with out having to change anything? Lol yea maybe in a year or two i'll upgrade SST clutch pads but I just can't do everything to fast. Wife will kill me. |
So I was looking at the brake information and did wanted to know if I went with the Evo X size tires, can I get Evo X rotors and things like that?
Ok, So I read a lot of forums on brakes and things like that. The AMS seems like a good price. The Brembo is way to expensive. So I'm just wondering if there is any way to get or use the Evo X setup. maybe even change the hub? I don't know. Just brain storming here. lol. |
Eric (NFSLancerRA) fabricated a bracket set that would allow you to mount big ol' Chevy Vette C6 calipers on the RA, but there has been a halt in production for now. That may be the way to go as the cost is ridiculously less than any other bbk out there and everyone who has done the swap swears by it. If you're not in a hurry, it could be worth waiting for.
As far as an intake for the X swap that keeps your factory battery location, CBRD makes one you can see here: http://cbrd.mybigcommerce.com/cbrd-r...-turbocharger/ |
Unfortunately no. I've tried ever possibly configuration to get an X caliper on, it just wont work. The bolting holes don't line up, but they also overlap (can't use a bracket). The hub is swapable but the the calipers don't bolt on to it (I tried that route as well). You need to either find a caliper that is roughly the same size with completely different bolt holes (like NFS did) and make a bracket, or buy a pre-made kit. I'm going Stop Tech.
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Originally Posted by 03chi-town0Z
(Post 9968786)
Eric (NFSLancerRA) fabricated a bracket set that would allow you to mount big ol' Chevy Vette C6 calipers on the RA, but there has been a halt in production for now. That may be the way to go as the cost is ridiculously less than any other bbk out there and everyone who has done the swap swears by it. If you're not in a hurry, it could be worth waiting for.
As far as an intake for the X swap that keeps your factory battery location, CBRD makes one you can see here: http://cbrd.mybigcommerce.com/cbrd-r...-turbocharger/ I was looking for something like that but a shorter RAM so I don't have to relocate battery. I think it will look really clean that way.
Originally Posted by spider21
(Post 9527089)
Thought I would share the completed engine bay look after moving my battery to the hatch
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/me...tery-hatch.jpg
Originally Posted by sstevojr
(Post 9968790)
Unfortunately no. I've tried ever possibly configuration to get an X caliper on, it just wont work. The bolting holes don't line up, but they also overlap (can't use a bracket). The hub is swapable but the the calipers don't bolt on to it (I tried that route as well). You need to either find a caliper that is roughly the same size with completely different bolt holes (like NFS did) and make a bracket, or buy a pre-made kit. I'm going Stop Tech.
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The CBRD option is a SRI that allows for stock battery location on the RA. It was designed specifically for that purpose. You can pm CBRD on here for more info
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Originally Posted by Fuego
(Post 9967890)
So I was looking at the brake information and did wanted to know if I went with the Evo X size tires, can I get Evo X rotors and things like that?
Ok, So I read a lot of forums on brakes and things like that. The AMS seems like a good price. The Brembo is way to expensive. So I'm just wondering if there is any way to get or use the Evo X setup. maybe even change the hub? I don't know. Just brain storming here. lol. |
Originally Posted by 03chi-town0Z
(Post 9970406)
The CBRD option is a SRI that allows for stock battery location on the RA. It was designed specifically for that purpose. You can pm CBRD on here for more info
The Intake comes with the filter. I wish they had a picture of the filter with the intake because it will make it easier to see that it is complete. I was wondering what else I had to get with it. Thanks 03chi-town0Z for the help!
Originally Posted by NFSLancerRA
(Post 9970434)
So, you can't swap the hubs. You might be able to get away with using Evo VIII calipers, but there will be some pad overlap. I am working on bringing the kit back. It shouldn't be more than a few weeks until that is complete.
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Originally Posted by Fuego
(Post 9970572)
NFS sign me up! Just wondering what is everything that the kit will have?
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Originally Posted by NFSLancerRA
(Post 9970606)
Brackets, Hardware, Evo X StopTech Rotors, Lines, Kore3 Calipers, and Hawk HP+ Pads. The goal is $1,000 starting price for the whole kit. If I buy rotors in bulk, I may be able to provide better rotors at a cheaper cost than anyone could by buying them individually.
New update. I'm ordering the new body kit next week. I'm also trying to get the Evoscan GPS(still reading more information on it), Borla Exhaust, the HFC, and Intercooler. After reading about the RAD Turbo I'm very intrested but for now I'm going to add everything else I need except for the Turbo and DP till I make my decision about Evo X or RAD Turbo. Seems like I can make the same power. Either way I will be doing all the work myself so I'm not worried about labor cost or even the price of the parts. I just want something that works for me! What I like about the RAD is I can slowly upgrade everything and then just slap it in when I feel ready and max out the potential of the Stock Turbo. With the Evo X on I have to do a few piece at once. |
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