Well I have never professed to be a tuner, so I don't really have any interest in debating this topic with those that feel their knowledge of this turbo mod indicates it will require upgraded fuel injectors. If you decide to go with this turbo mod and either you or your tuner feel you need to upgrade your injectors or fuel pump, then perhaps you should.

On the other hand I can report that I was told by the tuner that tuned my car the injectors were never even close to their full duty cycle, and in his opinion there was no need to even consider upgrading the fuel pump or injectors on my car. But then for the record, I also made it clear I never had any intention of simply posting the most impressive dyno numbers possible, as my intention was always to keep the tune well within the conservative limits of the TC SST transmission so nothing in the tranny will ever GO BANG...

 

You would DESTROY a STOCK Evo in a head to head straight line race with those kinds of numbers.

 

Yes, just a tune on a stock RA is enough to hang with a stock Evo (stock tune).

With these numbers you would annihilate a stock tune Evo.

 

292/300 on a properly calibrated mustang dyno sounds about right-

we have made 290/295 with STOCK catback and Intake on our dyno with the RAD-

I lost about 22whp/20 wtq putting the stock intake and catback back on!

cb

 

So you made 312 /315 with an intake and CBE? Did you get to dyno it with a TBE?

 

Any updates as to whether the injectors needed upgrading? And any issues that have come up with the rad? I just got mine and am getting an install and tune very soon but want to know if I should upgrade the injectors at the same time...

 

Why don't you just ask Chad at CBRD?

 

Nope. Just don't buy the UR fuel pump kit. The stock injectors should do the trick, just fine. Blaq-Ops is a good way to go. I will be going with the Boomba Racing kit.

 

I will say that the RAD is very responsive. I have encountered a few who are on the fence about a larger single-scroll turbocharger. The "lag" is almost non-existent.

After I replace a few problem parts and have the transmission re-calibrated, I will re-visit my build thread and update with more accurate information. The game of diagnosing problems after the fact is not an easy one for people like me who are new to the turbocharging game.

On hindsight, there are a few things which I wish that I would have had the foresight to have done before installing the RAD (I was in a rush to get the new unit on the car, and that was unfortunate).

First of all, I should have installed a new Cosworth head-gasket and ARP hardware. I would recommend doing this for peace of mind. I could have done this had my fuel-pump not taken a dump on me and required new (very expensive) injectors. However, I do like the ID1000's. For anyone looking to run E-85, go with Injector Dynamics. I have not had one single problem with them.

Second of all, I should have purchased Evo X spark-plugs, which are a few degrees cooler than our stock pieces (if the information that I have been getting from various sources is correct).

Third, not replacing the DP, cat, and exhaust was a huge waste of potential. There isn't a better time to do this than when the system is apart, from the get-go. I would recommend the UR long DP. Although their fuel-pump kit didn't work out, this part is very nice-looking. I will report back after I get the thing on the car.

Last, I should have given the transmission some help while the car was on the lift. I had plans to install a transmission cooler, and that fell through. At the very least, your transmission fluid has got to be replaced. That Diaqueen crap is designed to be used with your stock friction plates and materials. If you have ever seen one of our stock clutches, you will notice that the amount of inorganic/organic material on the actual plates is somewhat lacking. If you plan to run the car harder and/or increase the friction coefficient (with either added surface area or higher grade friction materials), you will need to find more appropriate fluid. Look around on the interwebz. The answers that you seek are out there (though, they may not come from this country alone). I also wish that the ability to increase the pressure within the transmission had been an option, at that time. This kind of thing has been done in automatic transmissions for years.

 

By the way, if Chad doesn't get back to you right away, feel free to send me or someone at Spec-Ops a PM about the RAD. I ordered mine through them. Others have gone this route, as well. It takes a few days to get one in. The intercooler is definitely something that I would recommend, too. You will be blown away with how well it fits and how big it really is.

If anyone is planning on coming to Boost for ***** in November in Orlando, I will be there to show off a variety of parts for this platform. I know that at least one person from Spec-Ops will be there, as well. Don't be afraid to ask about it. I am more than happy to show people what the unit looks like and how the car performs with it in.

 

Greetings:
Having done this mod myself a few months ago, here is my advice based on my experience.

If your performance goal is only around 300-320AWHP/300-320AWTQ and no more (like mine was) then the CBRD modified (actually all work is reportedly done by Blouch under agreement with CBRD) RAD turbo will work very nicely. This mod is essentially nothing more than replacing the stock 15T compressor wheel on your little TD04HL snail with a larger 19T compressor wheel made from billet. I also had GrimmSpeed port and polish and ceramic coat my TD04HL after I got it back from CBRD to try and increase the efficiency and get every bit of performance possible out of the little snail. By all accounts that extra effort probably helped the little turbo produce a slight increase in power, but the true benefit would be difficult to quantify.

Stock injectors will work perfectly fine for this application, and mine were not even close to full duty cycle when my car was run on the dyno for testing and tuning. But remember this is a very small turbo that can't be expected to produce the flow needed to make more than about 300-320HP when your exhaust and boost cooling is properly optimized. All the fuel injectors and fuel pumps in the world are not going to change the reality that this is a very little turbo, and it is limited in its flow capacity by the small physical size.

I would not recommend using the Cobb Protune for this application as when my turbo was upgraded, the Cobb Pro Tune software had a serious glitch, and the tuner was not able to adjust the torque limit tables properly. This is (or at least was a few months ago) a known problem with the Cobb Pro Tune software.

If your performance goal is higher than 320AWHP, I would consider upgrading to an EVO X style turbo, and the associated modifications required to accomodate this change. Personally I would conisder either the FP Green for street use or even possibly the FP Red or Black for competition use, or possibly the CBRD marketed EVO X turbo upgrades.

Good luck, hope this helps.

 

RideSober what type of dyno were those numbers made on?

 

Is there a reason you mention head gasket? Or just something you thought of?

I ask because I noticed that the Works Ralliart "cooling system was compromised" during their 25hrs of Thunderhill race and I was just curious if this was mere coincidence or maybe something that could become potentially more of a regular concern for those of us pushing the car harder and harder.

 

I did see that. I have also seen a few X's with blown head-gaskets. It is definitely something to consider.

 

Hey thanks for the help and advice! Looks like I may have a bit to do before installing this as it would be easier to get a downpipe, cat and head gasket done all at once...