Thanks Chad. I'm waiting to receive all the parts. I'll post back up once I can take a look at everything. I agree is most likely NOT the turbo and another bad HG/valve situation.

 

If you are able to run supersport line pressure, Stock clutches can handle whatever the stock engine block can handle.

 

Hmm. So 360/360 is max for sport pressure but with a SS reflash you're saying that we can handle more?

 

Power is going to peak at the max flowrate of the turbo and stay flat from there.

No disrespect to the RAD as it is an excellent turbo for what it was intended for (the same or slightly better flow rate of a stock X turbo with less expense than doing an X turbo swap) but it just does not have the flow rate to continue building power up top on a camed motor.

Depending on the cam profile and tuning you may be able to get some serious torque gains in the midrange, but i think it will be flat up top.

Hope it all stays together till your ready to tear it down... why not contact Chand now and see if you can send the turbo in to be looked at during the build?

 

oh for sure. There are other things to consider when using the RAD on a stroked motor. It'll run out of steam sooner due to the higher breathing capacity of the larger displacement. However, because of the larger displacement you theoretically shouldn't need as much boost to reach the same power output at the top end. You'll loose out in the HP/L up top, but with that loss you'll gain in the bottom end torque.


Either way, I'm interested in finding out what's at fault here. I've a spare TD04HL-15t that I putting serious considerations into sending out for upgrade next year...

 

The Rad Lite is only staying on until the spring. I'll have the results for a cam added for future reference.

 

Well, remember how I said I'd been having some white smoke at warm startup too? Tonight I got enough out of to make visibility damn near zero across 6 lanes of road and about 1/4 mile down the road. Hope this doesn't happen to you, I'd park it and not touch it til you can actually build it.

 

That's what I did. I haven't driven it in 3 weeks. My parts will all be here next week...

 

Good job, and congrats on the build. I don't have the $$ for a turbo right now, but am researching engine builds. figure i may as well do it now.

 

The head is a good place to start as stock internals can hold pretty well unbored and >30psi

 

The moment of truth is tomorrow. My builder/mechanic will be looking everything over. He doesn't think it's the head gasket and more likely a few other culprits! I'll keep everyone posted.

I will be however installing the BC Stage II cam/AEM intake nonetheless, I may hold off on the head/valvetrain work until the spring when I am doing a full engine build (minus the crank which turns out can hold about 500hp!).

 

My guess is that your PCV is not working properly.

 

Well, that might be one problem and could explain the leaking from the oil pan.

He looked further, leaking from oil pan and head....definitely at least the head gasket and something like the PVC.

Either way, since I have to open the whole thing up might as well build it properly! Officially going in:

-BC OEM Size intake/exhaust valves
-BC Theta valve guides
-BC single springs
-BC titanium retainers
-BC 87mm head gasket
-BC Stage II 272 spec cams
-ARP head studs
-SSP Intake Manifold Teflon Plenum Gasket Kit
-AEM Ralliart Intake

 

Can't wait to see the results. I will also be install cams in the next two weeks or so.

 

If you didnt already get a AEM intake, PM me. Mine will be for sale soon once I can take pics.