Last week in traffic my car randomly shut off and threw a few codes. Firstly it said engine overheating stop safely, then the asc service light. The car wasn't actually overheating and temp was right at halfway where it normally is. Earlier last week i installed the X fmic with agency power uicp and the ultimate racing intake. I also have an ultimate racing catback with a custom test pipe. I was going to get my tune over this past weekend but i ended up having these issues with the car not even starting up after this. Towed the car to my shop and had them read the codes. The only 2 codes it threw were p1870 and p1871. I wasn't able to clear the codes thru an obd2 scanner nor with evoscan. The odd thing was my battery was running at 8 volts and the second i turn the car on, the radiator fans are blowing like crazy. I tried charging the battery and then using evoscan to clear the code again but still nothing. Currently I'm putting the car back to complete stock to bring to the dealer. Anyone have any insight on what the issue could be and a fix instead of taking the car to the dealer? I've checked the maf sensor, the coolant temperature, all hoses and clamps, and even tried resetting the ecu by disconnecting the battery. Would it just be the trans in this case? I only had the parts installed for a few days and was expecting to get my tune right around the same time i finishedinstalling the fmic, piping, and intake

 

is there any kind of tune on the vehicle? I'd triple check whatever work you did and remove the intake if there isn't a tune.

Also if your shop has a professional grade scan tool not evoscan/generic they should of been able to pull codes from the modules related to your warning lights. Do they still have the car or are you trying to fix this yourself?

1870 and 1871 are "Engine torque signal abnormality & aps system (signal abnormality)"

 

If you turn the car on (w/o turning th engine over) and the radiator fans are blowing it means you bricked your ecu. You will need to bench flash it.

I hate to say it, but what the hell are you doing driving around with all those parts on w/o a tune?!? This is a big boy car, step up to the plate or get out the game.

P1870/1 is the standard post flash "tcu is not talking to the ecu" code. If you got it w/o having flashed the ecu, it went into self perserve mode. If there is less than 12volts from the battery while trying to crank, it throws itself into self protect mode.

1)Get new battery
2)Pull the ecu and bench flash (you can't clear codes on a bricked ecu)
3)Get ATLEAST a base tune, their are free ones on this forum for a reason

GL

 

Yeah I had the parts installed on wednesday and it happened on friday. I was scheduled for my tune on Saturday so it's not like i was trying to delay the tune. The car is at the shop still and stock everything now. I'll have them pull the ecu and bench flash it tomorrow hopefully.

 

As long as it's there ask them to do a compression check (I'd be halfway to a heart attack right about now).

 

I'm curious as to how the ECU would brick it self in this situation. limp mode usually goes away with a code reset. If he didn't flash his ecu then how does this happen? Other than shorting pins or something like that.

 

If the battery voltage drops, the car can't control the crank (sensor) and cams (sensor), and goes into self preserve mode. Not saying I've ever heard of this during a commute, but it's supposed to prevent the car from cranking over at all.
Something must of shorted out? But FOR SURE the radiator fan is due to bricking an ecu (don't ask how many times I heard it last Saturday alone )

Also, I just re-read OP's post, his car "randomly shut off and threw a few codes. Firstly it said engine overheating stop safely, then the asc service light." That isn't limp mode, that's a dead car, hence the being towed part (yeah that's happened to me several times as well, I'm out of control someone stop me!)

 

yeah def a bricked ecu............. i should know cos i dont it last week but was due to a fart in re-flashing it. ( first time in 20+ flashes). Fans stayed on and the ecu would not respond to evoscan. I removed the ecu and took it to a tune house (very well respected) and and hour later it was good as new.

Take it to a dealership there gonna rape you with a pineapple

 

Got everything stock back on the car. Just tried using the scanner to see what codes would pop up and of the few times we did run the codes got a couple of diff ones. Now the only 3 that are consistently popping up are u0100 for engine can timeout, c1617 awc can system, u0431 etacs can message. The radiator fans still come on though. Unfortunately my friend who's tactrix I borrowed was not around today and the shop said one of his guys might be able to bring one over to the shop. Turns out they had the 1.3 tactrix cable and I had to leave the shop before I could get my hands on the 2.0 from my friend who's I borrowed initially. So waiting on the cable to bench the ecu now. Will do a compression test tomorrow too.

 

1.3? What do they work on, scoobie-doo's??

 

Lol it was a vdub owners cable

 

New battery on hand, tactrix coming in tomorrow. Can't wait to have my car back on the road. Hope that does it.

 

Also i was wondering where to find the 2012 stock rom? Can i just use the stock gst tune with no boost pill or upgrades for flashing?

 

http://norcalmotorsports.org/users/b...EVO/tech/ROMs/
You need to bench flash, don't forget that.

 

Benched the ecu and everything still exactly the same :/ fans still on, and all the same warning lights