Hey guys I recently discovered that if I look up the maintenance schedule online via googling Mitsubishi maintenance schedule and looking up my car, It says mobil1 full synthetic for 2011 and below and non synthetic for 2012 and above. I know pretty much everyone here is going to tell me using conventional is retarded, but I thought I'd ask anyways to verify.

*note* My first 2 oil changes I went to a dealer, then I said **** it and took it to some shop. I don't know what they put in and the last 2 oil changes i've been running on non-synth. I change it every 3k and last 2 i went 200-300 miles over 3k before a change (not on purpose). Filters used by shop are unknown, but i have 5 mitsubishi OEM ones that jsut came in the mail.

Should I be concerned? If it would cause issues what are some signs I should watch out for?

Also I'm not sure if they put too much oil in it (the car is still warn right now as i write this) I checked the engine oil level and it was above the top notch (will check again when it's cool cool). I've driven it for less than 100m since the change and have noticed a sharp decline in fuel economy. Although I drove it pretty hard the day of the oil change because I had a lot to do that day, i've never seen it go to 14-15 mpg. I could just be paranoid about this one though.

 

Also I'm never going back there again, the guy claimed castrol GTX, but i saw nothing but o'reily's around. Could be wrong.

 

Synthetic is recommended but not required from Mitsubishi. It is a way of them cutting costs but still covering their asses. If given the choice, I'd always recommend running a synthetic oil on a turbocharged engine because turbocharged engines see such severe heat cycling (much worse compared to n/a) and synthetic generally does not contain the levels of hydrocarbons (bonds with silicon from seals/o-rings/etc and causes them to become dry and brittle) or parrafin (yes, wax, which tries to compensate by filling in gaps in damaged/cracked rubbers, but also leads to additional unwanted deposits/gunking) that conventional oils does. There are also a lot of other beneficial additives (zinc, phosphorus, etc.) that are found in quality synthetic oils but are very minimal, if even existent, in most conventional motor oils.

Conventional oil should be fine for most regular use, but if you drive your car the way most of us feel that it was "intended" to be driven, then a quality synthetic oil at regular intervals is a smart choice to make.

 

I like to do Mobil 1 Synthetic every 5,000 KM.

 

I switched to the MOBIL 1 Euro 0W40 blend a few years ago based on the oil analysis people conducted.
Been pretty good for me so far. Plus, it's always in stock and cheap at walmart.

 

I'm intrigued! You got a link to that? I would love to read up on that.
Only reason I stick with Mobil 5W30 is if its good enough for the EVO it certainly will be great in the Ralliart

 

I'm just following the data.

http://www.evoxforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29727

 

Hmm 0w40? Wonder what everyone else is running? I just picked up a use RA and the used dealership didn't have a service history but everything seemed to be in order so I am changing the oil asap just to be safe cause who knows the last time it was done. I was gonna just do plane mobil1 full synthetic 5w30.

Where do u live that ur running 0w40? I know I'm in NY and used to fun 5w40 (if memory serves me correctly) on my civic after I turboed it

 

Very well said on the bolded print
*Dealer has been putting in Castrol GTX Synthetic Blend in mine.

 

Ive been using rotella triple protection 15w40 oil

 

im in the south is 20w50 to thick for the 4b11t?

 

I would stick to 10w-30 or 10w-40 at the most.

 

All depends on the climate where you live. I live in central Canada where we have some of the craziest extremes on the planet. We go from over plus 40 degrees Celsius with the Humidex in the summer and colder than minus 45 degrees Celsius or colder with the Wind-chill factor.


I just put the big Mitsubishi Heavy Industries T-6 18 K 500 HP turbo in my car this year and in the summer I run 15W50 Full synthetic Mobil 1 with the extra Zinc and other additives when at the track etc..
If I am driving my car in the winter then 0W40 Mobil 1 Full synthetic is the way to go to get the car started with out killing the battery.