Any Ideas For Small Sub Box In RA?
Oct 14, 2011, 05:07 PM
#18
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Oct 27, 2011, 08:53 AM
#19
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On either side of the trunk there is a small styrofoam looking pad that's about 4" tall. (If you take up the carpet you can see it) its held in by 2 screws that go down into the floor... Easy to remove. Pull it out, trace it on a sheet of 1/2" birch plywood or 3/4" mdf. It won't be a perfect fit the first time, but if you massage it, you can get a nice tight fit. Use that base as the foundation for a subwoofer... You will only lose one side pocket in your trunk.
If you need more airspace, you can use the foam piece that goes across the top of the trunk in addition to that side piece. Between the two I was able to get 2.4 cubic feet for a ported 12" sub. Then just use some hardboard or some 1/4" birch ply to replace the oem trunk floor.
Our trunks are a near perfect match to charcoal felt that they sell at joannes fabric... And it's cheap.
If you need more airspace, you can use the foam piece that goes across the top of the trunk in addition to that side piece. Between the two I was able to get 2.4 cubic feet for a ported 12" sub. Then just use some hardboard or some 1/4" birch ply to replace the oem trunk floor.
Our trunks are a near perfect match to charcoal felt that they sell at joannes fabric... And it's cheap.
Oct 27, 2011, 11:52 AM
#20
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On either side of the trunk there is a small styrofoam looking pad that's about 4" tall. (If you take up the carpet you can see it) its held in by 2 screws that go down into the floor... Easy to remove. Pull it out, trace it on a sheet of 1/2" birch plywood or 3/4" mdf. It won't be a perfect fit the first time, but if you massage it, you can get a nice tight fit. Use that base as the foundation for a subwoofer... You will only lose one side pocket in your trunk.
If you need more airspace, you can use the foam piece that goes across the top of the trunk in addition to that side piece. Between the two I was able to get 2.4 cubic feet for a ported 12" sub. Then just use some hardboard or some 1/4" birch ply to replace the oem trunk floor.
Our trunks are a near perfect match to charcoal felt that they sell at joannes fabric... And it's cheap.
If you need more airspace, you can use the foam piece that goes across the top of the trunk in addition to that side piece. Between the two I was able to get 2.4 cubic feet for a ported 12" sub. Then just use some hardboard or some 1/4" birch ply to replace the oem trunk floor.
Our trunks are a near perfect match to charcoal felt that they sell at joannes fabric... And it's cheap.
Oct 28, 2011, 12:39 AM
#21
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I need to go take one of the completed trunk - I can do that tomorrow... but here are a few (cell phone pics, sorry, I didnt have a camera handy during the build)
here is a pic of all the foam in the trunk, spare and OEM trunk floor:
here is the box during the build. I made the base as one solid piece to fit where the drivers side and back (next to the back seats) foam pieces were to get the volume I needed. Then made another plate to go on the passenger side to use an an amp rack.
box:
box during test fit (yes, thats part of an external port that I managed to wrap in charcoal felt, (round port 90-degree bend, with a flare - that was fun to cover with no seams or wrinkles!), so I could keep my trunk floor low and still get a long enough port):
here is a pic of all the foam in the trunk, spare and OEM trunk floor:
here is the box during the build. I made the base as one solid piece to fit where the drivers side and back (next to the back seats) foam pieces were to get the volume I needed. Then made another plate to go on the passenger side to use an an amp rack.
box:
box during test fit (yes, thats part of an external port that I managed to wrap in charcoal felt, (round port 90-degree bend, with a flare - that was fun to cover with no seams or wrinkles!), so I could keep my trunk floor low and still get a long enough port):
Last edited by Topdown; Oct 28, 2011 at 12:54 AM.
Oct 28, 2011, 12:46 AM
#22
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Here is another interesting tidbit... Sound deadening.
Drivers door - before sound deadening:
Drivers door - before deadener
Passenger door - AFTER sound deadening with ONLY 5 SDS CLD tiles. (about 30% coverage)
Passenger door - AFTER deadener
The deadener took me... maybe 10 minutes and cost me (for 2 doors, I did all 4) about $40.00. Worth EVERY penny... the deadener helped the low-end/midbass in the doors, adding the foam (about 15.00 total for all of it) helped eliminate a lot of the high frequency road noise sneaking in through the doors (and helped eliminate door rattles, attached with spray adhesive:
Drivers door - before sound deadening:
Drivers door - before deadener
Passenger door - AFTER sound deadening with ONLY 5 SDS CLD tiles. (about 30% coverage)
Passenger door - AFTER deadener
The deadener took me... maybe 10 minutes and cost me (for 2 doors, I did all 4) about $40.00. Worth EVERY penny... the deadener helped the low-end/midbass in the doors, adding the foam (about 15.00 total for all of it) helped eliminate a lot of the high frequency road noise sneaking in through the doors (and helped eliminate door rattles, attached with spray adhesive:
Oct 28, 2011, 12:51 AM
#23
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Here are some pics (cell phone pics again) of the almost finished trunk - just need the high-excursion grill and the trunk-floor carpet, which will trim it out completely and hide everything that should be hidden 
These kinds of installs are easy and fun... I am actually considering selling the enclosure/sub/floor so I can do it again.
at the bottom of the picture, you can see about half of the "finger hole" I put into the floor so I could have easy access to my spare and jack.
These kinds of installs are easy and fun... I am actually considering selling the enclosure/sub/floor so I can do it again.
at the bottom of the picture, you can see about half of the "finger hole" I put into the floor so I could have easy access to my spare and jack.
Last edited by Topdown; Oct 28, 2011 at 11:06 AM.
Oct 29, 2011, 12:12 AM
#26
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I really should have just made a sealed box.
Oct 29, 2011, 02:44 PM
#30
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