Revolver valve spring/retainer buy is on...
Thread Starter
EvoM Staff Alumni
iTrader: (66)
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 5,454
Likes: 1
From: Austin, TX
Originally Posted by badhabit90
gots the springs and retainers in. WHAT A PAIN IN THE ARSS!!! i even had the right tools. definately not for the unskilled. BIG difference in springs noticed when installing the Revolver set versus the stock BEEHIVE spring and retainer. also installed ARP head studs and WORKS camshafts with the P2 flash. have to button it up and let her break in the cams. i think that will be later on this evening. it is 230am and im tired. will let everyone know how it went....and how she feels now. 
PS and thanks for the kudos guys. I've got a real busy week starting Monday... including my own clutch install.
...and a little buyer feed back from all you guys would be nice also
Originally Posted by mitsuorder
Hey badhabit, have fun with those keepers??? Those little guys suck 
why yes i did there, little fellurrrr.....and you?? thank goodness for the neodimium magnets. i also stuffed the oil return holes with paper towels before i did anything. those little basturrrrds are a pain. luckily i had some white lithium laying around in a tube that helped keep em where they needed to be.
UPDATE ON INSTALL:
welp, buttoned it up and took her out for a little spin tonight after the cam break in. hit boost cut real quick now. im watching the boost gauge and it happens at about 21-22psi?????? it was suggested from WORKS that i put back in the stock intake box. i have the KN Typhoon intake and havent had one problem with it before. problem with the stock box is i broke one of the tabs where the MAF sensor bolts up to on the box. the MAF is okay, but the box has a small hole in it at a mounting point for the MAF. im also going to take out my MBC and install their boost hose assembly to see if that makes a difference. once i get more miles on the car, im sure the ECU will give smoother results.
CAMS: THANK YOU AND WELCOME BACK EVOMOTO FOR TAKING THE TIME TO POST UP A TUTORIAL THAT IS EASY TO UNDERSTAND. cams in the car definately helped. the idle is a little low, but that could be due to the intake flowing a little more air. you can hear the cams a little bit when they warm up, alot when its cold. pulls quite a bit now towards the top end all the way till 7800rpm. the power did fall off before at about 6500rpm for this car. torque was that same way. we shall see how it breaks in further.
HEADSTUDS: pretty straight forward. I USED THE SEARCH FEATURE to find a tutorial for the head studs. some of them say to torque to 60ft.lbs some others say 65, another one said use ARPs suggestions which is 70ft.lbs. with the moly lube or 85ft.lbs with 30w oil. but if you read further on the sheet that comes with the ARP studs it says "due to the expansion rate of aluminum, it is recommended that the torque should be 65ft.lbs with ARP moly assembly lubricant..." so i just made a happy medium and torqued them to an easy 70ft.lbs. i also used some loctite on the threads. JUST A SMALL DROP. and not the kind you have to heat up to remove. ive read a couple of threads where the head studs came loose. not good. i did do the hand tight thing and torqued them immediately. seems to have worked well thus far. i will check them in about 500 miles and retorque.
SPRINGS: THANK YOU REVOLVER CAMS AND ZEUS FOR THE EDUMACATION ON DUH SPRINGKS and the group buy in. these little fellers definitaly play a bigger roll on performance than people think. it took me about 3 hours for just the spring install from start to finish. luckily i had a OHV spring compressor already from a prior head reassembly. good to have the right tools the first time, even if you only have used them twice.....heehheehee!!! took my time and double checked everything. ALWAYS HAVE THAT LITTLE MAGNET RETRIEVAL TOOL HANDY!!! Zeus knows what i mean.....
OVERALL IMPRESSION: im happy with my purchases and will work out the boost cut issues and will be happy. im happy with the power and control of the car and i think im done with the modding for now.
the only other two mods i would like to do is the suspension and wheels. i havent decided if i want to go with the Hotchkis springs or do a TEIN Flex set up. i have the Flex/EDFC set up on my wifes IS300 and love it. i like the Hotchkis for the stance-not too low-and gives a great ride. it also leaves the car level, unlike the TEIN S tech which is a little lower in the front giving it the raked look and not level. for wheels, several choices-KENESIS wheels, HRE, or ??? havent really decided. alot of great choices, but have to set myself apart from the crowd. an awsome car deserves an awesome set of wheels. i have decided that they will be shiney black, but then again the Kenesis wheels look good dark grey. that will be next tax season though, i think. i have other things that need attending to first.
thank you everyone for reading and lets keep this EVO family strong......drive safe, shiney side up....
Originally Posted by badhabit90
HEADSTUDS: pretty straight forward. I USED THE SEARCH FEATURE to find a tutorial for the head studs. some of them say to torque to 60ft.lbs some others say 65, another one said use ARPs suggestions which is 70ft.lbs. with the moly lube or 85ft.lbs with 30w oil. but if you read further on the sheet that comes with the ARP studs it says "due to the expansion rate of aluminum, it is recommended that the torque should be 65ft.lbs with ARP moly assembly lubricant..." so i just made a happy medium and torqued them to an easy 70ft.lbs. i also used some loctite on the threads. JUST A SMALL DROP. and not the kind you have to heat up to remove. ive read a couple of threads where the head studs came loose. not good. i did do the hand tight thing and torqued them immediately. seems to have worked well thus far. i will check them in about 500 miles and retorque.
EDIT: Just found this from a google search: "head studs, they must be torque cycled a total of 3 times. To properly torque cycle your fasteners, torque them to final recommended torque, then back them off one at a time and re-torque two more times. This allows the fastener to obtain its maximum stretch and clamping force for a better head gasket seal." In addition, it seems that it's also recommended to retorque them after a heat cycle or two.
Last edited by EVO8LTW; Mar 28, 2005 at 04:13 AM.
Originally Posted by timzcat
If you hit it with air before disassembling the cams then you know when you have the crank dead up so the rod won't rotate it under pressure.
I guess my main concern is, how do you make it certain that the crank won't move while pressurizing a cylinder in order to hold the valves up?
After doing it, your not going to stop the crank from moving. You need to take the belt off.
The idea is to have the piston at top dead center on the cylinder you are working on. When it is dead on the crank will not spin from the air pressure. This position takes a couple tries each time you move the crank. Get it for 1 and do the springs in 1&4 then move the crank to TDC for 2&3 and do the valves for 2&3. What tool do plan on using to compress the valve springs?
The idea is to have the piston at top dead center on the cylinder you are working on. When it is dead on the crank will not spin from the air pressure. This position takes a couple tries each time you move the crank. Get it for 1 and do the springs in 1&4 then move the crank to TDC for 2&3 and do the valves for 2&3. What tool do plan on using to compress the valve springs?
So it sounds like a timing belt job will need to be done using this method? I had planned on doing this the same time I did my cams, which leaves the t-belt strapped to the cam gears (using evomoto method). I guess this isn't happening the way I thought it would. I plan to use this: http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/sp91400.html. Revolver recommends it, and it's what Zeus used.
What else am I missing? Honestly, I've never done this before. I can handle the cams, no problem. I don't want to spend the day re-doing my t-belt if I don't have to. By the way someone said you don't want to "pull a Zeus", so I assume it can be done without having to redo the t-belt. Or did I read that section wrong?
What else am I missing? Honestly, I've never done this before. I can handle the cams, no problem. I don't want to spend the day re-doing my t-belt if I don't have to. By the way someone said you don't want to "pull a Zeus", so I assume it can be done without having to redo the t-belt. Or did I read that section wrong?
I said that before I did mine. To be honest I looked at the situation and said it's not going to happen unless I pull the belt off.
That is the tool I used and I will tell you now there is nowhere to mount it properly unless you remove 4 of the dowel pins where the cam caps go. You can just get 4 new ones because you'll probably destroy them getting them out. Done properly it will take you a good part of a day to do it. Where are you located?
There are also a bunch of gaskets and seals to consider replacing like you are supposed to. The other thng is, depending on your mileage you may want to pop for a new belt and tensioner. Your there, why reuse the old parts?
Parts for everything is about $200 from MP.net. I can give you all the part numbers and quantities of everything if you need it.
That is the tool I used and I will tell you now there is nowhere to mount it properly unless you remove 4 of the dowel pins where the cam caps go. You can just get 4 new ones because you'll probably destroy them getting them out. Done properly it will take you a good part of a day to do it. Where are you located?
There are also a bunch of gaskets and seals to consider replacing like you are supposed to. The other thng is, depending on your mileage you may want to pop for a new belt and tensioner. Your there, why reuse the old parts?
Parts for everything is about $200 from MP.net. I can give you all the part numbers and quantities of everything if you need it.
Last edited by timzcat; Apr 20, 2005 at 12:24 PM.
After reading about the crank turning, I figured the belt would have to come off. I've never done that, either. Looking at the service manual, it seems like a big job. Hard to understand why all that stuff needs to come off in order to time the car, until you get in and do it. Can you just remove the lower timing belt cover after the accessory belt is off and mark where the belt is on the crank pulley? I wouldn't be messing with the balance shaft belt, so that shouldn't have to be redone. I'm in central Alabama.
I've got 25K on the clock, so I hadn't considered a new belt or anything. But that was before I knew the t-belt had to come off.
I've got 25K on the clock, so I hadn't considered a new belt or anything. But that was before I knew the t-belt had to come off.
It is a decent amount of work but it's not horrible. If you take the timing covers off you can remove the tensioner and belt. You need to remove some stuff to get at the cover though. Water pump pulley is tricky. You have to lower the engine to get to the bolts through an access hole in the frame. There are 2 balance shafts, the one in the back is driven by a belt, the one up front is driven by the oil pump. The only real reason to remove the DP and undertray is to insert a screw driver in an access hole to make sure the balance shaft is in the right position. If you don't move the front blance shaft you can get away without taking all of DP and stuff off.
A belt and tensioner is deffinitely worth considering since you are all ready there and the Mitsu tensioner is not know for it's reliability long term.
A belt and tensioner is deffinitely worth considering since you are all ready there and the Mitsu tensioner is not know for it's reliability long term.
Thread Starter
EvoM Staff Alumni
iTrader: (66)
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 5,454
Likes: 1
From: Austin, TX
Short notes... I'm in a hurry:
You can replace the valve springs while using the Evomoto cam swap guide, and with the cylinders pressurized to 110psi... the catch is that you can not rotate the crank while doing so. IF YOU DROP A VALVE WITH A PISTON AT BDC, YOU WILL HAVE TO PULL THE HEAD. So if you lose your air pressure, your job just became a two day affair for the novice/quasi-mechanic. I do not recommend this method to you, but have done it myself this way.
BUY the AMS tensioner tool for $40! it is worth it's weight in gold... got to love a chromoly tensioner tool. I've used it many times now, and it is no where near worn. Use a light touch with 1/4 turns waiting a several seconds between them to allow the tensioner to properly compress.
No more time, got to go...
You can replace the valve springs while using the Evomoto cam swap guide, and with the cylinders pressurized to 110psi... the catch is that you can not rotate the crank while doing so. IF YOU DROP A VALVE WITH A PISTON AT BDC, YOU WILL HAVE TO PULL THE HEAD. So if you lose your air pressure, your job just became a two day affair for the novice/quasi-mechanic. I do not recommend this method to you, but have done it myself this way.
BUY the AMS tensioner tool for $40! it is worth it's weight in gold... got to love a chromoly tensioner tool. I've used it many times now, and it is no where near worn. Use a light touch with 1/4 turns waiting a several seconds between them to allow the tensioner to properly compress.
No more time, got to go...
Originally Posted by Zeus
You can replace the valve springs while using the Evomoto cam swap guide, and with the cylinders pressurized to 110psi... the catch is that you can not rotate the crank while doing so.
timzcat, sent you a PM.
Parts list for spring and retainer replacement
2 MD372536 Cam Seal
4 MD132806 Cam cap dowel pin Iif using the sjdiscounttools spring comp.)
1 MD329503 Cam sensor housing cover gasket
Optional Parts
1 MR984375 Belt Tensioner
1 MD369999 Tensioner Pulley
1 MD326059 Timing Belt
1 MD340535 valve cover gasket
4 MD186785 valve cover spark plug grommets
1 MD016483 Valve keepers
2 MD372536 Cam Seal
4 MD132806 Cam cap dowel pin Iif using the sjdiscounttools spring comp.)
1 MD329503 Cam sensor housing cover gasket
Optional Parts
1 MR984375 Belt Tensioner
1 MD369999 Tensioner Pulley
1 MD326059 Timing Belt
1 MD340535 valve cover gasket
4 MD186785 valve cover spark plug grommets
1 MD016483 Valve keepers
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Shaun@AWDMotorsports
EvoX 'For Sale' Engine Internals and Drivetrain
110
Dec 6, 2016 04:52 PM
WTB[West]: gsc beehive spring/retainers
Gtizks
For Sale - Engine / Drivetrain / Power
0
Dec 5, 2015 03:03 PM
Gruppe-S
Evo 'For Sale' Suspension / Brakes / Handling
280
Jul 13, 2010 04:49 PM
