That's Interesting. I design Hydraulic Systems and one very common failure is over-tightening clamps. Overtightening can sometimes be worse than undertightening. There is a torque spec on clamps, along with a proper way of tightening T-Bolts/Worm Drives, and Chuck Norrising it isn't in that spec.

 

Yes, overtightening clamps can be a problem under such pressures our evos run. I couldn't tell you exactly where to stop you get a feel for it. Ive overtightened and stripped many things in mine and my workers' evos so I try to stay abit softer because I am a 6'1" 225lb ex football player hehe so my tightening abilities end up in a broken clamp

On another note, do all yourselves a favor and get a Nisei LICP. Injen, AMS, Ralliart, HPF, Turbo XS, Greddy spec have all seen my evo and all have fit bad to okay and all of em blew off except the Ralliart bit it still didn't fit that well. Nisei LICP fit PREFECTLY and did not blow off ONCE. I ran a FP at 28psi and it didn;t budge. at about $150, you cannot go wrong. And they have a lightweight aluminum model available for you weight watchers. ALSO what is nice about this is that it comes with a plate braket so your licp doesnt go flying off onto the highway if it blows off...

James

 

nisei licp is by far the best

 

I don't crank on them with a lot of torque, using like a 12" bar at the end of a ratchet heaving on them with all my might.....I know they have tq. specs but I have seen to many people who get t-bolts and are scared to tighten them for fear of bending a pipe and they crank them less than a worm clamp? Then they have boost leaks, pipes blow off, etc.

I tighten mine down with a std. ratchet with my hand up towards the top where i don't have a huge amount of leverage then tighten them to where they feel tight and I have never had an issue - That does not mean chuck norris tight, as i said that tight can hurt..I don't "over-tighten" the clamps - I tighten them to do the job they were made to do. I would rather have tightened clamps.....not over, not under - just tight.

I'm sure your an expert in tightening clamps, etc in your field, I'm just a construction manager so I'm not an engineer but I kinda have a feel for stuff from doing it many times over the years and i tighten my clamps to do there job. I also don't have issues with boost leaks and pipes blowing off so I must be doing something right.

 

I have the injen LICP, it fit fine and hasnt blown off but it has a weird bend and it seems like the AMS one flows better.

 

I had my Injen LICP for about 9 months. Haven't had problems.

 

I used to have the Injen on my car. It fit fine with the stock couplings. I ran it 30 psi on C16 and have no problem. Daily with 24 psi and nothing either. Matter of fact, it was kinda pain in the *** to take it off.

 

i have that pip kit and mine went on like butter. and till this day its been 5monthes ago when i put it on and it hasnt popped off yet.no boost leaks or n e thing @24psi daily driver. plus the one piece design is bullet proof. unlike a two piece design the single has less resistance b/c there is no extra couplings(two piece).not saying that the two piece is bad,just putting some info out there.

 

I didn't mean for that to offend you, sorry if so. The torque spec's for T-Bolts are usually in the inch-lbs's, really small numbers. When you overtighten a T-Bolt, what usually happens is where the bolt is pulling the two ends together, you will get the coupler below to pinch and rise up, thus creating a leak. Really, the proper way to tighten a silicone coupler with T-Bolts is to use some sort of a lubricant under the T-Bolt strap (But not oil.) so that it will slide against the coupler. I usually use window cleaner because it will allow the T-Bolt to slide against the coupler, and will evaporate in short time.

A little bit of **** assembly once when putting things together will keep those couplers from blowing off at the most inconvenient times.

 

Its all good......

All I was coming across with is don't be afraid to tighten them up. Some people think that just tightening them could be over tight because you can use a little more tq. over the worm clamps and people who aren't familiar with them get a little hesitant which results in under tightened clamps that leak or eventually blow off. You can def. tighten them correctly without hulking out on them which is what I do and works.

Everyone has there own way to install parts and what works for one person someone may not agree with - thats the way the world turns, but it all works in the end

 

Up to 50LBS of airflow the stock pipe is plenty good.

There hasn't been a single stock turbo dyno showing gains from the LICP.

 

We guarantee 100% bolt-on fitment on our products and warranty everything we build for life, so I can assure you no fitment issues with our LICP kit We also include a 4-ply reinforced silicone coupler for the turbo outlet connection and 100% SS Breeze T-bolt clamps that will take everything a 3/8" impact gun will take without breaking (we will replace them no questions asked if they do!). Piping is 2.5" for the complete length in just one piece with no reductions. We actually just redesigned our LICP for slightly shorter length:



If I can help answer any questions be sure to get a hold of me!

Tom

 

I have the Injem LICP as well, and run over stock boost as well and have never had a problem with mine.

 

My pipe Injen licp has come off a twice. I had not changed out the clamps from the kit w/ t-bolt clamps. Now i have no problems at 27 psi and I feel that the pipes helped my turbo spool a little faster. I can't make more than 27.5 though. I cant figure out if its my turbo, icp, or my ebc needs to be adjusted to hit 30. It just won't hit it no matter the setting on my ebc the other night. Oh well, I want to get a fp green soon anyway.

 

That ETS pipe looks amazing, I may have to get that when I get their intercooler next week.