Besides what I ran before I was up to speed...

I run TT/TA. There are times I'll go out for 3 hot laps, but there are several sessions/days where I run the full allotted time as well as I love seattime. Got a lot to say.......

1) Rotors...so many opinions. Honestly I run 1-piece centrics from KNSBrakes here on the forums. They aren't fancy but they are helli-cheap and they work (the latter is why I use them). I'll burn through a few sets a year and I'm pretty cautious with them and they're cheap & easy to switch out. They are 1/5th the price of PF's after all.

2) I've ran PFC01's and Hawk DTC60's on the car. The 60's have been great for me and I have no plans to change to them. They aren't a crazy on/off pad, I can modulate them going into and off the brake without up setting the car. I can look up a 245 Hoosier if I miss a braking point so they've got plenty of bite as well. They (DTC60's) are very reasonable, aren't crazy dusty, don't squeal when cold and aren't corrosive.3) Ran Motul; never liked it. It needed too much bleeding and I always seemed to start the next session with a mushy pedal. I also was able to boil it a few times. What I switched to and like better is AMSOIL DOT4 (review --> https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/se...ck-review.html). It's got similar stats to Mutul 600 but the pedal pressure is much more consistent and you don't have to bleed near as much. If I were to upgrade again; I'd go SRF and be done with it.

4) Hoosier R6's for me too. Some A6's last year. I'll run Dunlop Z1 StarSpecs occasionally too - with all the above setups and that's when I really feel ABS trying to back me of...lol.

5) Misc.

• Ducting - I also have a forge brake duct kit
• SS Lines - Also Goodrich SS lines and titanium backing shims up front.
• Underpanel? - I've ran with the stock plastic one, with nothing and with the beatrush one. Only did 2 weekends with the beatrush and I boiled my Motul fluid twice with it on (details --> https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mo...ray-cause.html) No really sure why but I ripped it off and have yet to put it back on. Still debating if I should reinstall for 2010.

 

I agree about the design of the rotors. http://www.racingbrake.com/v/main/rotor_vane_design.asp This is a photo of the next best step in Rotor evolution. Pete

 

Nice info Nate. One thing though, unless the AMS brake duct kit has changed recently, im pretty sure its not 3" of hose. IIRC its 2"of hose, and im pretty sure mine is also 2":

http://www.amsperformance.com/cart/A...mance.com.html

 

I have the Forge kit as well (from about 3 years ago). Mine is 2" not 2.5". Did they start making a 2.5" version or did you upgrade just the ducting which would not do much (in my opinion) since you are still restricted to 2" at the metal duct itself.

 

Also - I believe the AMS kit is not 3".

 

Looked at the AMS website and they state 2" tubing specifically - sorry about that. I updated my earlier post and removed sizes altogether.

http://www.amsperformance.com/cart/A...mance.com.html

 

What kind of rotor temps are you guys seeing after 20min. on track ? And the decision to add brake ducts was because of what ? Pete

 

800 F

 

- Never known on track, by the time I got back to the pit with the IR gun they are around 350F
- Before I had ducts, I set my pads on fire, these were the ST43's Ducts = good. Not a single car in any serious series that doesn't have ducting, rear too.

 

I'm all about ducting but AMS is the only kit I can find and that's a bit pricey for 2" materials.

I'd rather take an extra mid session cool down lap.

Someone could make serious money if they just sold the caliper attachment as I can find hose from anywhere even ebay fairly cheap.

 

^^^^ I'll look into that. I built mine. Hotlap couldn't keep building them for whatever reason, and they were priced low? Maybe they were too early in the EVO track markety, before lots of people were doing HPDE etc.

Mine.

 

Same situation here, but I had much more. I think mine were more like 500F. That is with DTC 60 pads & Forge 2" ducting, Motul fluid, all else stock. In my experience, I found that ducting prolonged the period of time before the fluid boiled or the street pads faded (DTC's never faded on me) and one of these always happen to me if I drive hard enough for long enough.

My next brake upgrade is going to be a 2 piece curved vane rotor for sure. I need to get the air moving between the discs to get them to cool quicker on the straights.

I hope that Peter Tiebout can still hook me up

Peter, if you have the logging equipment and need the data, you are welcome to hook up my car with it. I'm heading to Monticello on April 12, full course. It may be the last or second to last event on my stock brembo rotors.

 

This is the twin stainless steel brake hat that Charlie North custom built for my NASA Super Touring Evolution 8 brakes. These custom built 2 piece rotors and Hawk DTC70 pads have out performed the Vipers and Corvettes in Super Touring.



Contact Charlie at Function First Motorsports in Vermont for questions and cost. The twin 2" hoses are equal to the volume of a 3" hose. Most Trans Am and GT-1 race cars use twin 3" hoses with electric fans on 1 pair.

 

Wowser - any more pics? Are you running fans or do those route to somewhere in the front bumper??

Email sent; done! I also asked if he'd be interested in making a run of several of these.

 

That is sweet.