That looks like it would get the job done nicely.. I want some!

 

Are you missing the pad clip on purpose there? (under the two pins that hold the pads in place).

I'd be afraid of those hoses turning into a gooey mess after a session.

 

I would like to modify my heat shields to allow more fresh air to make it to the rotor. But I'm afraid even a slight modification will end up turning my ABS harness and ball joints to a "gooey mess".

I would like additional feedback from the folks that moved from Motul to SRF. Do you feel the SRF justifies its cost? How do you top off after a partial bleed? Do you keep one bottle that is opened and partially used?

 

If you are racing all the time I'd suggest it's worth it.

It's roughly twice the price of Motul. $80/L versus $20/half liter although in volume Motul is less.

But it lasts much longer and doesn't boil easily.

 

Hardware unnecessary, no issues regarding heat after 2 seasons with this cooling set up.

 

Boomn:

I agree with your philosophy of using inexpensive rotors. Which Centric rotor are you using? There are two - "Standard" and "Premium".

FWIW, I am using the Beatrush underpanel with the AMS brake cooling kit. It seems to work fine. I tweaked the kit a bit by mounting a Vibrant 45 degree aluminum tube elbow to the top of the Beatrush underpanel, then have two sections of flexible tubing connecting to the elbow - one from the bumper cover to the elbow, and the other from the elbow to the hub. This allows easy removal of the latter flexible tube for street driving.

 

Any pics to share?

Rotors: I believe just the standard. They've lasted me 7 days each and I've went through 2 or 3 sets of them already. I'm thinking about trying something different just for the heck of it.

Btw, here's my older brake fluid review that also show my pad/rotor progression since 2006: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/se...ck-review.html

 

I assume this part just puts some pressure on the pad to prevent it from rattling bad in daily driving - correct?

Wow, that is a short time for rotors. I have been trying to kill my stock ones off to go 2-piece but they don't want to wear out. I am at just over 31mm, so I have about 1.5mm more to go but it seems like it is taking for ever... I killed off a set of stock pads, a set of HP+'s, and 3 sets of DTC60's. Maybe a total of around 25+ days. and I do use my brakes, even with ducting I have blackbos, not brownbos, with seals all cracked up from the heat. Got the spider cracks on the rotors too.

Is it possible that the cheaper rotors wear faster?

 

He is using the standards.

I was a bit nervous about that as M Grand had a set and they didn't last long -

But - I think he installed/raced. You certainly want to heat cycle the cheap rotors on the street some before racing if you can.

 

They are usually called anti-rattle springs so yes.

 

thanks for the info on the clips. I'l quit bothering to install them on track weekends lol.

 

I like the idea of having the extra tension on everything, but i'm picky so

 

I'm sure I switch them out long before they're 'done'. Once they're spider cracked pretty well I'd switch them between events. No sense no making it through an event - and I'd rather be overly safe. Plus being these are on the cheap, it's not biggie. I've cycled through through a few sets of calipers and seals myself.

Here's a pic of my old rotors (centric 1-piece) vs a new one.


Yep; Standards.
I'd install them, usually swap in some new pads, bleed the brakes and take it for a very short testdrive to make sure things were legit. Then load it up on the trailor for the next event! I'd do the hard braking/bedding procedure at the track actually and never ever had issues.

 

Some good discussions here. Wanted to let you guys know that ill probably be posting my 2nd Girodisc thread, maybe today if i have enough time, basically noting how much i got out of my 2nd set of front rotors. Ill probably post some pics this time around.

 

Ahhh...that makes sense... Better safe than sorry always a good strategy.
You probably have tons of thickness still left on them for street use or whatever.

The surface spider cracks don't really scare me, I just make sure to check the rotors before I head out each session. I do it before as the rotor has a chance to cool and if anything cracked, it is easier to see then when everything is still hot and expanded. I specifically look to see if there are any cracks on the outer edge or going into the hub area - basically if I find anything deep or that is off the swept area, that's when I call it quits.

I do measure the rotor thickness before each event to make sure I don't hit the min-limit during an event.

Here are mine: