if i hav a couple mods on my car like intake exhuast and uicp installed will my warranty be voided????

 

Depends on the issue. If it can be proven that your mods caused the issue then Yes your warranty will be void.

Example:
- Car retuned and engine blows then no warranty.
- Engine retuned and sterio blows then warranty.

 

Depends on the dealer, really. Some dealers will void your warranty if they see any type of mod. Sure, you can fight it in court, but that will take months and Mitsubishi has more resources than you do. Best bet is to put it back to stock before you take it in to the dealer for anything.

 

Manufactures can only void the clam in question if they can directly relate the modifications as a direct result to the problem. We are protected by law. Further more, they can not void the entire car. Just sections that could are related to the part replaced with something other than OEM. Even then they (by law) are required to prove that the part installed was the culprit if challenged.

 

God, I am so sick of people telling other people to put their cars back to stock before bringing them into the dealership. If you're going in for maintenance, the mods will have nothing to do with it and they're not going to spend the time trying to flag your car when you've come in for an oil change. Period!

If you come in for a bigger concern that requires diagnosis, as long as the problem is not related to the parts you have installed, your warranty will not be voided. Period!

If you have modified your car and this has directly caused harmful results that damage your vehicle or its drivability, you ****ed up, deal with it. Putting it back to stock and taking it into the dealership causes multiple problems.
1. If your part caused the problem, there is no way for the technician to properly diagnose the problem and you are wasting their time.
2. Most good technicians will be able to recognize if a vehicle has been modified or not. There are telltale signs that you may think you are clever enough to hide everything, but there is always a very good possibility that your technician knows your vehicle better than you do.
3. If you are caught doing this, your dealership will no longer want to have anything to do with you on any sort of basis and you will not receive any kind of help or favors at any point in the future, unless you are paying excessively for said help.
4. You have learned nothing from this incident, and/or your mistake, and if you are lucky enough to get away with scamming your way out of the situation, you are that much more likely to overall become the irresponsible **** that your parents tried NOT to raise.

Most dealerships are not complete jerks, and there are plenty that are even willing to help out an enthusiast whenever possible. The best thing is to be honest and straightforward about everything and usually your dealer will do whatever they can to help you out, even if they can't cover something under warranty, a lot of the time they will be more willing to cut you a decent break on the standard pricing because you were honest about everything up front. This is why you should be shopping for a service dept. along with the vehicle itself that you are purchasing. But if there's one thing I can tell you for sure, it's when a car comes through our doors and the owner blatantly lies to our face when we can tell that the car has been modified and reverted, and that's connected in some way to their problem, they can sooner go **** themselves than expect any help or undue cooperation from any of us. /rant

 

My car is at the dealer right now. It has a mbc (which Im changing back to stock and putting the pill in), hks sqqv bov and a diy intake on it. My car is making some weird rattling internal noise thats why its there. Mitsubishi is going to fix the probable if the probable was not caused by the mods. I also bought an extended warranty that might cover it if the factory one will not. If all else fails the dealer themselves are going to pay to fix it since they said my car would be covered under warranty with those mods on it when they sold it to me. I dont know if all dealers are like that but theres a real life example for you. I just wish theyd hurry up and fix my car already lol.

 

that weird noise is probably due to you being an idiot and installing a DIY intake on the car firstly, and secondly, not tuning for the intake.

Im at my witts end when it comes to the new people on here NOT RESEARCHING what is and isnt safe.

OUR CAR NEEDS TO BE TUNED FOR ANY INTAKE MODIFICATIOn, including the Injen intake(which is a piece of junk). The air fuel is thrown right out of wake and can and will eventually cause issues, including "weird internal noises"

 

Before u start calling people idiots maybe you should do some research. I didnt install the DIY intake you MORON I bought it that way. Thats why I made sure my warranty would not be voided with those mods on it when I bought it from the dealer because I knew that. My AFR is in the 11s with the DYI intake on it so why do I need a TUNE?

 

Not to mention your claim of dealers not denying warranty for things completely unrelated. i had my dealer deny working on my car because they key-less entry wouldn't work. Why? Because I had installed an aftermarket headunit and they claimed that was the issue (it was simply connected using a metra wiring harness, so obviously that was bull****). Maybe your dealer is nice, but not everyone's is. Simply put, unless you KNOW the dealer is mod-friendly, its best to revert the car back to stock so they don't pull some bull****. Sure the MMWA is supposed to prevent this issue, but dealers will still try.

 

wrong. Sadly instead of being informed, you allowed the dealership to walk all over you.

They legally need to prove that the deck is causing the issue, and not being able to cannot refuse a warranty claim.

If you have such troubles at the dealer level, which isnt uncommon as they only see $$ and dont really give 2 ****s, you need to call Mitsubishi USA or CAN customer service and or warranty info lines and discuss the matter. At that point the matter is taken well above the stealerships heads and is often resolved quickly.

It never hurts to hit up google, or the site asking for help on legitimate issues.

 

im sorry, you arent an idiot for installing, you are an idiot for continuing to drive it with the intake.

And really, your afr is in the 11's? where, at 4500 rpm? On a cobb access port ? what tool are you using to diagnostic the car? at what rpm and what gears are you checking? Are you data logging for a true figure instead of glancing at a gauge?

There alot more questions then answer there.

 

Seriously, ease up on the man. Who in the hell made you judge and jury on every mod, and why do you care so much about what happens to his car? He's not asking you to repair it or anything.

If you are so hot about the $70 SRI not working properly, why don't you take some of your time and log it on your car, and present a report in the appropriate thread showing key points where you see dangerous AFRs. You keep bullying people to prove to you that the SRI works, why don't you prove that it doesn't work? Until then just shut up and let him mod his car the way he wants.

 

+1!

I am tired of people who keep saying the DIY intake needs a tune! I've got my AFR gauge with an LC-1 all the time and they AFR is as I was expecting it (a little about 11 on boost + reasonable throttle and can go as low as mid-9 on full acceleration).

My mods are the following:
- Boost pill + GSTv2 91 Octane for 2009 Ralliart
- DIY Intake with a K&N
- UR Downpipe
- Crappy test pipe (it's 3'')
- EVO X Intercooler

The only thing I see about the DIY Intake is that it is a Short RAM Intake so it's actually sucking hot air from your engine bay. I find it's got a very nice sound but it might actually reduce performance due to this hot air coming in and being harder to compress. To comprensate, put a EVO X Intercooler, it's very cheap and should more than compensate the slightly hotter air.

P.S.: If you want a look at my AFR, come here and drive with me for 2 minutes, I'll allow you to look at my gauge but I won't take the time to post a log for you.

 

zx, there is a tremendous difference between the map you are running, and the stock one. Im sure razorlab would be happy to post the fuel charts for both to show the amounts.

The big reasons that diy or aftermarket intakes can negatively affect afr are simple, The size of the maf housing, tricking the maf into not accounting for certain flow (injen), and the total amount of air being taken in.

Our maf althought it is an amazing little piece of equipment when you really break it down, simply cannot account for the change in air flow properly when the variation is so much.

Another thing to consider is the situation where a person has more then just the intake on a stock tune, which causes even more lean-ness. For example, having a diy intake, cat back, hks ssqv and upper ic pipe. In this instance, everything is contributing to how lean the stock mapping has become. When adding the intake to those or similar mods, you are taking a leaner mixture and adding to it exponentially.

Is it true that not all vehicles will experience the same afrs with the same set ups, yes of course, so many variables contribute to that. But, to obtain proper levels, the most out of the intake, and to provide safety to you an your engine, tuning for it is always the best and most reliable way to do it.

On a side note, it has been shown time and time again that changing the intake on the stock turbo yields no real power gains over the stock air box with a high flow filter. The one intake that seems to flow amazingly (AMS) does infact require a tune, something ams specifically designed a tune for. Outside of that particular intake though, a high flow is truly the best option until you change the turbine.

 

i was probably the first person on here to log afrs on the stock turbo with a short ram when i bought my Ultimate Racing one. On the drive to the dyno, which was 150 kms away the same day, i logged 4-5 4th and 5th gear pulls both showing dramatic drops in afr into the 13.3 range. At the time, the can only had an evo intercooler (which doesnt effect afr what so ever) and a UR catback exhaust.

Prior to installing the intake, my car ran very rich, in the low 10's sometimes 9's for afrs.

Our car isnt the only one that has the same issues. The mazda speed boards has a long argument over how removing the stock box and replacing it with a cone filter could effect the car. In almostevery documented circumstance those who didnt do both of a. cutting the maf housing out of the airbox and reusing aand b. bought a cone filter with a vortex generator on it (or whatever they call it, essentially it makes the air funnel circularly) saw engine issues and leaning problems almost instantly.

I know this because i was the first to do the mod on the msforums. My car thankfully didnt have issues as i cut the maf housing out of the stock box, and luckily bought an aem filter that have the vortex design to it. Others who tried to copy me, who didnt do either of the 2, saw issues almost instantly.