Which Gauges would you get
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 114
Likes: 0
From: West Palm Beach
Which Gauges would you get
I'm looking for everyone's input.
If you were going to get 5 different gauges which one's would they be and why?
I'm looking to get a 3 gauges pillar pod and a dual steering column pod for my car.
If you were going to get 5 different gauges which one's would they be and why?
I'm looking to get a 3 gauges pillar pod and a dual steering column pod for my car.
Get three gauges: Boost, Wideband, and another of your choice. Personally I would do oil temp or oil pressure.
Or get a multi display.
Zeitronix and PLX make good options.
I have PLX personally and love it. One can show 4 readings and you can load data to a pc.
Zeitronix and PLX make good options.
I have PLX personally and love it. One can show 4 readings and you can load data to a pc.
Last edited by bougs; Oct 10, 2011 at 05:20 PM. Reason: typo.
There is three important gauges I'd go with. Boost, wideband and oil pressure.
If you want 5, then add those 3 above and then egt and oil temp. That is how I would do it.
If you want 5, then add those 3 above and then egt and oil temp. That is how I would do it.
Trending Topics
Evolving Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 287
Likes: 0
From: Gurnee, IL but currently in 29 Palms, CA
5 gauges?
Let me guess, and some underglows also? lol JK
Ummmm... I personally only have a wideband and a boost gauge. The 2 most important ones personally. If I were to add another one it would probably be Oil pressure, but that's not happening.
Let me guess, and some underglows also? lol JK
Ummmm... I personally only have a wideband and a boost gauge. The 2 most important ones personally. If I were to add another one it would probably be Oil pressure, but that's not happening.
Stack is about the best around.....but they arn't that nice to look at lol. I like Defi, but there are lots of gauges that will do the job just as well......but they are a sick looking piece.
I do HPDEs, so I need to know what my motor is doing at all times. I think running gauges for show is a waste. These are the gauges that I think are most valuable. This is my opinion, so don't be surprised if someone else jumps in and tells you the exact opposite.

In order of importance:
Boost Gauge (-30-35PSI)
You need to know if you have a boost leak or if you're overboosting, so you need a boost gauge.
Oil Pressure Gauge
If you are not getting oil to your motor but it's still running, chances are it won't be for much longer.

EGT Gauge
Having an idea as to how hot your motor is getting is huge. Once you get past 1650F, you may start to melt components.
Taken from http://www.sdsefi.com/techegt.htm
Wideband UEGO Controller + Gauge
I've read that A/F gauges are spotty, but I don't see the harm in knowing how your fuel supply is doing. If you start running lean and don't know it... *KA-BOOM!!*
Oil Temperature Gauge
It's a good idea to know how hot your oil is getting, especially since it's part of the cooling equation. By the time the stock gauge in your cluster tells you the motor is hot, it's waaaaaay too late. At a certain temperature your oil can start to break down as well. Normal driving will give you an idea as to what your normal operating temps are. As you start to push the car, you'll get a better idea as to what's considered 'normal' when you're pushing the car. That's the number you want to stay within.

In order of importance:
Boost Gauge (-30-35PSI)
You need to know if you have a boost leak or if you're overboosting, so you need a boost gauge.
Oil Pressure Gauge
If you are not getting oil to your motor but it's still running, chances are it won't be for much longer.

EGT Gauge
Having an idea as to how hot your motor is getting is huge. Once you get past 1650F, you may start to melt components.
Some gauge manufacturers say you should tune to achieve maximum or peak EGT for maximum performance. This is incorrect. Peak EGT generally occurs at an AFR of around 14.7- 15.0 to 1 on gasoline. This is far too lean for maximum power and is dangerous under continuous WOT conditions. Many people think that the leaner you go, the higher the EGT gets. This is also incorrect. Peak EGT occurs at stoichiometry- about 15 to 1 for our purposes. If you go richer than 15 to 1, EGT will drop and if you go leaner than 15 to 1 EGT will ALSO drop. It is VERY important to know which side of peak EGT you are on before making adjustments. It is safe to say that peak power will occur at an EGT somewhat colder than peak EGT.
You can sometimes feel a lean of peak condition as the mixture is hard to ignite and power will be down a bit as well. Once the AFR gets close to 17 to 1 at WOT, generally the engine will start to lean misfire. Most tuners always recommend to begin jetting or programming from a known very rich initial setting and carefully leaning until torque falls off slightly, then going back richer to the point of max torque. Note the EGT at this setting. Be aware that altitude, barometric pressure and ambient air temperature may affect this optimal temperature to some degree.
Are EGT gauges better than AFR meters? Conventional narrow band oxygen sensors and digital LED meters are not the best devices to measure AFR in the richer ranges but they certainly warn of a too lean condition immediately and obviously, without translation by the driver and they are affordable. Meters combined with wide band sensors are supposed to be highly accurate and everyone has jumped on the bandwagon with these lately. Unfortunately the naive and impressionable often don't question the accuracy of these devices. We have seen some dyno plots indicating best power was achieved at AFRs of 9.7 to 1 on gasoline. This is PHYSICALLY AND CHEMICALLY IMPOSSIBLE and shows that either the sensor was bad (leaded fuel used possibly) or the meter was not calibrated properly. Again, the wide band sensors have the same limitations as the narrow band- leaded race gas quickly fouls them. We have heard and read many stories now indicating that certain brands of wideband meters differ as much as 2 points AFR in readings between each other. In other words, the accuracy of some of these devices is highly questionable. Extensive testing with laboratory quality instrumentation on aircraft engines universally indicates that best power is NEVER made at AFRs richer than 12 to 1. Airflow and fuel flow rates are independently measured and each cylinder is instrumented with EGT probes.
We recently dynoed a shop road racing Celica on a DynoJet equipped with a wide band meter. The meter was saying that the engine was going super lean (17 to 1) at high rpm so we kept upping the fuel there. The engine lost more and more power as we added fuel. The dyno operator was convinced that the meter was right but logic told us with no serious dip in power on the curve and the fact that the engine was still alive that the meter was not correct. We started leaning the engine down more and the engine started gaining power. Finally, when confronted with this information, the operator checked the water trap for the wide band sensor. Once this was emptied, the AFRs looked reasonable again. We didn't need the wide band to tell us this, only the torque curve from the dyno.
We have heard of several other instances with people using wide bands getting erroneous readings and tuning their SDS based on these readings. Then they phone us saying that the system is crap. Look at the dyno curve, when the engine makes its best power at a given rpm, that's where it likes the AFR irregardless of what other instrumentation is telling you. Remember, a bad sensor whether O2 or EGT equals bad information. When the engine sounds crisp and makes great power, you're there.
I would suggest that mixture meters and EGT gauges are complimentary. EGT gauges have the advantage of working long term with leaded fuel which will clog oxygen sensors. EGT gauges are widely used to set mixture on engines used for steady state high power applications where operation has been carefully documented such as in aircraft. The choice would depend on the application. Both are better if you can afford them.
You can sometimes feel a lean of peak condition as the mixture is hard to ignite and power will be down a bit as well. Once the AFR gets close to 17 to 1 at WOT, generally the engine will start to lean misfire. Most tuners always recommend to begin jetting or programming from a known very rich initial setting and carefully leaning until torque falls off slightly, then going back richer to the point of max torque. Note the EGT at this setting. Be aware that altitude, barometric pressure and ambient air temperature may affect this optimal temperature to some degree.
Are EGT gauges better than AFR meters? Conventional narrow band oxygen sensors and digital LED meters are not the best devices to measure AFR in the richer ranges but they certainly warn of a too lean condition immediately and obviously, without translation by the driver and they are affordable. Meters combined with wide band sensors are supposed to be highly accurate and everyone has jumped on the bandwagon with these lately. Unfortunately the naive and impressionable often don't question the accuracy of these devices. We have seen some dyno plots indicating best power was achieved at AFRs of 9.7 to 1 on gasoline. This is PHYSICALLY AND CHEMICALLY IMPOSSIBLE and shows that either the sensor was bad (leaded fuel used possibly) or the meter was not calibrated properly. Again, the wide band sensors have the same limitations as the narrow band- leaded race gas quickly fouls them. We have heard and read many stories now indicating that certain brands of wideband meters differ as much as 2 points AFR in readings between each other. In other words, the accuracy of some of these devices is highly questionable. Extensive testing with laboratory quality instrumentation on aircraft engines universally indicates that best power is NEVER made at AFRs richer than 12 to 1. Airflow and fuel flow rates are independently measured and each cylinder is instrumented with EGT probes.
We recently dynoed a shop road racing Celica on a DynoJet equipped with a wide band meter. The meter was saying that the engine was going super lean (17 to 1) at high rpm so we kept upping the fuel there. The engine lost more and more power as we added fuel. The dyno operator was convinced that the meter was right but logic told us with no serious dip in power on the curve and the fact that the engine was still alive that the meter was not correct. We started leaning the engine down more and the engine started gaining power. Finally, when confronted with this information, the operator checked the water trap for the wide band sensor. Once this was emptied, the AFRs looked reasonable again. We didn't need the wide band to tell us this, only the torque curve from the dyno.
We have heard of several other instances with people using wide bands getting erroneous readings and tuning their SDS based on these readings. Then they phone us saying that the system is crap. Look at the dyno curve, when the engine makes its best power at a given rpm, that's where it likes the AFR irregardless of what other instrumentation is telling you. Remember, a bad sensor whether O2 or EGT equals bad information. When the engine sounds crisp and makes great power, you're there.
I would suggest that mixture meters and EGT gauges are complimentary. EGT gauges have the advantage of working long term with leaded fuel which will clog oxygen sensors. EGT gauges are widely used to set mixture on engines used for steady state high power applications where operation has been carefully documented such as in aircraft. The choice would depend on the application. Both are better if you can afford them.
Wideband UEGO Controller + Gauge
I've read that A/F gauges are spotty, but I don't see the harm in knowing how your fuel supply is doing. If you start running lean and don't know it... *KA-BOOM!!*
Oil Temperature Gauge
It's a good idea to know how hot your oil is getting, especially since it's part of the cooling equation. By the time the stock gauge in your cluster tells you the motor is hot, it's waaaaaay too late. At a certain temperature your oil can start to break down as well. Normal driving will give you an idea as to what your normal operating temps are. As you start to push the car, you'll get a better idea as to what's considered 'normal' when you're pushing the car. That's the number you want to stay within.
Last edited by golgo13; Oct 10, 2011 at 10:08 PM.



