AEM and meth
Originally Posted by racegate
In other words I just feel the EGT would be too slow reacting to really rely on it as a saftey. I have monitoed EGT with fixed timing, and for a full AFR point swing EGT only changes by roughly 30deg C. Usually by the time you see the EGTs are too high, its too late, thats why I suggest AFR instead. With AFR say run 12.0:1 on Meth...you can trigger on something as low as 12.5:1 to catch the motor "on its way" to leaning out. That will work 100% faster than EGT, and provide better results.
Definately like a good tech debate, and I will most likely have the pressure switch hooked up from the alkycontrol kit since it is there on the pump and it isn't hard to do at all. Do you have some settings inside the AEM for cutting boost, addding fuel, and cutting timing as the only ones I have seen are using the alt settings that are used for anti-lag, and I kinda wanted to use those for full throttle shifting and keeping boost up between shifts.
Last edited by kcevo; Jul 18, 2005 at 09:07 AM.
Chad, yeah, the testing was done with a multi-probe, open element fast reacting Heraeus EGT system. Its a very good EGT system (probe is like the fast acting RTD AEM EGT), datalogging, solution trigger, etc. Even with that, the EGT changes I observed were very minor compared to the quick AFR change from shutting the Meth off. I actually tested it on a car I had a while ago which already had a blown HG, so I was able to do some "experimenting" since I was going to chnage the HG anyway.
The EGT definitely changes MUCH slower compared to the AFR, and I was after the quickest trigger possible, since the sooner you catch it, the better off your motor will be...and by my testing that was AFR. The K-type thermocouples are mostly usless for this, agreed.
I'm definitely interested in hearing your observations with the AEM EGT sensor.
Using the ALT is the quick/dirty way. If you want to keep ALT....there are a couple of ways to do it. You can couple the pressure switch with an AFR latch to raise your boost, and feed that as your hi/lo boost switch and just tune your high boost regions (fuel & timing) assuming the meth will be on. It should never reach high boost w/o the pump spraying AND the nozzle not being clogged so there is no worry of any damage. Or you can use the nitrous maps to take away fuel, add timing on a base fuel map. Caveat with that is you acn only go -50% on the nitrous map, so on a BIG hit of methanol with big inj, it may not be enough adjustment. Couple of ways to do it depending on how you want to approach it.
The EGT definitely changes MUCH slower compared to the AFR, and I was after the quickest trigger possible, since the sooner you catch it, the better off your motor will be...and by my testing that was AFR. The K-type thermocouples are mostly usless for this, agreed.I'm definitely interested in hearing your observations with the AEM EGT sensor.
Using the ALT is the quick/dirty way. If you want to keep ALT....there are a couple of ways to do it. You can couple the pressure switch with an AFR latch to raise your boost, and feed that as your hi/lo boost switch and just tune your high boost regions (fuel & timing) assuming the meth will be on. It should never reach high boost w/o the pump spraying AND the nozzle not being clogged so there is no worry of any damage. Or you can use the nitrous maps to take away fuel, add timing on a base fuel map. Caveat with that is you acn only go -50% on the nitrous map, so on a BIG hit of methanol with big inj, it may not be enough adjustment. Couple of ways to do it depending on how you want to approach it.
Originally Posted by racegate
Chad, yeah, the testing was done with a multi-probe, open element fast reacting Heraeus EGT system. Its a very good EGT system (probe is like the fast acting RTD AEM EGT), datalogging, solution trigger, etc. Even with that, the EGT changes I observed were very minor compared to the quick AFR change from shutting the Meth off. I actually tested it on a car I had a while ago which already had a blown HG, so I was able to do some "experimenting" since I was going to chnage the HG anyway.
The EGT definitely changes MUCH slower compared to the AFR, and I was after the quickest trigger possible, since the sooner you catch it, the better off your motor will be...and by my testing that was AFR. The K-type thermocouples are mostly usless for this, agreed.
I'm definitely interested in hearing your observations with the AEM EGT sensor.
Using the ALT is the quick/dirty way. If you want to keep ALT....there are a couple of ways to do it. You can couple the pressure switch with an AFR latch to raise your boost, and feed that as your hi/lo boost switch and just tune your high boost regions (fuel & timing) assuming the meth will be on. It should never reach high boost w/o the pump spraying AND the nozzle not being clogged so there is no worry of any damage. Or you can use the nitrous maps to take away fuel, add timing on a base fuel map. Caveat with that is you acn only go -50% on the nitrous map, so on a BIG hit of methanol with big inj, it may not be enough adjustment. Couple of ways to do it depending on how you want to approach it.
The EGT definitely changes MUCH slower compared to the AFR, and I was after the quickest trigger possible, since the sooner you catch it, the better off your motor will be...and by my testing that was AFR. The K-type thermocouples are mostly usless for this, agreed.I'm definitely interested in hearing your observations with the AEM EGT sensor.
Using the ALT is the quick/dirty way. If you want to keep ALT....there are a couple of ways to do it. You can couple the pressure switch with an AFR latch to raise your boost, and feed that as your hi/lo boost switch and just tune your high boost regions (fuel & timing) assuming the meth will be on. It should never reach high boost w/o the pump spraying AND the nozzle not being clogged so there is no worry of any damage. Or you can use the nitrous maps to take away fuel, add timing on a base fuel map. Caveat with that is you acn only go -50% on the nitrous map, so on a BIG hit of methanol with big inj, it may not be enough adjustment. Couple of ways to do it depending on how you want to approach it.
Right, now I am still dealing with a dead beat on getting my cylinder head back so I can go about my tuning. You can send it to chad_charlton@hotmail.com
Thanks
Chad, not a problem. I have set this up on other cars, but not an EVO. We will be setting it up on Luis (VTECH8TR's car), so I'll be writing up something detailing how to do this using EVO specific AEM inputs/outputs, extra parts needed, and a sample cal file to set it up so anyone can do it. Also from then on, any EVO that comes to get tuned by me with alky will get this saftey for free. If I can save atleast 1 motor from methanol failure, I think my R&D efforts on the EVO will be worth it and can benefit the community as a whole. Will be happy to send you cal and help you set it up once its fully tested on an EVO app!
Last edited by racegate; Jul 18, 2005 at 10:02 AM.
The SMC kit has the pressure switch at the top of the pump as well, I had planned on hooking it up to the AEM also but if you are already doing this please share so I can have some extra piece of mind as well. Thanks!
Originally Posted by GTVEVO
The SMC kit has the pressure switch at the top of the pump as well, I had planned on hooking it up to the AEM also but if you are already doing this please share so I can have some extra piece of mind as well. Thanks!
But, that will only give you 50% protection. It won't protect against a clogged nozzle. You need the full blown protection along with the AFR latch for that (still finalizing the I/O settings on an EVO for that). But its worth noting that pump failure is probably a lot more common than a nozzle clogging up. Some saftey is better then no saftey! Let me know the specifics of how your AEM is mapped for alky, your boost control strategy, and I can help you out.
/vijay
Last edited by racegate; Jul 18, 2005 at 01:32 PM.
Originally Posted by racegate
I can help you with that. Are you controlling boost through the AEM? An MBC, EBC? Even if you are not controlling boost through the AEM, you can wire in a saftey by reverse wiring a cheap automotive relay to power your boost controller when the pump pressurizes. I did this on a customer's car that did not use AEM for boost control.
But, that will only give you 50% protection. It won't protect against a clogged nozzle. You need the full blown protection along with the AFR latch for that (still finalizing the I/O settings on an EVO for that). But its worth noting that pump failure is probably a lot more common than a nozzle clogging up. Some saftey is better then no saftey! Let me know the specifics of how your AEM is mapped for alky, your boost control strategy, and I can help you out.
/vijay
But, that will only give you 50% protection. It won't protect against a clogged nozzle. You need the full blown protection along with the AFR latch for that (still finalizing the I/O settings on an EVO for that). But its worth noting that pump failure is probably a lot more common than a nozzle clogging up. Some saftey is better then no saftey! Let me know the specifics of how your AEM is mapped for alky, your boost control strategy, and I can help you out.
/vijay
I don't use Boost comp in my maps either becuase I like to get the most resolution as possible during spoolup and a good complete/consistant tune and I have had the best luck with this while on the 91oct + alky also. I don't get to crazy with street tunes becuase things do happen but basically right now I spool up at low boost 12.5 then to 12.0 once above 12.5 psi and fall down to mid 11.s on top. Running a GT3076 turbo.
I had considered doing this safety feature as well just haven't had the time to start to figure it out, I also plan on moving the spray light to be activated in the dash as well. Any help would be appreciated once you guys get it figured out so thanks in advance.
Last edited by GTVEVO; Jul 18, 2005 at 02:44 PM.
No prob I can assist you with protecting against pump failure, as I have tried and tested that on an EVO already. How does the pressure switch in the SMC pump work? If you can find that out from SMC, I can tell you how to wire it up and configure the calibration in the AEM.
I haven't dealt with an SMC kit before, only Shurflo based ones, so I want to be 100% sure of how the SMC's pressure switch operates before giving you instructions. Looking at their website, their pump looks different than the Shurflo. So if you can find that out, let me know and we can go from there.
/vijay
[ EDIT: I emailed Steve @ SMC myself. I'll see what he says and post a reply based on his description of how the SMC pressure switch works. ]
I haven't dealt with an SMC kit before, only Shurflo based ones, so I want to be 100% sure of how the SMC's pressure switch operates before giving you instructions. Looking at their website, their pump looks different than the Shurflo. So if you can find that out, let me know and we can go from there.
/vijay
[ EDIT: I emailed Steve @ SMC myself. I'll see what he says and post a reply based on his description of how the SMC pressure switch works. ]
Last edited by racegate; Jul 18, 2005 at 04:06 PM.
GTVEVO- I got a reply from Steve @ SMC. The pressure switch on his pump works just like the Shurflo-- completes a circuit to ground when there is no pressure, and is OPEN when the pump pressurizes.
So...assuming your car is tuned fine to run w/o methanol at your WG spring pressure, and you are turning your alky on a bit before your WG spring pressure you can do like this-- buy a SPDT automotive relay (std relay that you use to run foglights,etc...make sure it has pins 87 and 87a, and not two 87 pins though!), and wire it to your boost controller as follows:
Pin 85 - 12+
Pin 30 - ground wire of your *BOOST CONTROLLER*
Pin 87A - GND
Pin 87 - NC (no connect)
Pin 86 - Pressure switch on pump
The pressure switch works backwards, and thats why you have to invert the logic on the relay. That should basically turn on your boost controller ONLY when the pump is up to pressure. That way, if the pump fails, your boost controller will stay off giving you low boost only (WG spring). Make sure your low boost region is tuned for no methanol, and this should work w/o issues.
Hope this helps.
/vijay
So...assuming your car is tuned fine to run w/o methanol at your WG spring pressure, and you are turning your alky on a bit before your WG spring pressure you can do like this-- buy a SPDT automotive relay (std relay that you use to run foglights,etc...make sure it has pins 87 and 87a, and not two 87 pins though!), and wire it to your boost controller as follows:
Pin 85 - 12+
Pin 30 - ground wire of your *BOOST CONTROLLER*
Pin 87A - GND
Pin 87 - NC (no connect)
Pin 86 - Pressure switch on pump
The pressure switch works backwards, and thats why you have to invert the logic on the relay. That should basically turn on your boost controller ONLY when the pump is up to pressure. That way, if the pump fails, your boost controller will stay off giving you low boost only (WG spring). Make sure your low boost region is tuned for no methanol, and this should work w/o issues.
Hope this helps.
/vijay
Originally Posted by racegate
GTVEVO- I got a reply from Steve @ SMC. The pressure switch on his pump works just like the Shurflo-- completes a circuit to ground when there is no pressure, and is OPEN when the pump pressurizes.
So...assuming your car is tuned fine to run w/o methanol at your WG spring pressure, and you are turning your alky on a bit before your WG spring pressure you can do like this-- buy a SPDT automotive relay (std relay that you use to run foglights,etc...make sure it has pins 87 and 87a, and not two 87 pins though!), and wire it to your boost controller as follows:
Pin 85 - 12+
Pin 30 - ground wire of your *BOOST CONTROLLER*
Pin 87A - GND
Pin 87 - NC (no connect)
Pin 86 - Pressure switch on pump
The pressure switch works backwards, and thats why you have to invert the logic on the relay. That should basically turn on your boost controller ONLY when the pump is up to pressure. That way, if the pump fails, your boost controller will stay off giving you low boost only (WG spring). Make sure your low boost region is tuned for no methanol, and this should work w/o issues.
Hope this helps.
/vijay
So...assuming your car is tuned fine to run w/o methanol at your WG spring pressure, and you are turning your alky on a bit before your WG spring pressure you can do like this-- buy a SPDT automotive relay (std relay that you use to run foglights,etc...make sure it has pins 87 and 87a, and not two 87 pins though!), and wire it to your boost controller as follows:
Pin 85 - 12+
Pin 30 - ground wire of your *BOOST CONTROLLER*
Pin 87A - GND
Pin 87 - NC (no connect)
Pin 86 - Pressure switch on pump
The pressure switch works backwards, and thats why you have to invert the logic on the relay. That should basically turn on your boost controller ONLY when the pump is up to pressure. That way, if the pump fails, your boost controller will stay off giving you low boost only (WG spring). Make sure your low boost region is tuned for no methanol, and this should work w/o issues.
Hope this helps.
/vijay
Sure thing thanks. I will post results once I get a chance to test things out.
Whats the best way to run the SMC kit to AEMEMS controlling boost through GM solenoid? I'll be tuning it with alky coming on around 17 and maxing at 20. I'd like the EMS to shift maps to a safe boost level below 17 to avoid the threshold. Could I use the stock SMC pressure (open-on) switch in some way? I'd also like a manual switch in the cockpit to switch to the safe no-spray map if I get nervous for ANY reason. (Lean WB, high EGT, funny sound, valet parking... random fear etc.)
Originally Posted by FlyNavy
Whats the best way to run the SMC kit to AEMEMS controlling boost through GM solenoid? I'll be tuning it with alky coming on around 17 and maxing at 20. I'd like the EMS to shift maps to a safe boost level below 17 to avoid the threshold. Could I use the stock SMC pressure (open-on) switch in some way? I'd also like a manual switch in the cockpit to switch to the safe no-spray map if I get nervous for ANY reason. (Lean WB, high EGT, funny sound, valet parking... random fear etc.)
Gives you 2 protections...doesn't raise the boost unless the alky is spraying...and doesn't remove fuel unless the alky is spraying. Works great. Just put a master switch on the main power line, and you have a master on/off with the saftey. Switch off = low boost , gas....switch on = AEM automatically raises boost when alky turns on, removes fuel, etc.....and its all seamless. Works great, I setup all the cars with this that I tune with alky. Setup properly in the AEM its all automatic, and you can use the master switch to just run w/o alky and AEM will have proper mapping. The SMC pressure switch sort of works backwards so you need to invert the logic in the AEM, but thats it.
Hope this helps.
Last edited by racegate; Jul 20, 2005 at 02:12 PM.
Originally Posted by racegate
If you are using an alkycontrol kit, or any kit that uses the shurflo pump, that functionality for a saftey pressure switch is already there. You just need to wire it into the AEM, and configure the inputs/outputs.
I've been setting up alky kits with 100% safteys and AEMs for 2 years now. Works flawlessly. Just ask Knyght on this board. 
Using EGT is kind of a hack...the alky system itself needs to notify the ECU that it isn't spraying or is faulted.
I've been setting up alky kits with 100% safteys and AEMs for 2 years now. Works flawlessly. Just ask Knyght on this board. 
Using EGT is kind of a hack...the alky system itself needs to notify the ECU that it isn't spraying or is faulted.
420 at the wheels cant be wrong. And I got a nice lo boost / hi boost /w alky switch now
It's as easy as picking up the phone and calling the man, heh
Last edited by Knyght; Jul 22, 2005 at 07:12 AM.


