How sensitive is AEM EMS to mods?
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2011
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From: Philadelphia, PA
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,154
Likes: 5
From: Philadelphia, PA
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,154
Likes: 5
From: Philadelphia, PA
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,154
Likes: 5
From: Philadelphia, PA
On a serious note, I'd rather figure it out on my own. Delayed gratification. I've been learning tons about my whole car through this experience. Thus, it gives me more of an opportunity to help other enthusiasts attempting to figure things out themselves.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2011
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From: Philadelphia, PA
Like I said before, best bet would be to log everything once you get a cable to diagnose the problems.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2011
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From: Philadelphia, PA
I've never had personal experience with AEM, but I just cant see that being the problem. Obviously the new cams will change VE over the old BC sticks.. I'm sure you'll get it figured out though.
Like I said before, best bet would be to log everything once you get a cable to diagnose the problems.
Like I said before, best bet would be to log everything once you get a cable to diagnose the problems.
Do you have a WB in the car? See how it reads when you get it started again.
If it won't even start there is a problem with something. Could be lots of things, without even being able to connect to the EMS your limited on diagnosing.
If it won't even start there is a problem with something. Could be lots of things, without even being able to connect to the EMS your limited on diagnosing.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2011
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From: Philadelphia, PA
Ironically, the plug in the back of my wideband just melted. Things are really going well for me. I wish my cable would come already, or wish I could get a tuner to drop by.
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Joined: Aug 2011
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From: Philadelphia, PA
I have a big update!!!
-I verified the timing on the crank pulley. Everything was lined up at 0.
-I did a compression test: 185 185 195 185.
-The plugs were literally soaked. I made sure I dried them off before reinstall.
-I retarded both the intake and exhaust cam 4 degrees: Started right up and ran great.
-I fixed my AFR gauge. At 1500rpm's it was reading 13.6, at 3000 rpms reading around 15.5. They were all over the place. I really think its tune related.
-I put the cams back to 0, and it started right up. It ran great.
-At 1500rpms, vacuum is at 4. At 3000rpms, vacuum is at 15.
-AFRs with the cams at 0 were 1500 were 13.7. 3000rps they were at 13.7 as well.
-I verified the timing on the crank pulley. Everything was lined up at 0.
-I did a compression test: 185 185 195 185.
-The plugs were literally soaked. I made sure I dried them off before reinstall.
-I retarded both the intake and exhaust cam 4 degrees: Started right up and ran great.
-I fixed my AFR gauge. At 1500rpm's it was reading 13.6, at 3000 rpms reading around 15.5. They were all over the place. I really think its tune related.
-I put the cams back to 0, and it started right up. It ran great.
-At 1500rpms, vacuum is at 4. At 3000rpms, vacuum is at 15.
-AFRs with the cams at 0 were 1500 were 13.7. 3000rps they were at 13.7 as well.
Ya I'd say just get the tune fixed up and you should be good.
None of those AFR's would not let the car idle unless your timing is off which it is now but who knows what it was before.
Where do you live? Did you get in contact with petey?
None of those AFR's would not let the car idle unless your timing is off which it is now but who knows what it was before.
Where do you live? Did you get in contact with petey?






