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How sensitive is AEM EMS to mods?

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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 05:26 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by sc00by
Also decent shops charge what, $200 to change cams?
What's your point?
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 05:27 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by KJS1820
There should be 2 tabs on that cam pickup bolted to the end of that cam one small and one large. but if you are running the trigger disc the larger tab would be cut off
Ah that is what I was trying to find out! Thank you.
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 05:50 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by sc00by
Also decent shops charge what, $200 to change cams?
LOL... it's called trial and error and wanting to DIY. lots of people like that route to get the know how and save their wallets some cash!
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 06:06 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by forc3 f3d
LOL... it's called trial and error and wanting to DIY. lots of people like that route to get the know how and save their wallets some cash!
Some people just don't get it.
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Old Nov 10, 2011 | 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Blue91lx
Some people just don't get it.

Some people don't understand the theory of opportunity cost either. How many hours have been spent on this simple job? What else could you have been doing with that time?
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Old Nov 10, 2011 | 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by sc00by
Some people don't understand the theory of opportunity cost either. How many hours have been spent on this simple job? What else could you have been doing with that time?
Yeah, that's true. F*ck yourself.
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Old Nov 10, 2011 | 02:08 PM
  #37  
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On a serious note, I'd rather figure it out on my own. Delayed gratification. I've been learning tons about my whole car through this experience. Thus, it gives me more of an opportunity to help other enthusiasts attempting to figure things out themselves.
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Old Nov 10, 2011 | 04:16 PM
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The best way to learn is doing it yourself. Not to mention you take more pride in your car as well!

Have fun spending money on shops to build your car scooby! LOL
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Old Nov 10, 2011 | 04:20 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by forc3 f3d
The best way to learn is doing it yourself. Not to mention you take more pride in your car as well!

Have fun spending money on shops to build your car scooby! LOL
I still think this is tune related anyway, which makes his statements even less relevant.
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Old Nov 10, 2011 | 04:25 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Blue91lx
I still think this is tune related anyway, which makes his statements even less relevant.
I've never had personal experience with AEM, but I just cant see that being the problem. Obviously the new cams will change VE over the old BC sticks.. I'm sure you'll get it figured out though.

Like I said before, best bet would be to log everything once you get a cable to diagnose the problems.
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Old Nov 10, 2011 | 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by forc3 f3d
I've never had personal experience with AEM, but I just cant see that being the problem. Obviously the new cams will change VE over the old BC sticks.. I'm sure you'll get it figured out though.

Like I said before, best bet would be to log everything once you get a cable to diagnose the problems.
The reason why it would be the issue is that EMS is Speed Density and thus works off of Manifold Pressure, rather than Mass Airflow. Thus, the increased lift and duration will change the Manifold Pressure a lot. Also due to this, the computer does a lot less "working around" mods and is very specific to exactly what's on your car, hence why it makes more power. Like I've said before, the timing is spot on, and I've gone back through and checked everything 3 times.
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Old Nov 10, 2011 | 06:32 PM
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Do you have a WB in the car? See how it reads when you get it started again.

If it won't even start there is a problem with something. Could be lots of things, without even being able to connect to the EMS your limited on diagnosing.
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by project_skyline
Do you have a WB in the car? See how it reads when you get it started again.

If it won't even start there is a problem with something. Could be lots of things, without even being able to connect to the EMS your limited on diagnosing.
Ironically, the plug in the back of my wideband just melted. Things are really going well for me. I wish my cable would come already, or wish I could get a tuner to drop by.
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Old Nov 12, 2011 | 11:17 AM
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I have a big update!!!

-I verified the timing on the crank pulley. Everything was lined up at 0.
-I did a compression test: 185 185 195 185.
-The plugs were literally soaked. I made sure I dried them off before reinstall.
-I retarded both the intake and exhaust cam 4 degrees: Started right up and ran great.
-I fixed my AFR gauge. At 1500rpm's it was reading 13.6, at 3000 rpms reading around 15.5. They were all over the place. I really think its tune related.
-I put the cams back to 0, and it started right up. It ran great.
-At 1500rpms, vacuum is at 4. At 3000rpms, vacuum is at 15.
-AFRs with the cams at 0 were 1500 were 13.7. 3000rps they were at 13.7 as well.
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Old Nov 12, 2011 | 11:51 AM
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Ya I'd say just get the tune fixed up and you should be good.

None of those AFR's would not let the car idle unless your timing is off which it is now but who knows what it was before.

Where do you live? Did you get in contact with petey?
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