AEM EMS Series 1 to Series 2
AEM EMS Series 1 to Series 2
Has anyone successfully transferred a series 1 calibration to a series 2 EMS? I've tried the conversion scripts, which don't work. I've also started with the correct 30-6310 startup calibration, moved each and every table over from my series 1 calibration, and my car simply won't run on the series 2. The car cranks, sputters a bit, but won't actually idle or stay running.
Nothing on my car has changed since it was tuned on the series 1.
Am I missing something, or will a series 1 calibration simply not run the same in a series 2 box? I figured it would at least be close...I didn't think it wouldn't even start.
Nothing on my car has changed since it was tuned on the series 1.
Am I missing something, or will a series 1 calibration simply not run the same in a series 2 box? I figured it would at least be close...I didn't think it wouldn't even start.
The hardware is different enough that most of the settings won't be very useful to you after your move over. If anything, I'd copy the ignition map over, MAKING SURE that your breakpoints are the same FIRST.
In order to even consider using your fuel values from the Series I, you'd have to make sure that the "Microsec/bit" value is the same between both, and that the option "LD0MPC" is set to 255 in the Series I. If it's set to any value other than 255, then you've selected "optimise fuel map" at some point and.. god help you. Just tune the thing again on the Series II, it's not that hard
Oh and make sure to turn "Crank Inject All" to OFF under the Start tab.
Beau
In order to even consider using your fuel values from the Series I, you'd have to make sure that the "Microsec/bit" value is the same between both, and that the option "LD0MPC" is set to 255 in the Series I. If it's set to any value other than 255, then you've selected "optimise fuel map" at some point and.. god help you. Just tune the thing again on the Series II, it's not that hard
Oh and make sure to turn "Crank Inject All" to OFF under the Start tab.Beau
The hardware is different enough that most of the settings won't be very useful to you after your move over. If anything, I'd copy the ignition map over, MAKING SURE that your breakpoints are the same FIRST.
In order to even consider using your fuel values from the Series I, you'd have to make sure that the "Microsec/bit" value is the same between both, and that the option "LD0MPC" is set to 255 in the Series I. If it's set to any value other than 255, then you've selected "optimise fuel map" at some point and.. god help you. Just tune the thing again on the Series II, it's not that hard
Oh and make sure to turn "Crank Inject All" to OFF under the Start tab.
Beau
In order to even consider using your fuel values from the Series I, you'd have to make sure that the "Microsec/bit" value is the same between both, and that the option "LD0MPC" is set to 255 in the Series I. If it's set to any value other than 255, then you've selected "optimise fuel map" at some point and.. god help you. Just tune the thing again on the Series II, it's not that hard
Oh and make sure to turn "Crank Inject All" to OFF under the Start tab.Beau
I tried my best, but simply couldn't get the car running on the Series 2.
So, I swapped my Series 1 back in - car fired right up and ran just fine. I plan to drive the car to a tuner on the Series 1, and have it tuned professionally on the Series 2.
So, I swapped my Series 1 back in - car fired right up and ran just fine. I plan to drive the car to a tuner on the Series 1, and have it tuned professionally on the Series 2.
I've heard mixed feelings on this. I think the general consensus is that if you have a series 1, stick with it. If you don't own an AEM EMS at all, buy a series 2. The series 2 is supposed to get a firmware update sometime soon with flex fuel control, improved knock control, and some additional engine protection features. However, the firmware release keeps getting delayed.
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I have wondered this as well. I bought the car with V1 but coming from a nearly stock SR20 240sx going ot this, its nearly undriveable as far as I'm concerned.
Though I think I may need to run a better ground to the front of the car and not keep it grounded to the spare tire hole in the trunk...
my biggest complaint is I can't turn the TPS sensitivity up enough to work properly, and the idle is just freaking terrible. some times the high idle will catch and the other 80% of the time the car falls to its death when out of gear. I hate this thing. Putting it back to the stock ecu will take a lot of work for me too.
Though I think I may need to run a better ground to the front of the car and not keep it grounded to the spare tire hole in the trunk...
my biggest complaint is I can't turn the TPS sensitivity up enough to work properly, and the idle is just freaking terrible. some times the high idle will catch and the other 80% of the time the car falls to its death when out of gear. I hate this thing. Putting it back to the stock ecu will take a lot of work for me too.
Sounds like a bad tune. There is a thread here with how to tune your idle. Follow that. Also use the high idle offset. So that it will target a higher idle when coming to a stop sign and then idle down.
The series 2 firmware update is about 1 week away. They have already published the upgrade notes.
As for the original question, if you a series 1 and have the extra cash the series 2 is a very nice unit. You will have Engine fail safes, Flex Fuel support, and a ton of new items that make it 100% worth it. However if you don't have the cash stick with the series 1.
I have a Series 1 in the evo and a series 2 in the sti, I don't have a problem using either of them. I just like the USB on the series 2 much better.
Series 2 update info:
http://forum.aempower.com/forum/inde...c,29417.0.html
Quote from AEM:
"How does sometime between now and August 7th sound? That's the day I leave for Speed Week at Bonneville. Come hell or high water, I'm releasing the new firmware by then."
The series 2 firmware update is about 1 week away. They have already published the upgrade notes.
As for the original question, if you a series 1 and have the extra cash the series 2 is a very nice unit. You will have Engine fail safes, Flex Fuel support, and a ton of new items that make it 100% worth it. However if you don't have the cash stick with the series 1.
I have a Series 1 in the evo and a series 2 in the sti, I don't have a problem using either of them. I just like the USB on the series 2 much better.
Series 2 update info:
http://forum.aempower.com/forum/inde...c,29417.0.html
Quote from AEM:
"How does sometime between now and August 7th sound? That's the day I leave for Speed Week at Bonneville. Come hell or high water, I'm releasing the new firmware by then."
Yeah I've been reading it in my down time, my 5 bar map isn't helping anything. About to put my 3.5 bar on for a bit better resolution too. Thanks for the thought though!
If I can't get this to work I may look into a V2 for my new build..
If I can't get this to work I may look into a V2 for my new build..
I have wondered this as well. I bought the car with V1 but coming from a nearly stock SR20 240sx going ot this, its nearly undriveable as far as I'm concerned.
Though I think I may need to run a better ground to the front of the car and not keep it grounded to the spare tire hole in the trunk...
my biggest complaint is I can't turn the TPS sensitivity up enough to work properly, and the idle is just freaking terrible. some times the high idle will catch and the other 80% of the time the car falls to its death when out of gear. I hate this thing. Putting it back to the stock ecu will take a lot of work for me too.
Though I think I may need to run a better ground to the front of the car and not keep it grounded to the spare tire hole in the trunk...
my biggest complaint is I can't turn the TPS sensitivity up enough to work properly, and the idle is just freaking terrible. some times the high idle will catch and the other 80% of the time the car falls to its death when out of gear. I hate this thing. Putting it back to the stock ecu will take a lot of work for me too.
Don
I've heard mixed feelings on this. I think the general consensus is that if you have a series 1, stick with it. If you don't own an AEM EMS at all, buy a series 2. The series 2 is supposed to get a firmware update sometime soon with flex fuel control, improved knock control, and some additional engine protection features. However, the firmware release keeps getting delayed.
I'd say so. You can sell you Series 1 or call AEM tech support and do their trade-up program. It ends up being about ~$950ish for the Series 2 instead of the ~$1700 street price. You get a brand new Series 2 kit in box with warranty.
Thanks for the reply 99, but I might just stick with the series 1 for now based on some of the things that I have read concerning the series 2. I am currently running Ecuflash and just want to switch things up a bit to gain better drivability along with a few other things.









