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Hmmm I'm on a big northstar with 740 cca. Thanks for the info it is good to hear that you had a decent start up on stock trigger disk and infinity. Ya this startup is my priority as of now and then e85 will follow
I'm going to look into the 12 tooth. What are your views on removing the balance shaft? Seems promising that yours has been out for so long. Is it your DD?
I have not had balance shafts for so long I don't even know what they would feel like. I drive the evo about 30miles a day. I also road race it when I have time. I don't mind lots of vibration and noise.
I would say work on your tune and your cold starts and get them as fast as possible first then consider the 12 tooth. As soon as your car hits the sync event it should fire up almost right away. If that is not happening then you need some more tuning.
Ya it starts pretty soon after but can be worked on to improve. Thats reassuring to hear that you drive so much as a daily. I started getting cold feet about the balance shaft delete after reading jacks transmissions post and others about all these things that can happen and clutch drag and oil pressure defect and even bolts vibrating loose lol. Thanks again for the info boz
ensure good voltage while cranking and even with the stock disc it shouldn't be to bad (as stated as soon as sync happens it should fire or you need more tuning).
I am also a big fan of the shaved full length balance shaft (not cut/stubby) and have never had a problem on DD or any other with the shaved full length shafts.
AEM CD7 and CD5 have always been great options but in the last few years the Haltech IC7 dash and UC-10 dash have come a long way. With haltech releasing a software update opening up inputs and custom layout/dash designs these are a hard option to beet. The Motec C125 and C127 still offer the top tier motorsports functionality but they come at a price.
**as of 2025 I still have a CD5 and just picked up a Motec C125 (ro replace another cd5 i sold).
LCD color display allows complete user control of display
dont know if later aem is same in this regard but I had AEM version one which was horrible at starting. had it converted to 12 tooth trigger disc. was initially disappointed how it started after that. but then learned you have to turn ignition on and wait a few seconds before engaging starter. starts like stock. ecu needs a little time to run checks first. it wont sinc while its doing that.
dont know if later aem is same in this regard but I had AEM version one which was horrible at starting. had it converted to 12 tooth trigger disc. was initially disappointed how it started after that. but then learned you have to turn ignition on and wait a few seconds before engaging starter. starts like stock. ecu needs a little time to run checks first. it wont sinc while its doing that.
Interesting you mention the wait period before cranking, The only think I could think of that could impact the start-ability is the fuel pressure build at the rail, otherwise, it should not matter.
the delay at cranking is do to the Idle valve, i've seen it a few times now including on my VR4. No matter where i tell the idle valve to "park" it ends up closing and then takes a good 10-15 seconds to get to the right position again with the key on. (you can actually hear and feel the Idle valve doing this if you put your hand right on it.)
Many Evo guys still using the Infinity? Recently converted a few R34 GTR's to the 506 box with great results. (we are using PRP trigger kits on all 3 cars)