OFFTOPIC chat thread!
2 year ago I was still in highschool so I missed it oh well. Lol Lancer girl now you know how to get out of a ticket
ball your eyes out till they give in hmmmmm guys next time cop stop you ball you eyes out. wasabi works quite well
Well, hopefully I'll never get pulled over. I'm not much of a speeder but I'm sure they'll find some bogus excuse someday about too much graphics or something 
Speaking of which, I saw a silver lancer today and it had graphics too! not as extreme as mine but still... lol. Some old guy drivin' it though with his hoochie trophy wife.

Speaking of which, I saw a silver lancer today and it had graphics too! not as extreme as mine but still... lol. Some old guy drivin' it though with his hoochie trophy wife.
My car is full of scratches, chips, and rust. You'll get used to it. They don't stay perfect looking forever! lol
And its F-ing FREEZING out... it's not snowing here but it's mighty cold alright and will probably snow tomorrow.
And its F-ing FREEZING out... it's not snowing here but it's mighty cold alright and will probably snow tomorrow.
not really an explanation but if you are looking for a cheap/quick fix i bought this and it magically fixed everything
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...17#post6147617
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...17#post6147617
More about it is explained here
I prefer Option#3
Option 1: HID's are ON with switch in Position 1, 2 or 3 (no flicker)
1) Buy an HID kit that has a wiring harness AND relay (most of them nowadays do)
2) Install everything as normal in the HID kit including wiring the remote turn on lead to the factory 9006 bulb harness
3) Remove relay from socket and use a voltmeter to measure the polarity in the relay socket on pins 85 and 86 to see which is positive and which is negative (when the headlight switch is in the ON position) - for mine, terminal 86 was positive and terminal 85 was negative
4) Buy an Electrolytic, Polarized Capacitor at Radio Shack or local electronics/stereo store 25V (or higher) and 2000uF (or higher)
user posted image
5) The capacitor has a marking down the side indicating which terminal is negative
6) Solder the negative lead to the relay lead you noted (in step 3) as negative and the positive lead to the relay lead you noted as positive
7) Insulate the exposed leads with electrical tape or shrink tubing so they don't short out
user posted image
8) Put the relay back in the socket
9) Test it all out!
**If your HID kit came with an extra 9006 Socket cable extension (as mine did), you can solder the capacitor in parallel with this cable INSTEAD of directly to the relay, then install this cable from the factory 9006 harness to the HID remote turn-on lead:
user posted image
user posted image
1) Buy an HID kit that has a wiring harness AND relay (most of them nowadays do)
2) Install everything as normal in the HID kit including wiring the remote turn on lead to the factory 9006 bulb harness
3) Remove relay from socket and use a voltmeter to measure the polarity in the relay socket on pins 85 and 86 to see which is positive and which is negative (when the headlight switch is in the ON position) - for mine, terminal 86 was positive and terminal 85 was negative
4) Buy an Electrolytic, Polarized Capacitor at Radio Shack or local electronics/stereo store 25V (or higher) and 2000uF (or higher)
user posted image
5) The capacitor has a marking down the side indicating which terminal is negative
6) Solder the negative lead to the relay lead you noted (in step 3) as negative and the positive lead to the relay lead you noted as positive
7) Insulate the exposed leads with electrical tape or shrink tubing so they don't short out
user posted image
8) Put the relay back in the socket
9) Test it all out!
**If your HID kit came with an extra 9006 Socket cable extension (as mine did), you can solder the capacitor in parallel with this cable INSTEAD of directly to the relay, then install this cable from the factory 9006 harness to the HID remote turn-on lead:
user posted image
user posted image


