With 98 octane @ 24PSI and my timing still being tuned I was able to get 2 runs in. First was a 12.6 (with a funky light they gave me) my R/T was .960, my normal R/T time is .250-.310 so in my mind I believe that pass was good for at least a 12.3 (time slip below)

My next pass (like a dumb *** I lost the slip for) was a 12.31 with an R/T of 2.83, so are these times normal for my mods?

(Mods in sig)



Thanks

 

so you ran a 12.6. tune more and get back to us

 

More or less I am just asking am I ball park for my mods? I am in a debit with myself about dumping the GM MAF and going back to stock. If these numbers are around the times I should be running (like I said my next pass was a 12.3) with the stock MAF then I am going to switch back.

Thx

 

Not really - that's a huge waste of money to run 12.3. You can run 12.3 in a IX with about $200 worth of mods. All your mods are high-dollar, low power-per-dollar mods. There is really no rhyme or reason to your mod list nor having a battery in the trunk. Do you actually have a shutoff switch going through the trunk of such a mildly-modded car? You can't run without one if the battery is in the trunk.

 

High dollar mods? Its not like I am rocking a bigger turbo / intercooler, If you ask me other then the MAFT my mods look like a lot of others on here.

So let me ask you this what times do you think I should be running on what I have?

Oh and the battery in the trunk is because I needed room under the hood for the maf. It’s not rocket science, just a battery re location kit from summit.

 

Just because they look a lot like others (other ricers), that doesn't mean they are good mods or that they are not high-dollar. The whole UICP and GM MAF was pretty useless - not sure why you did that except for maybe to run your expensive BOV in VTA form (all of which leads to nothing except making a lot of noise). The cat-back makes less power and costs more than most people's entire TBE - no need for an HKS downpipe that is less than 3" either (lot of money wasted on the exhaust, and it's less powerful than most others). You shouldn't need to move the battery if you get a normal Evo UICP or leave it stock. You can go WAYYY faster with the stock IC piping and intake, so that was a big waste of time and money there.

The fact that moving the battery is not rocket science has nothing to do with what I said. To legally run one in the battery, you have to have a battery shutoff switch accessible outside the trunk. Do you have such a thing on what is a regular car? Those things are usually only seen on full drag cars. If they are letting you run without it, then you're lucky, but don't expect it to last long.

For the money you've spent, you could be well into the 11s with a much faster Evo. For the actual mods you have, yes you can go another 3-4 tenths faster, assuming you actually ran the 12.3. Since your 12.6 is at 107, I am not sure how you also ran a 12.3, since that would require you to run at least another 3mph faster without changing anything. R/T has nothing to do with your time, so I'm not sure why you mentioned that you thought that first run would be a 12.3. I mean, don't you know the slightest thing about drag racing? Why would you think a 107mph run with a 1.83 60' would be even remotely close to a 12.3. I'm doubting you actually ran a 12.31 on the run where you magically lost the timeslip. Sorry.

 

Warrs right. You need to have a kill switch mounted externally. THe track you went to sounds like the inspectors are not doing their job properly.

 

Well your last post was at least informative; just wish you did not have to be so abrasive about it. The battery relocation kit came with a switch, that’s why it’s called a kit.

I thought I lost the 12.6 slip but I found it in my glove box and my speed on the 12.37 was 113, if you want to get all **** about look here: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=318209
That’s the log from my 12.3 and it shows my 113 at the end before power down...

I am not claiming to know it all, that’s why I am asking for help. My HKS downpipe I got for $100 used so IMHO its better then the stock one. I had the Tial BOV and MAFT setup from my old 2G, just bought the new controller and pipes. So it’s not like I have invested a ton of money into this, even thought that’s the first thing you accused me off without even bothering to ask some questions first.

Like I said thank for the input even thought I had to decrypt it from your sarcasm. Oh and this is my 3rd time at the track I do not know all the details about that as well so thanks for informing me about the R/T If I got a green light and sat there for 5 sec my reaction time would be 5.xx and my time would be plus 5.xx right?? I saw a car stall on the line and his R/T added to his end time. e.g. He was running 11.2 all night then when he salled and left 10.6 late his end time was 21.8.

 

Uh, what? That made no sense. Because it's called a "kit," that means it has a switch? Um, no. A kit can have all sorts of things and be called a kit. I also did not ask if it CAME with a switch. I asked if you actually have a lightly-modded street car with a battery kill switch sticking out of the trunk. That would be ridiculous just for the sake of running some strange UICP setup...

Trap speeds are an average speed between the last two boxes - logs don't show trap speeds, so it doesn't tell me anything. Earlier, you said it was a 12.31, now you say it's 12.37. Sorry, not buying it.

Doesn't matter if you tried to carry over parts from the 2G, there was no reason to do it, and it also doesn't matter if the HKS DP was $100. yes, it's better than the stocker, but not better than all other DPs out there, and they don't cost much more than $100. Then, the titanium cat-back still is a ton of money to gain nothing.

The mods you have can hit 12.0-12.1 on pump gas. You have a claimed 12.37 and proven 12.6 on race gas, which is poor. Keep trying at it.

 

Thank you for your suggestions

 

this should give you an idea of what you SHOULD be running. I have a Buschur turbo back exhaust, Manuel boost controller, Buschur intake, and a Flash. Stock clutch, turbo, cams, MAF, intercooler. BASIC MODS......11.9@115


BTW your reaction time has NOTHING to do w/ your ET.

 

Whats your Psi? Also who did your flash?

 

23psi, pump gas, and a friend, NO WIDEBAND....he did it all on knock counts until there was none. this is just until i install the innovate one that I bought.

When you saw the car stall thats because it moved when it stalled which tripped the time to start......If he had sat not moving for 5 sec. and then went it would have NO effect on his time.

 

tuning without a wideband is not smart. Desperate. And then running it hard at the track ...to each his own.

 

Get tune on race gas and you should hit high 11's with a good 60'.12.3 is not bad though