Confused.

This has happened on a track visit before the one you mention? With the same fresh clutch?

I stand by my opinion on the fork stop. Remember its just my opinion....

 

I understand. yes, its done this before as well, before I put the forkstop on. Same clutch.

 

I've seen this issue before. It's fine on the street because you're not getting the clutch hot; you're just doing pulls. At the track you're putting a lot of heat into the clutch at the launch, making it more susceptible to slipping in 4th.

The clutch fork stop will also create this same issue, so look into that as well. Let me know if there's anything I can help you with.

Devin

 

Well, this sucks. So I am looking into rebuilding a twin disc? I dont really have the cash around for a rebuild like that.

I put the clutch fork stop on after hearing stories of the clip coming off. Whats the deal there? Is it something that is just not really needed then? How is the stop causing it to slip? Im confused on that one lol.

Oh and Devin, 1250s are installed awaiting a startup map. I tried getting my rom into ecuflash. It just loads a base evo 9 rom. I dont see any of the tephra v7 options, so I am guessing its not my rom?? I changed the user status to the highest level to view all options too.

 

Your clutch IS SLIPPING. Get a quarter master clutch. There wayyyy cheaper to rebuild them compared to the exedy. With my experience. My exedy triple was a POS and waste of
Money. Haven't had any issues with my QM.

 

I will def look elsewhere for a clutch this time around. With my goals for now, I might be able to get by with the single disc act hdss. Ill look at the qm though. That seems to be THE clutch to run in dsm anymore lol.

 

With the ACT your gonna get the infamous high rpm shift lockout.

 

When properly installed the bolt head on the clutch fork stop should be approx. 1/8" to 1/4" away from the clutch fork at rest. As the clutch wears this distance is reduced and the fork stop can hit the fork, especially if the fork stop was installed with too small of a gap to begin with. This prevents the clutch from fully disengaging which will cause the clutch to get hot. Boltz is saying that you may not notice this until the clutch slips badly. It's worth checking to see if your clutch fork stop is still installed properly or if it needs to be adjusted.

Dan (drb)

 

For what it's worth:

I have had the ACT HDSS and I now have the XTSS. I haven't had any lock out issues with either clutch (only 1100 miles on the XTSS clutch), but I do have the SS braided clutch lines, shifter bushings, and solid motor mounts which all help prevent lock out.

HDSS = Rated at 510TQ at Flywheel (less 15 to 20% drive train loss) = 408 to 433 torque at wheels: The HDSS lasted for approximately 20,000 miles (mostly 380HP/350TQ Dynojet power level) and failed right after I installed the FP Green turbo. I don't consider that too bad.

XTSS = Rated at 565TQ at Flywheel (less 15 to 20% drive train loss) = 452 to 480 torque at wheels: I've only had this clutch installed for 1,200 miles, it was installed just after I installed the FP Green with some other mods. Dynojet numbers are approximately 520HP/430TQ. Took the car to the drag strip last weekend and launched it 7 times. We were smelling the clutch (organic disc) the whole night but it seemed to hold fine. The pedal pressure with the XTSS is somewhat harder than the HDSS, but it's not too bad. The XTSS grabs much harder when starting out in 1st gear, so it takes a bit of getting used to. I have no idea how long it will last, but so far so good

 

You have an email with the new SD map set up for the injectors. Unless you set up the rom definitions correctly for your map you will never be able to see the V7 options. Ill PM you with info on how to get it working correctly.

In my opinion the ACT is the best single disc clutch on the market, but I do perfer a nice QM. Anthony, I've got (2) QM 8 leg clutches left in stock, ill cut you a killer deal

Devin

 

I checked the fork stop. It is the same distance from the fork as when I installed it a month ago. I have looked around for clutches. This is going to be tough. Not sure whether I want to rebuild the twin, buy a new twin, or just go with the act single disc.

Luckily its getting cold out and my car will sit in the garage most of the time now. So I gues I can get started on a clutch job.

Devin, shoot me a pm on your pricing for the QM.

Im not seeing an email from you, Devin? Ajvanderberg@gmail.com.

Thanks

 

Sent it again, along with the 8 leg QM price. PM me if you have any issues.

Devin

 

Just as a heads up, keep in mind that the QM clutches on average require more frequent rebuilds than the Exedy's. The Exedy's easily warp the intermediate plate which can cause high rpm lockout which the QM wont do, but the QM will start slipping under power sooner than the Exedy.

I have a few extra Exedy discs that I can measure for you if you are interested in having it rebuilt on the cheap.

 

Yea, I guess I just need to rip the trans out and take a look at the exedy. If I can get by with just replacing the discs and not the int. plates. I will go this route. If the plates need replaced, I am gonna look into the ACT hdss. I drag the car but not often. I go to the 1/8 mile track 3 times a summer maybe. Not an every weekend thing lol.

 

How sure are you of this? Do you have this clutch or are you repeating what other idiots are posting on this board? I have an ACT HDSS, I shift at 7500rpm and have NEVER experience lockout. This is with both lifting and non lifting shifts. The ACT has its drawbacks compared to multy plate discs, but lockout is NOT one of them.