How to run mid-low 11's....
 

I went to the track the other day and watched a bunch of fully built domestics go 10.50-11.50's-12.50's and I was surprised at the amount of mods they needed to do so. It got me thinking instantly how fast my blue car really was for such limited amount of mods and how great the evo platform really is. This thread is for the newcomers who may never stumble upon my 3 year old post about my 11.50 runs with such few bolt ons. The info I am posting below is the exact parts it took me to run consistent 11.50's on a very safe 10.50-11.0 AFR 93 octane(1 gallon of 110) tune. This car was a full weight GSR with no weight reduction except for spare tire/ jack and passenger seat removed. Bumper beams, door beams, etc were never removed. This car had no port work, stock TB, stock intake manifold, stock exhaust manifold, stock cams, stock intercooler, stock trans, stock T/C, etc. All that is required is the Buschur stage 2 kit. Essentially intake, exhaust, and a flash...

Stage 1: $1419
BR EVOLUTION AIR FILTER KIT
BR EVOLUTION 3" STAINLESS STEEL DOWNPIPE
3" HIGHFLOW CATALYTIC CONVERTER- I used test pipe
BR EVOLUTION 3" STAINLESS STEEL CATBACK W/ MAGNAFLOW MUFFLER
BR MANUAL BOOST CONTROLLER
BUSCHUR FLASH-I used Dynoflash
AUTOMETER 30-0-30 BOOST GAUGE
COLUMN MOUNT GAUGE POD

Stage 2: $979
BR EVOLUTION MAF PIPE KIT
EVOLUTION ODYSSEY MINI BATTERY KIT
BR EVOLUTION UPPER I/C PIPE KIT w/ TiAL BOV-I used 1G and Forge RS

Both of these can be found for great deals and cheaper than I listed, but this is the average...
Tein S tech springs $208
Exedy Twin HD clutch $1500

Here were the results:
11.61, 11.56, 11.60, 11.66, 11.56, & 11.59

60' 1.631
330 4.752
1/8 7.391
mph 92.90
1000 9.648
1/4 11.563
mph 117.35

60' 1.595
330 4.721
1/8 7.375
mph 91.78
1000 9.647
1/4 11.568
mph 117.12

Now for the tiny details most leave out. To duplicate these results on a regular basis you will need to do a little more investing. The stock clutch did fine and netted some nice low 1.6 60' times, but failed quickly. My recommendation is any nice twin plate clutch( I used the Exedy Twin HD). Most can be bought for around $1500. The tires and wheels that were on the car at the time were Volk CE28's with Falken Azeni's. The stock tires and wheels performed right on par with the Volks at a tire pressure of 18psi. But, it is my recommendation to find a nice set of used BBS wheels and just mount a Falken Azeni on them. I also used Tein S Tech lowering springs in the mix. There are no secrets, that is everything that was on the car. These cars will run mid to low 11's very easily.

That was the past, fast forward to the present. The same car is now under new ownership. Both previous owners made multiple changes to the car and slowed it down into the 12's(12.40's to be exact). Chris contacted me for advice and I gave him what he needed. He quickly duplicated the 11.50's and then went on to run 11.15@124 with the addition of E85, bigger injectors, 65mm TB, and ported BR exhaust mani. So in short, if you want to run low 11's with a proven easy mod path this is what you'll need.

I took it another level and went into the 10's with my new RS. Same proven mod path, same proven Buschur parts. Just went with weight reduction, stand alone, and slicks. :mitsu:

If anyone wants any help or guidance shoot me a pm anytime. Hope this helps a few dip into the 11's. Have fun and be safe...

Here's the vid, its an oldie:):
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/1...-159_42949.htm

http://img523.imageshack.us/img523/3...fwl1atg3b7.jpg

My mods list is twice as long just about and I could only get 11.7's lol. My 60ft sucks. Great post man and glad you posted this!

two step setting and tire pressure's are critical. I liked 6500rpm and 18-20psi on street tires. 11.7 is still a great time. No problem, just trying to help others reach their goals.

My 2-step is at 6k with 20 front and 18 rear on fuzions.

well, the 6k may be a little low. But alot of it is driving style. I would step it up to at least 6400. I always launched at over 6500, but again it is a personal preference. Just gotta finesse the clutch foot. Dont want to break anything. What are your 60' times. Even on fuzions you should be able to get 1.6's.

Ive touched a 1.69 once at Montgomery but every other time has been nothing but low 1.7's

Your blue Evo looked great man! So you launched at 6500 with RT615s with 18-20 psi in the tires?? The couple times I have launched with my rt615s on the street I spun a lot and my 2 step is only at 6k...but that is also with 35psi in them for DD...I would imagine they would hook a bit better with only 20 psi in them....Thanks for all the other great info man...{thumbup}

1.7 is not bad Poncho, alot of guys on here average 1.9-2.0,has your twin disc help out with your launching?


and most-wanted,was your blue car an VIII or IX? its crazy how alot of guys get such great numbers will such little mods,and others with big turbos dont have as much success,im assuming its all in choosing parts wisley and good driving

yes it was a IX. There is a big difference between 35 psi and 20 psi believe me. I also run through the water box and do a mini burnout to get the rubber warm. I have had 4 evo's and all have been abused the same way and I have never (knock on wood) broken a drivetrain part. Chris who has very little time in the evo tried this set up and did a 1.60 60' I believe. The trick is to get a solid high rpm launch and perfect the 1-2 shift. As I said, this is just what I have found to work for me.

a little easier to hit those times with an IX vs. a VIII


MIVEC is nice.

Great post Most-Wanted, and I'm happy to finally hear someone recommending setting there two step to 6500+. I would drag race every weekend if it weren't for the lack of 1/4 tracks in So Cal, and your lucky to get 2-3 runs in a day on those that do exist! I went to the local 1/8 mile track a few months ago and my new E85 tune showed potential trapping 97.19(shifting to fourth) with a 1.8x short time and if my memory serves me right it was a 7.5. I never played with tire pressure, just wanted to see how it went down the track, and I have my two step at 6800. My biggest dilemma at this point is to look fore more power or have shep do his magic on the tranny.

VOLK CE28's required, those look hot

This is your best post ever!!

My vote is in to sticky it.

Now will it make any difference between the 8 and 9 as the times go....

nice post man

how much whp did you have when you ran the mid and low 11's?

Wow.. 1.59 sixty foot, that is great!

I'm still on the ACT 6 puck... Twin disc will be ordered next week after I settle with Shell. But that's another story..

Good info :thumbup:

Good write up Most Wanted

Very nice run with almost no mods ;)

My first time in the track was this last Saturday and I made terrible 1/4 mile times 13.83, 13.72, 13.68, I made like 5 passes. I was using the 2 step and I left it at 5000rmps, my tire pressure where 30psi, I wish I had this information earlier and I know I would have done better. My 60' where in the 2secs range all the time, my mods are on my signature. Looking forward to test this settings out. One thing I trap 108mph on one of those runs, my other MPH where 104, 103.

most important how much boost?

With the car under new ownership, was the 124 trap with stock IX gearing?

Thanks for all the kind words guys. I am just trying to help out. I know what its like to be stuck in the 12's, stuck in the 11's, stuck in the 10's, stuck in the 9's. I figure the least I can do is help people out with the short cuts. As for the specific questions. The 11.50's were done on a stock IX trans/TC and the boost was 23-24 psi. The 124 mph on the car with new ownership was on an evo VIII 3&4 gear. But I will have to look at my timeslips to see what I managed on stock IX gearing. As for the one question about 8 vs 9. These times are in reference to a IX, but many with 8's are changing to IX turbos and have the advantage of the 8 gearing. So it does get a little confusing, but still can be used as a great guideline. The boost also on the 124 was definitely more aggressive then the 23-24 psi I used for the 11.50's. I'd like to keep it a little simple and use my 11.50 as the baseline and for reference as it was my car at the time and have all info. We can obviosly move forward from there as I kept pushing the envelope on my RS. I got it to 10.80s stock block, stock head, etc. And then down to the 10.21@133 on a built motor. If anyone has a specific question send them over. I am going to slow down a little on my own car and try to help others out. I will be dynoing this week and make a few runs also, but that may be it for a while.

Yup, you wont be able to do much with the two step at 5k. My min recommendation is 6400 and raise the rev limiter to 8400:) Shift at around 7200 and run out fourth. The quicker the et generally the slower the mph... General rule... Your 60's should be 1.7 no problem and u should see 1.6's.

Estimated 375 dynojet... You have to remember this was 3 years ago. Long before 30 psi, E85, cams, Mivec tuning, etc....

LOL I am stuck at 12.0x....

Starting to piss me off. :lol:

pm me and we'll talk. 11's no problem....

What did the newer owners do to slow down the car so much?

They swapped parts for random brands and mix matched parts. I had taken some off some of the parts off before I traded it in. When the first buyer bought it he called me for advice after installing a few things. Car went 12.60-12.40. He never listened and sold it. Chris then bought it and had to buy parts too because the guy removed his. He also put some random parts in and the car went a best of 12's. I told him once what to do and he didnt listen. 12's continued. He called again and said I am redy to listen:) We went to awdmotorsports together, installed parts, and instant 11's. A big factor was the tune. I used dynoflash with great results back in the day on the blue car, I also had great results with Scott at TTP with the white RS, and he is using DIIRK with great results. I am now in my opinion using the best tuner in the country for stand alone- Crispeed:) The parts combination is critical but obviously so is the tune.

is the art to no drivetrain breakages just getting the "bite" then lift that pedal as fast as your leg allows without side stepping?
do you actually have car movement before the fast clutch release?
:beer:

The idea for me is to avoid dry hops. Slicks are best for that reason. But on a street tire I have found if you leave with excessive rpms you dont seem to encounter dry hops. If anything you just get tire spin. But yes, I already have movement on the car before complete release of the clutch. It is also very important to load the trans/tc with pressure. So basically you want to start releasing the clutch until you feel the car trying to inch forward. Once you reach that point hold it there. Then full accelerator pedal to obtain the two step and then quick slip when your ready to leave. It definitely takes a bit of practice getting everything coordinated. But as I said, I havent broken anything yet and I am launching at 7k plus now. So in short, yes-You never ever want to just dump the clutch or side step. 9 out of 10 you'll either break something or just bog anyways with side stepping. The key is to keep the rpms up around 6500 or above. Thats also where the highest hp numbers are. Its always a good idea to review dyno charts to help with shift points. My optimum shift points may not be yours....

{thumbup}^
altho sounds like a receipe for wheel spin? if so you have to get grip another way i.e don't change that launch method but lower tyre pressures / warm tires before the run ?

100% correct and a given. Tire pressure need to be lowered and tires need to be warm. I always run through the water pit and heat the tires up even on street tires. It also cleans the debris off them. People think driving around the water pit and not heating street tires is best, but what they dont realize is when you drive around you are picking up all kinds of dirt, debris, etc. Tire pressure absolutely need to be reduced down to around 20 psi. Again this is just what seems to work best for me.

We appreciate your words. There is a little timeframe missing though it seems with the RS down to 11.01 @ 125mph before moving to standalone.

I give credit where its due and the car always ran perfect with your tune's:) Lots of info to keep straight as the car has changed so much over the year. But yes, the car ran consistent 11.0's on C16 before any significant mods. I was trying to stay away from documenting the RS because of the extensive mods the car has seen over time and not to make it a look at me thread:). I really just wanted to show how easy these cars can run 11.50's with minumum mods and a good tune. Whether it be on meth, race gas, or E85. No doubt 10's are realistic as a few of us have shown. But I think the majority of evo owners are looking to spend as little as possible, do little to no weight reduction, and are trying for 11's. Thats why I was referencing the blue IX I used to own. I have no problems discussing my RS in detail if people want to go there. I have made a ton of mistakes, learned alot, failed alot, broke records, lost records, hurt peoples feelings, wanted to sell it, wanted to burn it, etc to get the car where it is now. The car is almost done again for its next round and I am thinking the car will stay in that configuration for quite a while. I just want to enjoy the set up for now. Anyways, I would just like to help others avoid such a roller coaster ride.

slight off topic Q. are your usdm evo's 2 step clutch actuated or wheel speed?
our jdm's here in the uk are speed actuated.
and 2 step isn't "launch control" that can build full boost is it?
i.e my 2 step only builds 8-10psi! correct?

I would think both because the two step doesnt get triggered when shifting while the car is rolling. I know there is a button that needs to be depressed by the pedal. But I am thinking there is something else in the ecu that restricts it from being activated while shifting. Not 100% on this. But in short, I do know the clutch pedal activates it. I definitely build boost on the two step.

Ok a few q's for the pro,

How are you doing your burnout if your 2 step is set @ 6500? do you let it overshoot to 8k and then dump the clutch to get the tires to spin? I've done my fair share of FWD 3rd gear burnouts, but I'm a bit weary of being that abusive.

Did you retune the map where your car runs on the 2step to produce more heat/boost? retard timing and run rich? Do you have any suggestions as to how much timing advance you would suggest @ 6500+

Did you find that by the time you had the clutch all the way out you essentially had to depress it again to shift into 2nd? In both of my successful launches I found that I held a pretty steady RPM until I was fully engaged.

Thanks!

My timing is set to 4 advance from 120 load to 160 load and from 5k to 6500. Hope this helps!

Also I usually just bounce of the 2 step until it starts to build boost and then pop the clutch until the wheels start to spin. The first one usually is the easiest but after I do a few passes and the tires are nice and sticky it's a bit harder.

All the tuning is done by Crispeed and I never question what he has done or ask for settings. I only request two step changes as needed. To do my burnouts I just run through the water and bounce the revs a couple of times and then let her have it:) I dont use the two step at all for the burnout because it seems to load the car up with fuel. Again I'm not a tuner, just a driver. As for the 1-2 shift. Yes it comes in a blink and feels like I dont even get the clutch out before going right back in. I actually need to get in there a little faster from watching my vids. But damn it comes fast:) And my two step is set at 7 or 7200 right now?? If there is sufficient water you dont need to rev it to 8k to get em going. This is where a pit crew comes in handy:)

damn some great tips!!! Thanks!

The most helpful information I have read regarding launching technique, thanks.

I will heed your advice and report back when I go to the track.

I have not yet launched the car, so I hope that practicing your technique will teach me good track habits.

No problem. Its definitely hard to break bad or old habits so its good your starting fresh. Keep us posted.

Great thread most-wanted... very good information.

Thanks. I hope this helps a few reach their goals.

Ok, I have a few more questions, I was talking to the person who will be tuning on my car and I had told him to read your thread and that I would like to set the rpms and 6400 and increase them as needed. He suggested that I may consider making more boost off of the two step. I have no experience with this so this is why I am asking you. Have you ever experimented with this?

I could give you a list of what parts are in my car to give you a general idea. I would rather pm them to you is this ok?

Most-Wanted, when you launched on the two step, did you have the throttle 100% to the floor?

I thought you have to in order to build boost? I've hit the 2 step but not holding the throttle to the floor and it just sat at 0. You have to load the engine by flooring it right?

Yup, load it and throttle to the floor...

Thank you for the recommendations on using our parts. I'm glad they have worked so well for so long for you. Next for you is an 8 second pass and I'm glad to be apart of that goal too.

There are many ways to reach a goal but I think what you have outlined is the most efficient way to get there and do it safely, also it lays a great base to continue on making more and more power.

Great post and advise.

Thanks David. Your parts have never let me down. I was just telling someone the other day that this is now my 4th evo and all have had BR parts. Never, not once, has one of your parts failed, not fit, or not perform. Always great results so its easy to recommend them. To me this is the fastest, most reliable way to get into the 11's and of course move on with easy additions to go even faster. I hope to take it to another level tomorrow night. Heat and humidity might be a factor, but we are going to try.

Good thread. Im ready to hit the track after your advice. Last year I was at 344 WHP on the dynojet with 319WTQ and ran a 12.5 at 112mph with a 1.783 60ft as my best. Now Im running meth with 30psi. 380WHP and 391WTQ. I was just hoping to break into the 11s with this but it sounds like I could be in the mid to low 11s. My 2step is set to 5800 though. I am also on the stock clutch. My 12.5 was with 30-35psi in the tires also. This time I will set them to 18 and see what happens.

Man that definitely sheds alot of light on what I can do to get some better times out of the car... Went to the track a few weeks ago and wasted 2 runs cause I had a glitch in the NLTS and it was messing me up big time... Hopefully I can do much better next time. Thanks for the lesson!

No problem. Keep us updated.

See what your thoughts are on this. Can't break into the 11's

Mods- Apexi air filter, buschur LICP, ETS UICP, Megan's O2 and DP, test pipe, B&B catback, ACT HD Street cluctch and streetlite flywheel, E85, 26psi Dynojet 395whp 382tq

Never played with tire pressure much just left them the same as DD pressure 35psi

2-step at 6k

R/T 0.145
60' 1.646
330 4.983
1/8 7.769
MPH 89.11
1000 10.108
1/4 12.076
MPH 115.36

Hopefully this file will attach. It's the log from my 12.07 run. My 1-2 shift was a lil slow but I think my others were pretty good. I had been trying out shifting early cause I had someone tell me I should try to shift at the peak of the HP wich was around 6200~6400 rpm

Back when I was shifting around 7k this was my best time but slower 60'

60' 1.742
330 5.108
1/8 7.882
mph 88.06
1000 10.242
1/4 12.203
mph 115.25

yeah i just went to the track for the first time tonight.

first pass at 30psi in the tires got me 1.6 60ft 115mph.

after that i lowered the psi to 20 then 18 and the 60ft went down and down. the fourth and final run ended up being 2.ish spinning a lot.

i pretty much trapped 115 mph every time but i was just stuck at 12.4 ET.

it was a little embarrassing.

i dont have my wheels here with me so i was running my volk GTU's 18x9 245/40 azenis.

2-step is at 6500

need help.

Yeah I'll definitley lower my air pressure next time out. From what I got out of Most-wanted's tips would be lower tire pressure, higher 2-step and shift at higher rpm.

I'm not sure if that would get me to mid 11's but hopefully high 11's. Maybe the rest is in the tune.

Shifts should be done according to your dyno sheet, but generally fall somewhere around 7200-7400. Tire pressure is a biggie. Your mod list is all over the place, but the numbers look good. Just not sure why the et is low. Just practice the shifts and do these few things and let us know how it turns out.

Most-Wanted,

Did you get a chance to look over my mod's list?

Seems like you did well at the track the other day, Congratz!!

Bert

Buy Zex part number 82021 and a Walbro pump. Spend 1.5 hours installing. Adjust non-nitrous fuel map to accomodate the pump to around 11.5:1 AFR. Install 67 nitrous jet and 23 fuel jet, spray away. 120+ traps all day long missing gears and pulling a boat, pump gas, stock car. Run the stock timing map.

$600 total.

Most wanted do you think I would be able to break into the 11s with my setup? Or is it wishfull thinking. I know it should hit a 12 flat but not sure about 11s

Thanks. And yes your mod list is nice. Actually very nice right down to the BBS wheels. A little mixed and matched, but the essentials are there and you have chosen the top 3:) As long as the power is made it should do it. Regardless of weight I would start of launching around 6400 and adjust from there since your friend is able to make changes for you...

It should. Are you on an 8 turbo?? Sorry if I missed that you stated somewhere what you had. Its hard to keep up with everyone's set ups... Clutch is not going to like you so be forewarned:) You also need to adjust your two step to the as mentioned 6400... Let us know...

Nice write up.

Thanks!

As far as the mods go. I usually don't post much just read a lot, I've done my research and these for the most part these are some of the best parts out there.

Yes, I too am a huge fan of buschur (this is reflected in my own car). They really do a lot of testing / weighing and write ups. Their cars really speak for themselves.

Once I make a few passes in the car I will be sure to report back my findings! {thumbup}

My friend, I will never forget !

Frankly, it was rather an amazing accomplishment and a real testament to the performance of Buschur Parts

When I custom ROAD tuned this car it was amung the very first IX Evos that I reflash tuned. This was well before the advent of ecu flash. At the time I was using a crude hex editor to adjust the maps and there was zero tech support beyond trial and error. There was no one to copy - nothing to review and no tech support of any kind. It was pure looking at patterns and finding maps by knowing what they look like.

I remember having to remove the ecu for each reflash and then replug it into the car and also having to use a matco scan tool as my data logger.

Before ecu flash and all the dozens of tuners specializing in this, I used to travel all over the USA street tuning Evos with the same methods with hundreds of cars tuned with the same crude and simplistic methods.

The tune up coinsisted of a Buschur Flash combined with road tuning for a simgle PUMP gas map that was then run on 100 octane race gas with the boost turned up a bit.

I agree that the whp was prob in the 370 - 380 range and again very good considering at the time it was the fastest and quickest stock turbo IX and also considering that the tuning was at its infancy.

The reality is that none of it would have been possible without your great driving.

I am however, very proud of the way my tuning held up at the track event that day and for many more miles of driving.

Yea its on the 8 stock turbo. I have an Exedy twin disk but Im just waiting till my stock one is done. It will most likly be this season. I will raise my 2 step higher. 6400 is up there. I will start at 6k and go from ther till I get to 6400.
Thanks for your help

Here's my dyno sheet. What would you suggest?

http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...9fa061dbb4.jpg

Shift at the mentioned 7200-7400. It will help keep you near your peak torque number. Makes shifts a bit easier and will help avoid lockout, etc.

someone pm'd me today on getting ready to go to the track and needed some help. I was cleaning out my inbox and got carried away and deleted it by accident. Please pm me again. Sorry...

I just want to say something that needs to be put out there. The only other person I have known to "care about the little people" that would be considered a big dog is Shep. I will go ahead and apologize if there are others out there that do the same but I have not yet experienced it enough to leave an impression on me like this.

What I'm trying to say is, it really means a lot when someone who is practically considered one of the big boys steps back and takes the time to help out the little guys. Ones who are still stock setup or just bolt ons. I want to thank you again for this thread and for helping us out!

Again I would like to apologize if there are other companies who do the same but I have not mentioned. My first experience with this was John Shepherd and now you. I don't doubt there are many other guys out there or big companies who treat their customers the same or try to reach out and help everyone but these are just the guys I have noticed.

Well, it wasn't long ago I was sitting where most are at looking for help to go faster. I was amazed at how many people wouldn't even give me the littlest of help. Even the simple stuff like not telling me what seat rail to use when they have the same exact seats. I had to do most of it on my own and I thought it didnt need to be that hard. Thats why I started this thread. To help people out and try to keep the cost down for them. In all honesty, I much rather go to the track and have 10 fast evo's there then just mine. It's good for the entire community. It's important to not lose sight of the fun factor as I almost did recently. That was another big reason for this thread. I'm glad you like the thread and hopefully it has helped you in one way or another. Thanks for taking the time to say thanks. I am always willing to try and help out.

I can't wait to get back to the track :) I need me a sub 11.50 :)

That's what I'm aiming for too. I think getting kicked off the track for not having a roll cage would be the greatest compliment I could ever receive lol.

I agree. It's not offten that you get this kind of hlep and feedback.

Thanks again Most-Wanted

I do appreciate the compliments. I my not have all the answers but I can normally find one pretty quick. If anyone ever has a question shoot me a pm. There is no reason to make mistakes when someone else has already made them...

Thanks for the help. Now to practice.

Most-Wanted -

Any tips for hitting the shifts nice and fast? An analysis I did in another thread showed that the 1-2 shift was worth at least 0.1 sec faster 1/4's for every 0.1 sec faster shift, 2-3 maybe 0.05 sec, and 3-4 nuttin', so it seems like a faster 1-2 is very important.

Thanks,
Tom

The 1-2 is extremely critical. In most scenarios it seems a quick shift around 7500 is best. Not too much for tips. Just having a good clutch that can handle a strong slip and keeping the rpms from falling off...

I think a good idea for any car/driver is to drive for trap the first couple times so you can see how much the car can trap, then you can access what your shift points should be per gear and see what kinds of et's you should be pulling with your setup.

I think 1/8th mile is very good practice and doesn't put the high load gears in use which is usually where the breaking up and det happens(nearing the end of the 1320ft)

Do you feel that the stock drive train can handle a good launch with drag radials? I know that wheel hop will cause the break but still. I am launching about 6200 and I find that I am spinning my tires. I am hoping that the DR might help me grip. I have a open front diff. as well. Is that a big hinderance? Thank you for your help.

the most important mod is the driver. and most of us would probly agree that you(most wanted) are a far better driver then the average driver. and have you ever driven a bone stock evo 8 or 9? (most wanted) id like to see your results! 1.9 to 2.0 60ft time....i think that can be done without launching lol

great great info, when you're talking about coming up to the line and pre-loading the drivetrain, do you use the e-brake to stop from creeping forward? I watched your newer vids and it doesn't seem like you use it at all.

I was at the track this past weekend and noticed my 60' ft times went down. With the stock wheels I was cutting 1.7 sixtys and with my new axis reverbs (18') I cant get better then a 1.85. Would the bigger wheel result in a slower sixty? Thanks

I tried to be just like Most-Wanted and failed.

I had the S-techs laying around so I got them on. Lowered the tires to 19spi. Got great 1.63 60' launches set at 6400rpm. Shifted at/around 7200-7300 each gear and still only netted a 12.1 @ 115mph

My shifts are .3 - .4 seconds and I'm being told that they are too slow. I lift each shift and had been pushing the clutch all the way in. Guess I could work on not using so much clutch.

Does anyone just keep the gas floored and just bang in the gears? Not talking about using no-lift-2shift ecu mod either. Just good ole gear slamming knuckle bruising shifts. I want to hit mid 11's but don't want to tear up the tranny to do it.

395whp/401tq

No I never use the E brake. I just load the car with clutch and hold it steady when I feel the car starting to move. I now have the Wilwood small brake kit and the e brake needs to be removed for them. I do need a staging brake now though.

Nice 60'. Just keep practicing the shifts. I always lift to shift but just barely release throttle pressure and just tap the clutch.

thank you thank you thank you for the info i had my two step at 5800 and never could get it to launch well. I will be using your formula from now on {thumbup}

Hey Most-Wanted, i wanted to get you opinion on somthing, instead of buying the buschur stage one since i pretty much have the same parts just by different manufactures

BR EVOLUTION AIR FILTER KIT = AEM Cold air intake
BR EVOLUTION 3" STAINLESS STEEL DOWNPIPE = 3" DC downpipe
3" HIGHFLOW CATALYTIC CONVERTER- I used test pipe = My DC downpipe has a cat delete
BR EVOLUTION 3" STAINLESS STEEL CATBACK W/ MAGNAFLOW MUFFLER = GReddy TI Catback exhaust.
BR MANUAL BOOST CONTROLLER = GReddy Profec B boost controller
BUSCHUR FLASH-I used Dynoflash = Tuned by Central Florida Turbo

i also was wondering if you where running a speed density setup, and is it expensive to hvae my car setup to run a speed density setup instead of the MAF?

i was wondering what you though it i just put the buschur stage 2 on my car if i could still break 11.90's

I'm sure they will work fine, but if you were starting from scratch I'd say stick with one manufacturer like Buschur. It makes it easier to progress without coming to a point where something dosnt match up like I/C piping, etc. I would get rid of the profec b though and go with the Buschur one or Hallman. I was on a stock ecu and stock maf. My set up was very basic but very potent. I have a almost new BR boost controller if you decide to buy one. Not too many people have much luck with the Profec from what I've seen...

Have you heard of any tuners setting up speed density for their customers as of yet?

I emailed Nick@Buschurs and he hasn't heard anything.

Just to clarify, because Buschur's website says on the stage 2 kit

"PLEASE NOTE: We do not recommend the mass air pipe unless you're running a speed density setup. If you are not running a speed density setup you may want to look at just the upper IC pipe and mini battery kit and stick with the air filter kit you recieved in stage 1. If you chose to use this be warned some stalling issues may occur."

You used all the parts in the kit + the Tial BoV and you did not run a speed density setup, you just ran the maf?

I have the Buschur MAF Pipe and am on stock ECU and MAF.

You just need a good tune to be able to run it.

Speed density allows for a little more power to be released and with a speed density setup you will be able to run a TiAL and eliminate the MAF.

My question is, what tuners are setting up speed density for their customers.

I used a forge RS bov and used the maf pipe kit. In all actuality, you can just run a drop in filter for the same or similar results, but I like the mini battery and shorter route intercooler pipe kit they offer. It looks so much better in the engine bay this way. I did run those numbers on a stock intercooler, but I was just giving a standard parts lists that most will end upwith anyways. I'll look for some pics.

I wish you could drive my car!

I'm certain it will go a hell of a lot quicker / faster with you behind the wheel {thumbup}

Nice write-up :beer:

Thankx for the post and info!!! My 2 step has always been set at 5900 and have only pulled ONE 1.69 60ft outta 50+ runs. Im goina get my tuner to change it to 6400 and see how it does. Times are in sig.

I have been running evos for quite some time now here in AZ at firebird raceway and speedworld. I totally agree with everything that most wanted has said as i have had very simular results with very little done to the evos that i have owned and driven for friends.

My best is 11.72 @ 114.8 in a 6 speed MR basically same mods with a 1.59 60' and serveral close to full weight evos, minus the spare tire, to 11.77 to 11.98 average around 115 to 117. These were 5 different evos 06 MR, 06 SE, 06 MR 5 speed, 05 Full Weight SSL, 04 GSR.

I think one factor that was left out that might account for a few tenths if any one is in the same boat as me tryin to get to 11.5, is elevation and heat. Our track here i believe is 2100 ft and the nights range from 110 to 85. The 11.72 in the 6 speed was in the winter when it was 85.

Awesome write up Most-Wanted. I hope it helps alot of Evo drivers, especially in AZ. We are kind of made fun of here cause the average evo at the track runs 13 to 14 sec.

Bump for answer