shifting question
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iTrader: (13)
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From: 909insoCaL n da 808state
what alarm do yoiu have...i have the viper 790xv...but if the ebrake was up and there was a sensor there or what ever it still doesnt know ir your in gear or not
when u do this from 3rd to 2nd is it suppose to give a screaming sound? i do it and the car works fine doesnt jerk nothing but it screams a little bit, what i did exactly was
clutch down in 3rd gear, shifted into 2nd with clutch still down, reved a tiny bit, released clutch ?? is that correct? sorry ive never driven a stick car before and i figured this would be the place to ask my questions. thank you
clutch down in 3rd gear, shifted into 2nd with clutch still down, reved a tiny bit, released clutch ?? is that correct? sorry ive never driven a stick car before and i figured this would be the place to ask my questions. thank you
If your new to manual cars, for the evo an easy way to know where you can downshift would be to find out where in your car you have to upshift. If you stoped and started accelerating in first gear, you shift at about 20mph, 2nd about 40, 3rd about 60-80mph, so if your downshifting from 4th, shift into 3rd at about 50-55mph, then to second at about 25-30, keep it about 15-20 mph below what the redline is in that gear. I wouldnt recommend you downshift into first until your going about 10mph or less.. its not really worth it unless your going to stop. Just find that spot that fits your car best.. If your downshifting try and keep the RPM's below 6K.... Just my 2 cents...
alright but when i downshifted from 3rd to 2nd i was only doing about 35-40 in 3rd and downshifted into 2nd... when i shifted into 2nd with clutch still down i reved it just a tad nothing major then released clutch and the car didnt jerk or anything but it just had a high pitch noise for a second or 2 then i braked a little and the noise was clear..
The noise that your hearing is your tranny. it makes noise dont worry about it. Just watch your RPM's when you downshift.. You dont want them to go over 6K... Just remember your speed/RPM when you downshifted, and next time you downshift rev it up to about that before you release the clutch.
alright one other question is... when i downshift from any gear, i rev then engage the gear im downshifting to and theres a whiny sound until i engage the clutch again... is that once again a normal sound or is that a problem?
one more time to make it a bit more clear
when i rev and then engage the gear.. theres a whinny kind of loud unfamiliar sound that stays until i engage the clutch again and the sound is gone... normal or something else?
one more time to make it a bit more clear
when i rev and then engage the gear.. theres a whinny kind of loud unfamiliar sound that stays until i engage the clutch again and the sound is gone... normal or something else?
the reason for matching revs during a downshift is to keep the drivetrain smooth in order to maintain traction...the idea is to match the rpms of the higher gear with the gear into which you are downshifting...also, one of the most important factors in driving fast is to maintain smoothness, as this maximises the use of momentum and traction, and when you are at the limit of traction, you need to avoid any sudden changes in torque at the wheels, either through the locking up of a wheel during a poorly executed downshift, or the loss of torque due to a missed gear (freewheeling)...it takes practice, but it is sooo sweet when you learn to do it correctly...
If you really must...bring the engine rpm close to the transmission front shaft speed when you have the shift lever in the neutral gate, then let the syncros do the final matching. If you do this well you do not need the clutch at all. I do it to ease the load on the weak Mitsu syncros. Practice on an old beater till you get the idea then learn the rpm to speed correlations for the gears you want to shift clutchless into and out of. It isn't a difficult skill to master. You can also "double clutch" (like truck drives uses to do) when driving by letting the clutch engage while the trans is in neutral, match the engine to trans speed for the next gear and then re-clutch into the new gear. Old three speed Fords or Chevy P/Us with crash first gears or most older British sports cars are good for practive. I learned on a Dodge Flat head six and and it came in handy when grabbing first on my Austin Healey 3000.
You need to rev the engine with the cltuch out so you can match the rpm to the speed of the cltuch so you don't burn your clutch. Have you ever driven stick?
anyhow, i only rev match at 2k's...i know.....bit slow....still learning tho
Skrib, you might not be reving high enough, and the screams could be your synchro trying to catch too quickly if you let off the clutch really fast. My car does it if I'm not careful. You want to make sure you are letting the clutch back out as close to the matched revs as possible. If you rev "slightly" and then the revs go down before you let the clutch out, it's like not rev matching at all. It's a tough skill and I'm still trying to get it right, try it slowly with your foot gently adjusting the gas to your desired revs to start, and then work up footwork speed.



