Clutch-kicking, also known as shockloading, is done by selecting a lower gear and releasing the clutch rapidly without revmatching. It will use engine braking and lock up the driving wheels. It's almost the equivalent of pulling the handbrake, almost because you will be under power and can control the car more precisely with the throttle, but it won't be as precise as using the handbrake.

For a rear-wheel-drive car, it will lock up the rear and slide it out. Then you can get on the power. For a front-wheel-drive car, it will exhibit severe understeer, and may possibly stall the motor.

For all-wheel-drive, it will buckle and most likely understeer.


The best way to induce oversteer in the Evo is by a combination of techniques:

* feint-motion - throw the steering wheel one turn to the outside gently, then immediately pitch the car into the turn and hit the steering lock. You'll have to turn in smoothly and progressively. Too much too fast and you'll exhibit understeer. This will make the car lean one way and load up the suspension, then toss it into the turn. Good way to toss around an unruly car.

* trail-braking - drag the brakes with reduced intensity after the braking zone. You'll have to modulate and progressively decrease pedal pressure so you don't eat up your traction budget.


Throttle oversteer is hard to do on the Evo. When power comes on it will understeer a little bit. You have to get it just right and keep the turbo spooling.

The only effective way to do it is by left-foot braking at turn-in. A quick jab on the brakes will help transfer the weight to the front and rotate the rear. Combined with the feint-motion, it will induce oversteer, especially on the RS with the front LSD.

Once you get off the brakes with the left foot, the power will kick in with the right foot planted on the throttle. This is the only way that I know to have a predictable power delivery. The turbo can be so temperamental that it will lag or spool too much and deliver the incorrect amount of power.

By riding the brakes with the left foot, I know more or less when the power kicks in: when I let off the brakes. It's better than riding the clutch because power will come sooner and more quickly.

Or you can turn on your A/C to ease the turbo's power delivery.

 

it's like double clutching without the gear change.

Sounds logical, but wouldn't it be easier just to double clutch on the corner before you brake hard? Or heel to toe?

 

clutch kick is for drifters.. and you need a RWD to do it effectively.... even then it puts a big strain on the drivetrain... keiichi tsuchia said clutch kick when done on snow or heavy rain will cause less strain but on dry roads its rough on the tranny

 

In most cases, yes. But if you're at a hairpin in 2nd gear, and your 1st gear is not synchronized, you can't shift into first (without risking damage to the gears), so you'd use this technique to get you moving instead.

 

Oh no, I screwed up I got the terminology mixed up.

After a little research, I know exactly what he means by clutch-kicking. It's accomplished as followed:

1. Approach the turn at speed.
2. Disengage the clutch.
3. Start turning in.
4. Rev the engine high.
5. Dump the clutch.

This will induce oversteer by upsetting traction at the rear. You correct the slide by steering corrections and throttle play.


This technique is primarily done by RWD cars. FWD cars will understeer heavily and experience massive wheel hops using this technique.

AWD cars will understeer or oversteer with this technique, depending upon the amount of throttle, weight distribution and steering angle, and will most likely cause some kind of damage to the drivetrain.

That's all it is. It's like dumping the clutch on a drag launch, except you do it while turning.

 

I still can't see how this is done.

You don't rev on 2nd gear then dump the clutch? wouldn't that just jerk you then bog your car?

or gas while clutch in then out? ... :I

 

Taht's dumping the clutch
Your force all the engies energy in to the drive train and then crack pow bang no more movement.

 

A few weeks ago I was at an autocross where the Toyo Drift team did an exhibition..

I was invited for a ride, and I figured, "sure why not" I had always thought that the reaosn drifters gave big HP was to be able to break the back tires loose, with the throttle, at will. (Otherwise, i would just take a VW Beetle, pup the rear tires to about 70psi, and go drifting)

I got inthe car, and as we started a long corner the driver was probably at 80% of speed, holding his foot to the floor then he litterally "kicked" the clutch. The car sounded like it exploded, huge bang, and of course the rear tires broke traction and he was then able to drive it with the throttle because of wheel spin.

It was violent, they replace clutches and such every event, and I didn't think it took a terrible amount of skill. (I was less impressed than I started the day, and I really was hoping to see that maybe drifting was more than it looked)

If you want your car to rotate, use the techniques mentioned in other posts... Unless you like buying and replacing transmissions/clutches/differentials/transfercases..... etc

Jon K
www.seat-time.com

 

Clutch kick on an AWD is such a bad idea. However, I'll keep the flame-spray to a minimum. I' m guessing you were probably trying to induce a drift when you did the clutch kick. Your wheels were probably turned in one direction or another. Yes, I'd say that was probably the front differential doing it's impression of a hand grenade. These cars are so easy to get sideways. Have you ever heard of a feint? It's so much easier (easier to induce, easier to control, and easier on the drivetrain).

 

clutch kick could help you do doughuts!

another use.

but it's used widely for honda's on roll races.

clutch kick could actually help on solo 2, where you want to have the tail spin around when understeering. Just don't do this on high RPM on evo, which is when it's usually used on fwd cars.

also, that thunk sound, that's just your clutch engaging and your transmission being shocked. it's not a welcome sound...

 

I had a GSX make that sound once while doing something "similar" to this. It was the center diff taking a dump.