Al,

I would like to upgrade the recent Buschurflash you did for me to a racegas flash, but I have a few questions.

What octane flashes are available and how much difference is between them as far as HP/Trq and timing?

What octane is required for the full race gas flash?

At what boost does the standard 91 and racegas flash start deviating from each other? In other words if I ran 11psi on 91 would it be safe on the racegas flash if I had to?

Also, my dyno chart really drops off at about 6500 rpm. I've noticed the stock cars do this as well, while some of the posted curves do not? What causes this?

Here is the dyno plot for reference
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/attach...achmentid=58738

Thanks for the great product!
Bill

 

Yes you can run on a race gas map on 91 oct but stay off boost.
As far as your plot is concerned different dyno and probably different flash. I think his new boost hold flash holds a lil longer. Octane is dependent on what you want probably. Al is versatile. Al is probably going to ban me for answering questions on this site.

 

Which stage Buschur Flash are you running ? (The boost you are running is falling off a bit up top - should be holding 19 psi) Let me know what the mods are

 

ha ha ha !

 

Just trying to help until you reply Al. Not bad for a rookie and Vishnu Fanboi.

 

Buschur stage 3 + fuel pump. I'm using a MBC, but it seems to fall off. I've ordered an HKS EVC. I've pressure tested everything, found that the 1G BOV was leaking as well.

 

I'm just laughing bro !

 

Where do you live ?

Something is very wrong with your set up its down at least 40 whp.

Try slightly crushing the mbc. I would be willing to bet you hav eother boost leaks. The Buschur MBC is a very god unit and usually holds much better boost. On a stage 3 a peak of 22 psi falling to 19.5 - 20 psi is ideal and will yeild a lot more power than 17 psi.

Also - check your cam timing.

The a/f is dead on the through the mail flash target so the tune is close.

 

I live in Northern Ca. (1hr north of SF). Dyno was before the BOV fixes. BOV was leaking pretty big. Cams were installed by SRM, so I think they got it right. I took the car out while on racegas with the wastegate disconnected. I would slowly bring it to 5000 and then floor it. The car would make a maximum of 19psi at redline. With the BOV fixed it will now make 22psi at redline. I crushed it and did the Dejon Tool modification as well. The MBC still tapers 3 psi though. I havn't dyno'd it since. As soon as the new EVC comes in I will dyno it again. I'm sure the numbers would be higher now. I think the tune is right on, but like I said, what would be gained going to a race gas flash?

PS - I pressurized everything from just before the filter to the throttle body using a leakdown gauge. Everything is pretty sould as this point.

 

hey bill, it's sean.
what is the Dejon Tool modification?
just curious.

 

Sean,

Here is what I did. If you want to do it I can help. It's not perfect, but with the fix it now hold pressure.

"From Dejon Tool
To seal we want no boost pressure under the BOV diaphragm until the TB closes - then we want full boost to open the valve. The solution is:
1-drill and tap a hole in the side of the BOV flange to intersect the small hole in the valve's flange bottom (which goes vertically to the underside of the diaphragm), insert a 1/8" hose fitting and seal the hole in the flange bottom with a 10-32nf set screw.
2- now we have to switch the pressure to this fitting between atmospheric pressure when manifold pressure = boost, and boost pressure when manifold pressure drops. We do this with a small 3-way - pilot pressure operated valve, using the manifold pressure to operate the pilot. (activate the valve) It requires 15psi to switch. So with pilot (manifold) pressure less than 15psi the valve sends boost pressure (from a tap in the intercooler piping) to the underside of the diaphragm to operate it normally, and at boost over 15psi the valve switches, venting the diaphragm's underside and sealing the BOV. "