Hey Al, I sent u a PM, but I have not heard from u and have seen u on. Not sure why u haven't got back to me.

You may or may not remember me, you flashed my ECU a couple weeks ago. I am Doug from Apache Junction, AZ.

Anyway, I just took my car to Dyno-Comp and had it run, and it only put down 200hp/220tq. Right before they ran my car, a bone stock EVO made 214hp/225tq.

Is something wrong with my car? I would've thought mods would add power, not take it away.

We compared our printouts and the curve on the boost is exactly the same, the HP and Torque curves are the same - mine just doesn't go up as much.

I don't know why in the hell my car has less power than a stock EVO. I'm pretty bummed to say the least.

Any idea what might be the problem?

Here are my dyno charts:





My mods are:
1G DSM BOV
JIC Exhaust
K&N Drop In

The car runs 91 octane.

Thanks,
Doug

 

Sorry it took me a day to get back to you - I was in a dyno day yesterday all day

I know that the Dyno Dynamics dyno reads low - - but this seems very low to me

With that said - my AZ tuning is super conseravtive - 91 octane and heat - I prefer to leave things super safe. That 91 octane is really weak fuel. When we do custom tuning we can turn up the wick a bit more with some comfort level but on the 91 octane our through the mail tunes are quite tame

I'd like some specifics on how they did the dyno - legnth of time between pulls and gear used etc

As for why the power is so low - some ideas

When you add a aftermarket exhuast without a boost controller - your boost actually lowers down slightly

In order to realize the full benefit of the aftermarket exhuast you need a boost controller to adjust the boost

ON 91 octane our reflash only adds 12 - 15 whp on a stock evo which can be accounted for due to car to car variance - maybe the other car was a bit stronger stock?

We would need to see your car with and without the flash to draw a meaningful inference

On a Dyno Jet awd dyno your car should make about 240 - 255 whp without a boost controller and 260 - 270 whp with the boost controller

As far as your sheet - the power band looks very smooth so the tune is working - I just think you need some more mods to pump up your power

I am not sure what the runs on that page are - what is the difference between runs 1 and 2,3 ??

Finally - remember we offer a full money back gurantee if you are not satisfied

 

Al, thanks for getting back to me.

Here's some info on the dyno:

The pulls were done consecutively, one right after the other. There was enough time between pulls to slow down and maybe count to 10 before they began the next pull.

For some reason the first pull (RED line) is really out of whack. The A/F starts up around 13, and the power is way low until about 4500rpm. The boost on that pull is also low, only peaking at about 18, and not until 4200rpm.

I believe they pulled in 3rd gear, but I cannot be certain. I know the gear ratios are a bit different. Would there be a huge difference in the dyno results between a 3rd and 4th gear pull?

***

I guess from what you are saying, my next step is to install the boost controller I have. I've just been too lazy I guess, or I didn't think I needed it.

I would really like to try a few other things first before returning my ECU to you.

Do you think I will benefit much from a SuperAFC if I keep the Dyno-Flash?

I had planned on getting some other mods in the near future, is there anything you can recommend to get my power up where I want it to be? I'd like to eventually be around 300whp.

Thanks,
Doug

 

One very important point is the collant temps in dyno testing evos

When you drive on the road there is plenty of air flow over the radiator

On the dyno the air flow is much lower and collant temps rise

The stock ecu has a protection feature which turns the tune super RICH when the collant temps rise - your a/f ratios look very very rich which will lower power

The proper procedure is to monitor collant temps and do the pulls at approx 173 degrees collant temp which is roughly equal to what you will find cruising dcown the highway in 5th gear at 55

Once you start a hard pull the collant temps rise up almost to 190 or more

At that point the car goes super rich to protect itself and you loose power

My recomendation to you is add a MBC and turn the boost up to 20 psi and send the ecu back to me for the tune for a MBC. There will be no charge for the upgrade.

Also - next time you dyno make sure they let the car cool off between runs and monitor the collant temps

TOO cold is also no good - we want mid 170's

Don;t worry about your power readings on the Dyno Dymanics - it reads low - as long as your car feels SMOOTH like it is on the dybno sheet and runs well I would not worry about it

If you want to know your real world actual power - go to a drag strip and let me know what your trap speed is

Call me anytime if you have any further questions

 

Doug, I spoke to our mutual friend and Al's statement sounds right, the ECU reads temperature from the intake and coolant temp (among 70 other sensors) and it will dump fuel. These ECUs learn very fast and map in 3 dimensions, unfortunately for longevity they adjust very conservatively and that's the reason for the solutions like Dynoflash. I would not add a S-AFC2 with the reflash. I installed one because I did not want to reflash and wanted to be able to go back to stock instantly by unplugging the wiring harness. I am running very conservative settings (no higher than -7%) in the heat. I think a MBC would help. It helped me, I do not run any higher than 19.5, but the boost comes up immediately and stays up there. MBCs in my opinion are simple and reliable.

Just my .02.

 

I just noticed in another thread that you highly recommend the Walbro 255 fuel pump when adding a boost controller (or any mods for that matter). I guess I should get one of those too.