The WGA solenoid is capped and rendered useless with a MBC install but needs to remain connected to the harness so the ECU won't miss it and through a fault.

Question, is there any way to set the WG parameters so the ECU won't miss the coil if disconnected from connector?

 

My JDM/UK ECUs don't mind if both of them are unplugged.

 

Both? My USDM 04 uses one solenoid in the OEM boost tapering/controlling system. Once unplugged I get a fault. I think the ECU sends a pulse out to the solenoid to test it when started. Funny thing is it specifically looks for that 33 OHM coil on the solenoid so you cant trick it with a resistor

 

yeah I did the 33ohm resistor thing and it gets HOT, you need to get one that has a heat sink if your going to do it, you might as well leave the stock solenoid connected even if your not using it.. GM solenoid is about 20-25ohms.. you need a 1k resistor in parallel for it to not complain and potentially burn out the driver due to flyback..

 

With the stock JDM or UK ECU (which run the same code) I can have them unplugged, or plug the AVC-R solenoid into either plug. None of these options trigger a fault.

The JDM/UK car uses twin solenoids. The second one isn't maxxed out as stock.

 

There are a few of us trying to figure out the OBD-II trigger values and the tables associated with them, or if there is a way to shunt the value so it never triggers a CEL for some..

 

A little off the wall here, but would a high current potentiometer fix that heat issue Malibu ?

 

The potentiometer would allow you to adjust the resistence to match the stock unit, but it'll likely get very hot too..

Its even worse with simulating a O2 sensor heater.. Put a resistor on there and you risk burning something or setting the car on fire..

If the solenoid works, and is still hooked up, I'd just cap it and leave it.. there's no reason why you couldn't use it for boost control in the future as more becomes known about the boost control system in the car.

 

Why would it get that hot?

I guess I dont see the point of pulling the stocker then.....

 

You have to simulate the load with the resistor, when you use a resistor to simulate the load, it generates heat since the power consumed has to go somewhere.. Thats why I suggest just leaving it there unless you have a specific need to remove it.

 

Reason I ask is I'm currently using the WGA sol for my failsafe W/M flow sensor output (the OEM is actually a good quality part). I put a spare EGR solenoid in it's place as the dummy. I guess I'll live with it - no biggy That would be nice - get rid of the ball and spring and have the ecu control boost