If you have a boost controller, you don't need to remove the restrictor pill, right?

 

Yep

 

Guys,

Let me get this Straight, I PREVIOULSY Removed my Air Box and CUT the Tee to Soleniod line and Installed a Tee to my Air Bleeder Valve that I now use to Control (Bleed-Off) my boost, and it works perfect to Increase my boost, It now will go as high as 22-24 Lbs (useing 100 Octane fuel of course) at 3300rpm EXCEPT that my ET remains at 13.09 @ 105(stock IX)for the simple reason that as the RPM's increase, my dam boost DECREASES all the way back to 16-17LBS at 5500-7000...so therefore for Drag Racing my Bleed Valve is USELESS!!!!

NOW though, if i REMOVE this Restrictor Pill at the solenoid youre saying my boost will NO LONGER DECREASE!!!!!!??????????????????

 

^^You can remove most of the taper by ecuflash.

 

Yes i KNOW that, but like a LOT of folkss I'd RATHER NOT spend $300 on a Flash right now...SO...

..Will REMOVING the pill help REMOVE the Taper or NOT!!

Seems kile it's IMPOSSIBLE to get a CLEAR ANSWER on this!!!

 

First of all, this is a very rude way to ask for information.. This CLEAR ANSWER you are asking for has been available in other threads if you used the search button.. But its unlikely anyone will tell you directly how this can be done after being rude and demanding.

However, The answer is not as clear as you seem to want.. YES you can remove taper WITHIN REASON, there is a mechanical limitation that also can cause the taper in boost. YES you CAN reduce the tapering by removing the restrictor and altering the boost tables. Unfortunately it takes time to adjust the tables because removing the restricter increases the spike you will get initially..

Just removing the restrictor will increase the spike slightly, and raise the boost levels slightly at higher RPM.. Along the lines of your bleeder valve..

That bleeder valve your describing sounds lot like the TurboXS bleeder for the UTEC.

 

Thanks Malibu, I APPOLOGIZE to EVERYONE for being rude..Yes, I've been into the Turbo Buicks for 20 years and EVERYONE just uses a SIMPLE BLEED VALVE, and I really just want to keep it SIMPLE...Now the Spike in Boost will only happen at ~3300
or so and THAT I can handle/modulate during normal driving...During a 1/4 mile pass though I'm Already way above that at 4800 right at launch, so I'll try it and see...


THANKS Malibu!!

 

OK, and the Verdic is:

It WORKS!! To a point though, if I have my Bleed Off opened ~3/8ths way (#7 on the pointer) It Spikes to 22 at Launch and winds up at 19PSI at 7000rpm shift points...I VERIFIED this by making 5 Passes with my Son in the back seat Religously watching the gauge during the passes...Now if I open it too much it spikes to ~24psi and TAPERS back to 17psi at the shifts, so it's NOT Linear....

Thanks for all there replies, i DO appreciate it

 

I honestly think you will have more consistant and better results by not bleeding the WGA air and by separating the solenoid from the system alltogether and installing a ball/spring device to control the WGA input.


just cap all the other connections, keep the wga solenoid electrically plugged in to complete the ecu circuit loop (or you get SES), and keep the hose from MBC to WGA short as possible (decrease spikes).

With a strong DV setup the MBC is still tough to beat, even with IX's and EcuFlash wizards trying to use an open/close solenoid to perform a task which requires a torque motor driven solenoid, close but no cake. My mbc keeps psi on manifold at 24, whether turbo is well loaded and capable of more or in conditions barely producing 24psi, if turbo can produce it, the mbc can maintain it, and no more as well.

Sorry, had to say this sometime and it happened to be now

 

The stock boost solenoid is garbage. Get an MBC.

 

can i ask?

what is the benefit of keep the original solenoid, INSTEAD OF CHANGING TO A MBC??

VIVA MEXICO!!!!!!!!!

 

MBC's cannot compensate for weather changes.. Cold days can result in larger boost spikes than hot days..

the stock solenoid and settings aren't "Great" for this sort of thing either, but it is still better IMHO than an MBC

The best solution is to use an aftermarket perrin solenoid with an EBC setup, or with the stock ECU's boost control maps.

 

Can you actually calibrate a perrin solenoid with the stock ecu boost maps?

 

subscribed

 

Thanks, Jack. I'll speak to Jestr about setting up the ECU that way then