Base Map???
Base Map???
So I am in the midst of putting my car back to stock (mods that were on were turbo back, intake, boost controller (21psi) and a flash by turbo trix. I bought the car with this setup.
I took out the boost controller and intake and the car is only running on 12psi (wastegate i presume) I am wondering if it's cause the ecu is not running a base map. The lines are brand new from an evo ix (traded with a kid who bought by controller).
My question is do you think it's the base map that that would solve this problem? If so does anyone have one for a 2003?
Thanks for the help.
-Ray
I took out the boost controller and intake and the car is only running on 12psi (wastegate i presume) I am wondering if it's cause the ecu is not running a base map. The lines are brand new from an evo ix (traded with a kid who bought by controller).
My question is do you think it's the base map that that would solve this problem? If so does anyone have one for a 2003?
Thanks for the help.
-Ray
The lines are probably on backwards.. Not sure if the IX and VIII lines are interchangable, but I will presume it is..
a frequent error people make is where the restrictors end up. The primary restrictor should be in the line going to your boost source on the turbo outlet (the black pipe with the nipple on it) and the one without the restrictor goes to the wastegate actuator. Another thought is the supposed brand new IX lines is missing one or more of the restrictors.
Assuming the car had an MBC, its unlikely the boost maps were modified, but if they were, the proper lines would still result in about 16psi or so if the Solenoid was not functioning at all...
a frequent error people make is where the restrictors end up. The primary restrictor should be in the line going to your boost source on the turbo outlet (the black pipe with the nipple on it) and the one without the restrictor goes to the wastegate actuator. Another thought is the supposed brand new IX lines is missing one or more of the restrictors.
Assuming the car had an MBC, its unlikely the boost maps were modified, but if they were, the proper lines would still result in about 16psi or so if the Solenoid was not functioning at all...
I am 100% sure the lines are on correctly. I marked each end with tape as they came off of the ix. And the ix has no more than 1,000 miles so I am sure the lines are mint.
I am thinking it may be the stock actuator or boost controller if thats what you call it. (the piece under the intake)
I am thinking it may be the stock actuator or boost controller if thats what you call it. (the piece under the intake)
Well, you may have the lines on the stock solenoid reversed.. It does have to be hooked up to the solenoid, and the line from the solenoid has to be hooked up to the intake pipe (or at least vented and not capped) If its capped on one of the nipples then its as good as not functioning.
A true test is to take the long line off the solenoid itself, and just let it sit there, the car should spike to 23-25psi if the lines are on properly.. Obviously don't do a full run like that, just a quick test..
FWIW, and please don't take offense to this, but most of the time the lines are hooked up improperly in some way..
Short line with restrictor --> Boost source
Short line without restrictor --> Gold colored Actuator
Long line from nylon T --> Boost solenoid under airbox (Restrictor is on the end that goes to the solenoid)
Solenoid Vent line --> To black intake pipe nipple (or vented if you don't have a provision for it on your intake)
I don't recall which nipple is which on the stock solenoid, however it shouldn't matter as its normally closed when not energized hence it will get the lowest reading if the solenoid isn't working at all, the wiring is disconnected, or the line is capped..
FWIW, and please don't take offense to this, but most of the time the lines are hooked up improperly in some way..
Short line with restrictor --> Boost source
Short line without restrictor --> Gold colored Actuator
Long line from nylon T --> Boost solenoid under airbox (Restrictor is on the end that goes to the solenoid)
Solenoid Vent line --> To black intake pipe nipple (or vented if you don't have a provision for it on your intake)
I don't recall which nipple is which on the stock solenoid, however it shouldn't matter as its normally closed when not energized hence it will get the lowest reading if the solenoid isn't working at all, the wiring is disconnected, or the line is capped..
Last edited by MalibuJack; Dec 31, 2006 at 08:26 AM.
A true test is to take the long line off the solenoid itself, and just let it sit there, the car should spike to 23-25psi if the lines are on properly.. Obviously don't do a full run like that, just a quick test..
FWIW, and please don't take offense to this, but most of the time the lines are hooked up improperly in some way..
Short line with restrictor --> Boost source
Short line without restrictor --> Gold colored Actuator
Long line from nylon T --> Boost solenoid under airbox (Restrictor is on the end that goes to the solenoid)
Solenoid Vent line --> To black intake pipe nipple (or vented if you don't have a provision for it on your intake)
I don't recall which nipple is which on the stock solenoid, however it shouldn't matter as its normally closed when not energized hence it will get the lowest reading if the solenoid isn't working at all, the wiring is disconnected, or the line is capped..
FWIW, and please don't take offense to this, but most of the time the lines are hooked up improperly in some way..
Short line with restrictor --> Boost source
Short line without restrictor --> Gold colored Actuator
Long line from nylon T --> Boost solenoid under airbox (Restrictor is on the end that goes to the solenoid)
Solenoid Vent line --> To black intake pipe nipple (or vented if you don't have a provision for it on your intake)
I don't recall which nipple is which on the stock solenoid, however it shouldn't matter as its normally closed when not energized hence it will get the lowest reading if the solenoid isn't working at all, the wiring is disconnected, or the line is capped..
The long line is on the first nipple (one closest to the bumper/front) and it goes to the actuator and T'd off to the turbo.
The second nipple I have running into the stock intake air duct.
If I correctly understand what you are saying I should remove the line going to the turbo/actuator from the solenoid and give it a run. Will try that as well.
Thanks,
Ray
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At first I wanted to post it here to see if anyone knew where I could get a base map (stock map for a 2003) Then I realized there was more of an issue then just that. So if I have taken up to much thread space I do apologize.
As for why it's fixed....
The night before after putting the intake back to stock I went to do a WOT run to test the boost and instantly LICP blew off (stupid me didn't tighten it enough) So I unplugged the MAF and drove back to the shop left it for the next day.
Following day I re-tightened all of the clamps and reviewed the lines. I just made sure that I had them in the right spots (long hose on the first nipple of the solenoid to the actuator -- red tipped hoes -- then the other portion T'd off to the turbo. The smaller line was on the second nipple of the solenoid and it went to the intake box.
Took it out of the shop and did 2-3 WOT runs boost was stuck at 12psi DARN!. Next run I made it spiked to 25psi and I said ****. After that it stayed at the normal boost levels 18-19psi.
So I guess there was no real method to my madness or why it worked. Just double check your work and triple check to make 100% sure you have everything right.
Thanks again for all the help.
-Ray
As for why it's fixed....
The night before after putting the intake back to stock I went to do a WOT run to test the boost and instantly LICP blew off (stupid me didn't tighten it enough) So I unplugged the MAF and drove back to the shop left it for the next day.
Following day I re-tightened all of the clamps and reviewed the lines. I just made sure that I had them in the right spots (long hose on the first nipple of the solenoid to the actuator -- red tipped hoes -- then the other portion T'd off to the turbo. The smaller line was on the second nipple of the solenoid and it went to the intake box.
Took it out of the shop and did 2-3 WOT runs boost was stuck at 12psi DARN!. Next run I made it spiked to 25psi and I said ****. After that it stayed at the normal boost levels 18-19psi.
So I guess there was no real method to my madness or why it worked. Just double check your work and triple check to make 100% sure you have everything right.
Thanks again for all the help.
-Ray




