What is the best temp to get youre car tunned in Cold or HOt ?? and please support youre theories with fact if you can, its ok if you want to just guess NOT!!

also how does one know what a reliable tune is, what AFR ratios to look for ??

 

anyone

 

The best temperature to get your car tuned is 98.6* because if your tuner is sick with a fever, than your tuning results may suffer.

TTP takes Flintstones vitamins daily.

 

LOL

Flinstones!

Sean

 

My suit is black not

 

Both!

a tune that was made in cold weather will allow for more timing/boost/leaner AFR before running into knock typically, so when you get to hot weather it might start knocking. My best advice is to get it tuned and occasionally check the logs to make sure everything is okay and adjust if necessary.

I like the AFR's in the mid/low 11's on pump gas, there's no right answer, some people prefer high 11's or low 12's and less timing/boost.

 

Don't call me a tuner but...

the stock ecu has got to be as good as an aftermarket emc. even the weeniest emc has weather related offsets.

iow the stock ecu should be able to compensate for weather extremes, either up or down.

 

There are temp and barometric temp compensation tables in the stock ECU. However, there are in *C and a normal car will ever only hit 3 of the cells if weather is super drastic. I assume the cells interpolate, but I haven't tried it myself. I planned to give the temp compensation tables a whirl when the temps around here drop.

 

I feel more confident in a summer tune because it's going to be more conservative and if you can make good power on a 100* day with 85% humidity then it will be rocking when it cools off. Make sure and keep an eye on boost because if you set 23 psi at 90* it's probably going to be overboosting when it cools off. I log my car anytime there is a temp change just to see how it's behaving. The tune I have on it right now is super resliliant and seems to not mind the occaisional 24psi spike and also doesnt mind WOT when the air temp in the logs is 120*. At the same time a run in the evening will produce 330/314 and my car's only mods are a TBE and a drop in.

A reliable tune will not have substantial knock in 3 consecutive 3rd gear runs without a cooldown period. By substantial knock I mean knock counts above 3. Also the car should be able to run gears 1-5 or 6 WOT without substantial knock.

 

Which is why I still contend that the tables for Air Temp compensation are either mislabeled as C or the numbers on the left are wrong. As I posted on aktivematrix when I meddled with the 82 "C" cell some months ago it did nothing until we got 82F+ the other day and the car went ridiculously rich (with no fuel changes).

Someone else should meddle with this and verify my result. I need to continue to mess with that table since if its done right it should run pretty much the same in all weather I would imagine.

 

If you support theories with fact, are they really theories then?

Confusious say:

If EVO tune whilst Flinstones vitamins, GNC vitamin tune crap.

Damit, I am fu(kked.

 

There are a few values there that wouldn't be needed if the scale was really in ºC. I expect the temp compensation should have a scale between 120ºF and -10ºF, so -25ºC to 50ºC is what I would expect to see. I done have ECUFlash in front of me currently, but what is the ºC scale in that table? I assume it shares the same scale as other temperature based items.

 

 

Its -32C to 80C. Definitely the top value is probably not necessary in most applications (nor the bottom one) and knowing mitsubishi . Some of the other temp values seem to be labeled wrong as well (minimum temp for full boost control is set to 85C for example).

 

i had to adjust the temp correction because I live in a very humid climate, missouri.