These Open-Loop values correct for fuel efficiency?
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These Open-Loop values correct for fuel efficiency?
I am basing these setting upon what JohnBradley had reccomended in another post...Are these the correct values for Open Loop Load #2 and the High Octane Fuel Map?
The cells that I'm particularly concerned about in the high octane fuel map are the ones in the white area,
1. Should there be a better transition from load point 30 to 40?? Is it ok to go from 14.7 to 15.5 so suddenly?
2. Since I have a 5-speed would it be ok to take the reccomended settings to 4k RPM from load points 40-80??
[img=http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/6236/highoctanefuelmapopenloez9.th.jpg]
Are the values ok for Open Loop Load #2 as well? I made no changes other then from 2k to 4k.

This was really exciting information for me seeing as how i'd get around 210-220 per tank with mostly highway driving seeing very little boost. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
BTW, when I say 210-220, that's usually before the light comes on, or when the light comes on for the very first time, sometimes not at all.
BTW, thanks for the posting these settings JohnBradley!!!
The cells that I'm particularly concerned about in the high octane fuel map are the ones in the white area,
1. Should there be a better transition from load point 30 to 40?? Is it ok to go from 14.7 to 15.5 so suddenly?
2. Since I have a 5-speed would it be ok to take the reccomended settings to 4k RPM from load points 40-80??
[img=http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/6236/highoctanefuelmapopenloez9.th.jpg]
Are the values ok for Open Loop Load #2 as well? I made no changes other then from 2k to 4k.

This was really exciting information for me seeing as how i'd get around 210-220 per tank with mostly highway driving seeing very little boost. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
BTW, when I say 210-220, that's usually before the light comes on, or when the light comes on for the very first time, sometimes not at all.
BTW, thanks for the posting these settings JohnBradley!!!
Last edited by Inprogress; Oct 26, 2007 at 10:57 AM.
fun stuff isn't it, I haven't been able to try this mod yet but-
210 mpg indicates something is WRONG. Unless you have very oversized tires with little air pressure. Drive over 90 miles an hour all the time.
I'd suggest you either contact the tuner or another, or post some logs and see what people have to say.
210 mpg indicates something is WRONG. Unless you have very oversized tires with little air pressure. Drive over 90 miles an hour all the time.
I'd suggest you either contact the tuner or another, or post some logs and see what people have to say.
lol, I've never been able to get past 270 miles on a tank.
If you're just going for fuel economy (which is odd considering your choice of vehicle) lean out on the fuel map and pull a degree of timing or so around peak torque (150ish load, 3500-4500ish RPM) Run @ 12:1 and remove whatever timing necessary to keep away knock. Of course you can't do any of this w/o a logger and a WB.
edit: btw your filename has "jestr" in it... might rethink posting those pix.
If you're just going for fuel economy (which is odd considering your choice of vehicle) lean out on the fuel map and pull a degree of timing or so around peak torque (150ish load, 3500-4500ish RPM) Run @ 12:1 and remove whatever timing necessary to keep away knock. Of course you can't do any of this w/o a logger and a WB.
edit: btw your filename has "jestr" in it... might rethink posting those pix.
Last edited by honki24; Oct 26, 2007 at 09:20 AM.
Can you report if this works or not? Compare a log from before looking at a specific RPM,load,throttle position and check your injector pulse width.
Then after you make these changes check again at the same RPM,load,throttle and see if pulse width is smaller.
I tried this just with AFR at idling and it made my pulse width go higher actually, so I never continued with this forced open-loop.
And Honki, you won't save much gas if you just try to economize peak torque I think. Most people spend the majority of time cruising while driving so you'll save the most gas if you economize your cruising. Acceleration only accounts for a small percentage of total driving time (unless you're on the circuit).
Then after you make these changes check again at the same RPM,load,throttle and see if pulse width is smaller.
I tried this just with AFR at idling and it made my pulse width go higher actually, so I never continued with this forced open-loop.
And Honki, you won't save much gas if you just try to economize peak torque I think. Most people spend the majority of time cruising while driving so you'll save the most gas if you economize your cruising. Acceleration only accounts for a small percentage of total driving time (unless you're on the circuit).
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lol, I've never been able to get past 270 miles on a tank.
If you're just going for fuel economy (which is odd considering your choice of vehicle) lean out on the fuel map and pull a degree of timing or so around peak torque (150ish load, 3500-4500ish RPM) Run @ 12:1 and remove whatever timing necessary to keep away knock. Of course you can't do any of this w/o a logger and a WB.
edit: btw your filename has "jestr" in it... might rethink posting those pix.
If you're just going for fuel economy (which is odd considering your choice of vehicle) lean out on the fuel map and pull a degree of timing or so around peak torque (150ish load, 3500-4500ish RPM) Run @ 12:1 and remove whatever timing necessary to keep away knock. Of course you can't do any of this w/o a logger and a WB.
edit: btw your filename has "jestr" in it... might rethink posting those pix.
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fun stuff isn't it, I haven't been able to try this mod yet but-
210 mpg indicates something is WRONG. Unless you have very oversized tires with little air pressure. Drive over 90 miles an hour all the time.
I'd suggest you either contact the tuner or another, or post some logs and see what people have to say.
210 mpg indicates something is WRONG. Unless you have very oversized tires with little air pressure. Drive over 90 miles an hour all the time.
I'd suggest you either contact the tuner or another, or post some logs and see what people have to say.
I have 245/40/18's on it right now, what tire pressure do you suggest?
Can you report if this works or not? Compare a log from before looking at a specific RPM,load,throttle position and check your injector pulse width.
Then after you make these changes check again at the same RPM,load,throttle and see if pulse width is smaller.
I tried this just with AFR at idling and it made my pulse width go higher actually, so I never continued with this forced open-loop.
And Honki, you won't save much gas if you just try to economize peak torque I think. Most people spend the majority of time cruising while driving so you'll save the most gas if you economize your cruising. Acceleration only accounts for a small percentage of total driving time (unless you're on the circuit).
Then after you make these changes check again at the same RPM,load,throttle and see if pulse width is smaller.
I tried this just with AFR at idling and it made my pulse width go higher actually, so I never continued with this forced open-loop.
And Honki, you won't save much gas if you just try to economize peak torque I think. Most people spend the majority of time cruising while driving so you'll save the most gas if you economize your cruising. Acceleration only accounts for a small percentage of total driving time (unless you're on the circuit).
Inprogress yes you can also adjust the values at 4K. Right now since I am lazy and dont use my car for long trips very often I have done the same thing (no 6th gear currently) since I cruise at 3800rpm or so. I still manage to get 23.5mpg at that rpm and 60ish mph.
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I don't need to worry about a smooth transition or anything? it goes from 14.7 suddenly to 15.5 you know?
Also, is the Open Loop Load setting look ok?
THANKS a bunch JohnBradley!!!!
It looked like it ramped up slowly enough to me in the one snapshot you posted. You might experience some issues if so just drop those 15.4's 15.1 or something. To be 100% honest it all depends on the rest of your mods and what your WB tells you is happening. I only posted the one map as a guideline of sorts.
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It looked like it ramped up slowly enough to me in the one snapshot you posted. You might experience some issues if so just drop those 15.4's 15.1 or something. To be 100% honest it all depends on the rest of your mods and what your WB tells you is happening. I only posted the one map as a guideline of sorts.
As for the Open Loop Load table, that checks out ok?
A wideband and logging load is essential to this.
You have to know what load columns you are in at various MPH and gear loads while cruising on the hwy.
example:
I had set certain load columns to be 15.5 in my fuel map. This came out to be 15.1-15.2 on my wideband while cruising at 65-70mph in 6th gear on the hwy. All was good in the world.
That night in less traffic I was cruising at 80mph in 6th gear at about 3400-3500 rpm. My wideband showed 14.2, obviously this will make fuel mileage even worse then if I hadn't changed the open-loop tables. I was in a different load column then, the way I have my fuel maps rescaled the AFR in that column and RPM was about 14.7. So I had to lean out that area as well.
Wideband and logging load is essential.
You have to know what load columns you are in at various MPH and gear loads while cruising on the hwy.
example:
I had set certain load columns to be 15.5 in my fuel map. This came out to be 15.1-15.2 on my wideband while cruising at 65-70mph in 6th gear on the hwy. All was good in the world.
That night in less traffic I was cruising at 80mph in 6th gear at about 3400-3500 rpm. My wideband showed 14.2, obviously this will make fuel mileage even worse then if I hadn't changed the open-loop tables. I was in a different load column then, the way I have my fuel maps rescaled the AFR in that column and RPM was about 14.7. So I had to lean out that area as well.
Wideband and logging load is essential.
Thread Starter
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From: Houston, TX
A wideband and logging load is essential to this.
You have to know what load columns you are in at various MPH and gear loads while cruising on the hwy.
example:
I had set certain load columns to be 15.5 in my fuel map. This came out to be 15.1-15.2 on my wideband while cruising at 65-70mph in 6th gear on the hwy. All was good in the world.
That night in less traffic I was cruising at 80mph in 6th gear at about 3400-3500 rpm. My wideband showed 14.2, obviously this will make fuel mileage even worse then if I hadn't changed the open-loop tables. I was in a different load column then, the way I have my fuel maps rescaled the AFR in that column and RPM was about 14.7. So I had to lean out that area as well.
Wideband and logging load is essential.
You have to know what load columns you are in at various MPH and gear loads while cruising on the hwy.
example:
I had set certain load columns to be 15.5 in my fuel map. This came out to be 15.1-15.2 on my wideband while cruising at 65-70mph in 6th gear on the hwy. All was good in the world.
That night in less traffic I was cruising at 80mph in 6th gear at about 3400-3500 rpm. My wideband showed 14.2, obviously this will make fuel mileage even worse then if I hadn't changed the open-loop tables. I was in a different load column then, the way I have my fuel maps rescaled the AFR in that column and RPM was about 14.7. So I had to lean out that area as well.
Wideband and logging load is essential.
Also, you mentioned you had to change your open loop tables, which exact tables did you have to alter if you dont mind my asking?
Could you report back on the injector pulse width thing if you ever get a chance?
I have ECU+ and it supports front o2 sensor simulation using a wideband and you can set the AFR target for closed-loop, like raising the normal 14.7 to 15.2 or so. Just explaining why I haven't tried this forced open-loop method.







