How much boost on pump gas do you run?
Most of us do, and for good reason. The spikes make a bit more on the dyno plots, causing a torque jump. It shoul dbe counted because if you didn't have that small spike, then your overall peak numbers would go down. Also, it's counted because it's numbers you can feel driving out on the street.
Everyone always says its a balance of boost, timing and AFR. But if more boost means more torque, shouldnt we be cranking up the boost and pulling out timing?
^ You will make more power with more air - 27psi is a pretty good number, than you would at 23psi. Timing should be 2nd in the equation. IMHO.
Problem is not everyone has the ability to run this much boost. You either need good fuel with high knock resistance, or a very good cooling solution in order to keep combustion chamber as cool as possible - choice of cams, turbo, intercooler matter.
Problem is not everyone has the ability to run this much boost. You either need good fuel with high knock resistance, or a very good cooling solution in order to keep combustion chamber as cool as possible - choice of cams, turbo, intercooler matter.
Last edited by mplspilot; Jan 9, 2008 at 03:08 PM.
im running 22 pounds of boost DD never any problem with knock or anything pulls hard and feels great on 91 oct this friday i dont know what it will be cause i getting cams installed so keep you updated
I agree with Scott wholeheartedly. There is a ton to say about initial air temp, underhood temps, gas quality, car model (IX's can handle more than VIII's), whether you run meth or not(I am not currently), overall state of the car, and the synergy of the mods you have. The people that pick mods higgledy piggledy are the ones that always seem to have the cars that are down on power when they shouldnt be. I am still running 2-3* of advance at peak torque/max boost and holding relatively good timing numbers to redline.
To answer your question Chuck, its always give and take. Is the 2psi worth the 2* of timing I lose? Based purely on the resultant lbs/min ( or load if you wanted to base it solely off of that) the answer is yes. As long as the car isnt knocking (and this will drop load like a son of a gun) run as much as both as you can for peak power. For reliability however you woluld want to run more timing and less boost but follow the same formula. I have a pretty dedicated budget that I used just for my car so I dont really care. Someone elses car however I would never tune like mine for street duty on "just" pump nor would I recommend it to anyone if they werent willing to face the fact that one error can cost 1000's.
JB
To answer your question Chuck, its always give and take. Is the 2psi worth the 2* of timing I lose? Based purely on the resultant lbs/min ( or load if you wanted to base it solely off of that) the answer is yes. As long as the car isnt knocking (and this will drop load like a son of a gun) run as much as both as you can for peak power. For reliability however you woluld want to run more timing and less boost but follow the same formula. I have a pretty dedicated budget that I used just for my car so I dont really care. Someone elses car however I would never tune like mine for street duty on "just" pump nor would I recommend it to anyone if they werent willing to face the fact that one error can cost 1000's.
JB
I agree with Scott wholeheartedly. There is a ton to say about initial air temp, underhood temps, gas quality, car model (IX's can handle more than VIII's), whether you run meth or not(I am not currently), overall state of the car, and the synergy of the mods you have. The people that pick mods higgledy piggledy are the ones that always seem to have the cars that are down on power when they shouldnt be. I am still running 2-3* of advance at peak torque/max boost and holding relatively good timing numbers to redline.
To answer your question Chuck, its always give and take. Is the 2psi worth the 2* of timing I lose? Based purely on the resultant lbs/min ( or load if you wanted to base it solely off of that) the answer is yes. As long as the car isnt knocking (and this will drop load like a son of a gun) run as much as both as you can for peak power. For reliability however you woluld want to run more timing and less boost but follow the same formula. I have a pretty dedicated budget that I used just for my car so I dont really care. Someone elses car however I would never tune like mine for street duty on "just" pump nor would I recommend it to anyone if they werent willing to face the fact that one error can cost 1000's.
JB
To answer your question Chuck, its always give and take. Is the 2psi worth the 2* of timing I lose? Based purely on the resultant lbs/min ( or load if you wanted to base it solely off of that) the answer is yes. As long as the car isnt knocking (and this will drop load like a son of a gun) run as much as both as you can for peak power. For reliability however you woluld want to run more timing and less boost but follow the same formula. I have a pretty dedicated budget that I used just for my car so I dont really care. Someone elses car however I would never tune like mine for street duty on "just" pump nor would I recommend it to anyone if they werent willing to face the fact that one error can cost 1000's.
JB
I currently run ~24.5 psi on my IX. I'm using the stock solenoid and I've got taper built in over the entire rev band. I hit a little over 26 psi at peak torque and taper to around 23 psi at 6000 RPM or so. At that point the turbo begins to run out of breath and it tapers fairly quickly down to 19.5 psi or so at ~7500 RPM.
Stock 10.5 turbo, modified Megan mani (coated), Megan O2 (coated), 3.5" bar/plate IC, stock piping.
EDIT :: lol. I just noticed I posted almost this exact thing in post #2 of this thread ... sorry. I have re-tuned since then though and run a little more boost down low.
Stock 10.5 turbo, modified Megan mani (coated), Megan O2 (coated), 3.5" bar/plate IC, stock piping.
EDIT :: lol. I just noticed I posted almost this exact thing in post #2 of this thread ... sorry. I have re-tuned since then though and run a little more boost down low.
Last edited by TouringBubble; Jan 10, 2008 at 08:33 AM.
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I agree with Scott wholeheartedly. There is a ton to say about initial air temp, underhood temps, gas quality, car model (IX's can handle more than VIII's), whether you run meth or not(I am not currently), overall state of the car, and the synergy of the mods you have. The people that pick mods higgledy piggledy are the ones that always seem to have the cars that are down on power when they shouldnt be. I am still running 2-3* of advance at peak torque/max boost and holding relatively good timing numbers to redline.
I agree also.
I have not seen anyone in the evo community do this, probably becuase they already have the stock hood vent, but I got the idea of lifting the back of my hood from some drifterX dude at a local car show, and applied it to my 95 Talon Tsi Awd. I made 1, 1.25, and 1.5 inch spacers for the rear of my hood (spacers installed where hood bolts to the hinge arms) and measured underhood temperatures. Awesome results, a drop of 30-40ºF in the engine bay depending on which spacer was installed. This also resulted in decently cooler IATs from what I saw, granted I have a huge intercooler! Good luck everyone!