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Old Nov 19, 2007 | 09:49 PM
  #16  
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I really appreciate the help from everyone!! I'm going to make some full datalogs once i calibrate my wideband and post up those logs...I'm sure my tune isn't done yet with my tuner, ttp, who has been awesome and very helpful throughout this whole process...
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Old Nov 19, 2007 | 11:35 PM
  #17  
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Yeah accurate wideband AFRs would help. Cause I was looking at the knock and the load and I was like hmmm .
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Old Nov 20, 2007 | 09:12 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by ChuckP
I would never make all 3 hi-octane ignition maps the same. only modify map 2. From what ive gathered map 1 is for cold starts and map 3 is when in limp mode. Don't be dumb and destroy an engine on a cold morning.
Chuck while this is certainly true, sometimes it seems to be necessary. I waffle on that particular debate as to whether or not its needed. When I start seeing timing numbers that dont correalate to anything on map#2 that usually when I change them. There was some question as to whether or not the ECU interpolates between the maps based on MIVEC as well. I havent seen evidence of this and kind of put it in the same category as it depends on where you have the ACD switch.

Inprogress-

One thing I forgot to add is that cars knock. They will knock on a stock map and they will knock on a tuned map. As long as it doesnt knock all the time and it feels good to you then its not always necessary to do anything about it. I am not talking about riding the knock control like some tuners in the past, but as long as the bulk of your knock is 1-3 counts and scattered at different rpm and load points I wouldnt worry. Pumpgas is really hard to make 100% knockfree 100% all the time.

Last edited by JohnBradley; Nov 20, 2007 at 09:14 AM.
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Old Nov 20, 2007 | 10:23 AM
  #19  
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The fact that the AFR was tuned spot on and now are reading a full point richer is the only thing that matters. Reviewing a log of a tune with a wideband input that could be 10.5afr, 11.5afr, or 12.5AFR and not knowing the truth supercedes anything that can be discussed that would help the situation.

#1 Calibrate the wideband if so required.
#2 if innaccurate, replace sensor.
#3 if still inaccurate, replace wideband with another brand.
#4 Submit accurate WBO2 readings to your tuner so that accurate data is being worked with.
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Old Nov 20, 2007 | 10:30 AM
  #20  
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Thanks JB!

TTp,

I'll be recalibrating it asap, if it doesn't work then I'll go from there...
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 05:04 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by JohnBradley
Inprogress-

One thing I forgot to add is that cars knock. They will knock on a stock map and they will knock on a tuned map. As long as it doesnt knock all the time and it feels good to you then its not always necessary to do anything about it. I am not talking about riding the knock control like some tuners in the past, but as long as the bulk of your knock is 1-3 counts and scattered at different rpm and load points I wouldnt worry. Pumpgas is really hard to make 100% knockfree 100% all the time.
JohnBradley,

I just re-did a few logs a few minutes ago and was wondering, of 4 logs, the 1st, 3rd, and 4th showed relatively no knock (under 2 counts in some areas at most), but the 2nd one had knock up to around 7-8 counts, why would it do that?

Also,

Is there an amount of time I should wait between logs? I usually have no more then 15-20 seconds between each log
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 05:17 PM
  #22  
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I want to add that the wideband was terribly miscalibrated 0.8-1.3AFR points off reading richer.

It seems now the wideband input may finally be accurate hence the reason this thread and any advice is moot unless the wbo2 input is correct.
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 05:25 PM
  #23  
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I realize that, I am not asking about the wideband or the tune, I just wanted to know why knock varied in general, nothing else
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 05:51 PM
  #24  
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Nothing is constant. Especially intake temps on back to back pulls within 15 seconds of each other on an untuned vehicle.
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 06:23 PM
  #25  
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Should I not do the pulls that closely back to back?
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Inprogress
Should I not do the pulls that closely back to back?
How long do you wait to go WOT when you are driving your car hard?
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 08:43 PM
  #27  
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I understand that

Just wondering if there was a suggested time...Maybe I'll wait 2-3 minutes between pulls, what do you suggest?
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 08:47 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Inprogress
I understand that

Just wondering if there was a suggested time...Maybe I'll wait 2-3 minutes between pulls, what do you suggest?

Well, heat soak is a real thing. It depends on what kind of tune you want. One that makes all the avail power your evo can do but have some knock every once and awhile, or, sacrifice some power and have no knock at all, which is a very hard thing to do.

I would say that 6 counts of knock or under every once and awhile is not something to be super concerned about. 6 counts every other pull, is.
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 08:58 PM
  #29  
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fair enough...I know heat soak is a big possibility, especially since after the 1st run, the 2nd run never feels as strong...I'll wait at least 2 minutes before making another run and see how the knock is, like i said, the car only knocked in 1 of the 4 runs, otherwise the knock was under 1-2 counts and very rare...ttp is giving me a solid friggin tune...
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 09:49 PM
  #30  
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From: sc
Originally Posted by Inprogress
...I'll wait at least 2 minutes before making another run and see how the knock is,
More like 1-2 hours. Once everything else is cold but the coolant has been up to temp after 5 min warmup -
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