really hygh knock on really low load
my afr map is bone stock and the timing map is just one degre in some cels and in higher loads but ill post it,
i have a wideband but i cant log it and it seems wrigh if you se the forth gear log there is just one count and thats an average log at wot, once you start with boost the af ratio goes to 10:1 which is by now the richer reading i can get because of the display (configuration thing its going to 8:0 but i have to plug it to a laptop where i have the program) at idle it shows 14.7, 14.8, 14.9 more like the 14.7 but it is not really steady so the af ratio as i can se to it as i drive its ok always going rich accel
i have a wideband but i cant log it and it seems wrigh if you se the forth gear log there is just one count and thats an average log at wot, once you start with boost the af ratio goes to 10:1 which is by now the richer reading i can get because of the display (configuration thing its going to 8:0 but i have to plug it to a laptop where i have the program) at idle it shows 14.7, 14.8, 14.9 more like the 14.7 but it is not really steady so the af ratio as i can se to it as i drive its ok always going rich accel
If you want to see if this is phantom knock or real knock, run 100 octane gas and see if the knock goes away or stays. If it stays, then it is phantom knock. If it goes away, then it is real knock.
i spend the las tow days loging, and i have a theory, it only hapens when i am idle crusing for a few minutes and i hit the gas, if i am in a long uphil and leave things for a few seconds and i go into gas nothing hapens, also these is hapening in ambient temps of 15 c° or so, so what i am thinking is that the intercoler gets cold at idle crusing for some downhil time and if i hit gas the intake tha has no heat sheald gets engine temperature air goes thru the turbo not to much bosted (not so hot) and get cold by a cold intercoler and the first mas of air goes colder than the maf says and that causes the knock.
can these hapen because after a few seconds boosting i can idle for few seconds and repeate the experiment and knock is gone at the same spot same rpm etc..
but i still have to cure these any ideas
can these hapen because after a few seconds boosting i can idle for few seconds and repeate the experiment and knock is gone at the same spot same rpm etc..
but i still have to cure these any ideas
i spend the las tow days loging, and i have a theory, it only hapens when i am idle crusing for a few minutes and i hit the gas, if i am in a long uphil and leave things for a few seconds and i go into gas nothing hapens, also these is hapening in ambient temps of 15 c° or so, so what i am thinking is that the intercoler gets cold at idle crusing for some downhil time and if i hit gas the intake tha has no heat sheald gets engine temperature air goes thru the turbo not to much bosted (not so hot) and get cold by a cold intercoler and the first mas of air goes colder than the maf says and that causes the knock.
can these hapen because after a few seconds boosting i can idle for few seconds and repeate the experiment and knock is gone at the same spot same rpm etc..
but i still have to cure these any ideas
can these hapen because after a few seconds boosting i can idle for few seconds and repeate the experiment and knock is gone at the same spot same rpm etc..
but i still have to cure these any ideas
I've noticed on that on my 8 if I run cam timing -3/-3 or any combo with the intake cam retarded I get more low load knock (up to 11) in 1st and 2nd gears (usually after a stop in 2.5k-3.5krpm and 80-120 load). With the intake advanced +1i/-1e most low load knock disappears(not more than 5).
If knock is also happening at high load then do not drive car.
Check the timing, if thats good then open your oil filter, if thats negative send out an oil sample, do a compression test and inspect plugs. Get this out of the way to rule out and protect the most expensive.
Check the timing, if thats good then open your oil filter, if thats negative send out an oil sample, do a compression test and inspect plugs. Get this out of the way to rule out and protect the most expensive.
all of my wot logs are knock free or maybe one at the most tow counts, these is a only on specific after long idle cruise situation so i can go wot for long and drive the car hard and have no knock but if i idle cruise for a few miles i have to be carefull with the thotle for the first seconds its weard



i am on stock clutch