After resetting your ecu have you let it idle for at least 7 minutes (with AC OFF) - because what I see from the numbers you posted after logging is that your ECU doesnot try to adjust the idle.

To sort out idling with your setup (cams, piping, filter etc.) you have to adjust also the Basic Idle Set Screw. Go through following:
1. make all you idle tables back to stock - I do not know whether you have touched them or not - just leave the Idle Stepper Lookup table as you posted in your last post with the last column adjusted as you did.
2. drive the car to warm up the engine
3. when warmed up, switch off the AC and log the idle steps while idling and the RPM - note them - if you get like 20 but the RPM far below 850 or you get like 65 and RPM around 850 go to the following steps
4. open the hood and on the upper side of the throttle body there is a screw - open it by half-turn - the idle RPM should increase - try to get to 850 (you reported that you had like 560RPM when warmed up). After that turn off the engine.
5. Disconnect battery for couple of secs, connect back, start the engine and let it idle (AC OFF) for at least 7 minutes - you can log it - and as soon as the low fuel trim changes you are done - you should aim to get it into a stage where you will see cca 20 idle steps, 850 RPM (while AC OFF).
6. try to swith ON AC - to see if you idle steps go up (in order to maintain the necessary RPM)

This worked on two Evo VIII and two EVO IX who had some idling issues due to BOV or filter changing or after cleaning the throttle body.

Regaring the tables themself - I do not completelly understand how they interact between each other - but those tabales called "Desired ISCV...." are used as reference - the ECU adjusts the idle based on some logic - but if it stays out of these numbers for certain period - you will get your check engine light - with trouble code - Idle Control Malfunction.

 

With all the idle tables set to stock I have no issues with idle whatsoever. I just have horrible throttle hang. When I adjust the idle stepper table to fix the throttle hang like everyone else on the idle stepper table thread, it won't idle until it's warm. As far as I know, they didn't have to adjust the biss screw. I don't think I need to if since it idle's perfectly on stock tables. I don't even really mind the throttle hang except I have a bad 4th gear synchro and I need the rpm to drop when I shift from 3rd to 4th to not grind. Unfortunately, at the moment I don't have the scrilla to get the tranny rebuilt and I can live with it by double clutching, but if the rpm doesn't drop in between shifts, I can't prevent it from grinding except for shifting from 3rd to 4th at like 2800 rpm or something ridiculous.

 

I think this proves that the axes aren't setup correctly or something else is going on. How many cells have you adjusted to fix the throttle hang? What happens in you just adjust the last cell and keep everything else stock?

 

On the temp axis - I think it is fine - however the load axis - I am not quite sure whether it is actually load.

Biggies - where is your idle stepper lookup table that you have been using - I would like to see your last column.

 

Yeah, I think the coolant temp axis is correct and verified from disassembly by a few people and I think load has been verified, too. But, what I am saying is maybe the data should be flipped, swapped, etc.

However, I just got done reading through the main idle stepper/throttle hang thread again and now I think this table may be correct how we have it setup, but there is an additional table(s) and code for the 05/06 Evos that maintain that ISC step setting for a period of time and/or based on the clutch switch position, after the throttle is released.

If you look at the 03 table the hang should even be more pronounced, yet this issue only seems to be for 05/06 Evos. While setting the stepper value lower might 'fix' this issue, I think it's more of a band-aid fix and since the temps only go up to 41C, then this band-aid fix may affect the warm-up idle as well, making the car come down to 'normal' idle RPM too quickly.

I think the real fix ultimately for this throttle hang issue is to find the extra table(s) that are controlling the ISC for the 05/06 Evos that is making the ISC steps stay higher for certain conditions or time. It has already been shown that the clutch switch is one input...I'm wondering if there is a timer table as well.

 

I have seen that one ekutek tuner actually changes the last column header from 41 to something like 48 or even more. So the values in the last column kick in at higher engine temps which might prevent having them too low too early.

 

This is the table that I have currently. It eliminated the throttle hang for the most part, but still has idle issues, but reduced significantly the time(temp) required until it will idle on it's own compared to the table peole were using in the other thread.

 

Have you ever tried just adusting a couple of cells in the last column, instead of the 15 or so that you have adjusted? For example, if you were just getting your throttle hang after coming off from higher load/boost, try just adjusting the bottom 1 or 2 cells and leave the rest alone. I'm wondering if the load scale may have different scaling than what we use and you may be affecting your idle cell when your coolant temp reaches between 34-41C, which is only 93-106F.

 

No I haven't, but I will.

 

l2r99gst, when you said this before, I thought I understood what you were doing, but I believe I was wrong. I understood that you weren't going in and manually changing the data, but just rearranging it. What I didn't understand, and correct me if I'm wrong, that you only changed the way it was displayed in ECUflash, but it doesn't actually change anything in the ECU if flashed that way. I guess the fact that the axes on the table weren't changing when the data shifted around mislead me. Unless I'm still mislead.

 

You understand now. My changes weren't chaning anything if flashed to the ECU. I was just rearranging how the table was presented to try to make better sense of it.

After thinking more, I think the table may be correct as is, but I think there is other code in the ECU that controls the ISC on some kind of timer and/or clutch switch that is keeping the ISC steps high on throttle lift.

Changing the table as mentioned in this thread and how you did it I think is just a band-aid fix and does help, but as you have experienced, if changing too many cells, it can affect the cold start idle as well, especially since the table only goes to 41C, and chaning the last column affects from 34-41C.

 

Thanks, I'm going to go try only adjusting the bottom few cells now.

 

I changed the last four cells. I lowered the top cell of the four to the mid eighties and interpolated to zero from there. So far it seems to work fine. I've noticed a tiny bit of hang so I'm going to try lowring a cell up or two. I'm on my phone so I can't post a pic. I will later.

 

what u can try doing is rescaling the axis, so that the last column is normal running temps and the previous column is "almost" normal running temps.

 

I think l2r99gst is probably correct regarding other code in the ECU and clutch related. I have posted in the past, that while the throttle is "hanging" after downshifting to anythign higher then 3500rpm, you can disengage the hang and induce engine braking by lightly pushing the clutch. I further discovered that there are two clutch switches underneath the pedal. 1 is the position switch. unplugging this did nothing for me except allow the car to start without pushing the clutch in. the second one is up higher. when you push the pedal a bit, a button is released rahter then pushed. It has been said in the past that this button has some effect on the injectors. I am not sure if that isi confirmed or not. I am not sure. I know very little about actually tuning a vehicle and all the tables. Back in one of the other threads people were trying to asses whether fuel was still being delivered under the hanging conditions. But I dont think anyone with a wideband ever posted results. I think we are on the right track with the tables you are all testing, but there may be something else triggering it as well, and I suspect it might have somethign to do with that clutch switch way up high on the pedal.