Im having idle issues I don't know if it's because of my cams, BOV (with stock ecu + maf) or injectors, or maybe I just suck at tuning. I'd say its prob a combination of 2, mostly the tuning end.

I have HKS 280 cams, Tial BOV, 880cc injectors. I have my idle set at 1400 to keep the car alive and my A/F is all over the place then drops way lean, 15.00-no even reading on the WB. I richened up the map but it doesn't seem to work.

Any ideas?

 

1.) Exhaust leaks.
2.) Boost leaks.
3.) Scale injectors for your injectors (log fuel trims and set within +/- 5%).
4.) Set IDLE NEUTRAL/DRIVE to 1000 (shouldn't need much more).
5.) Check AFRs at idle -should hover around 14.7 (if higher, repeat #1).

There is a starting point.

 

most likely combination of the 2. Adjust the latency per inj mfg testing and resize your inj scaling then tune with your fuel trims. Even with cams itll idle nice/acceptable at 1000 depending on cam profile. Go back to diverter valve ( does not vent to atmosphere) if your still running the stock ecu and are under closed loop at idle (defined under open loop and throttle, and thats just to get it to idle right let alone driveable) Ditch the BOV. The diverter is typically open at idle due to intake manifold vacuum, unless you have a really stiff spring, bypassing the MAF. If you are running the PTE 880's try ~1ms at 14volts as suggested here: http://www.precisionturbo.net/fuelsystems.php (mitsu style at the bottom)
youll need to fix the rest of the curve with your own testing though.
good luck! practice makes perfect!

 

Edit: damn demo mode, tomorrow is another day.