? Fuel Trims ?
? Fuel Trims ?
I have "stock" injectors, and had lowered my scaling down to 472, considering my trims were +6-7 / +7-9 @ 513.
So I decided to log my trims again 6 months later, and my trims were -6 and I dont have a log from when I cruised it, but if I remember correctly it was ~ -7.
None of the latencies were touched!
So last night I decided to increase my scaling up to 496 trying to get it as close to "0" as I can w/ out spending too much time on it. So this morning I set out for my cruise (10 mins.) but let my car idle for 10 mins. last night after the rom change, and 10 mins. this morning, went to the bank, and then did my cruise (10 min.) to work, and noticed my low was reading (on cruise) @ -.8, and mid was @ +2. Is the LOW supposed to be reading on cruise???
Then I did my idle after I got to work, and noticed that my LOW wasnt reading @ all, "0" and MID was @ +2. Is MID supposed to be reading @ idle???
Why hasnt my low registered? I know you need to let it idle for 20 mins. before you do anything, which I did 10 mins @ 2am, and another 10 mins. @ 10am, drive to the bank, and then to work... Is that not enough time for things to settle?
My tune is set up for 472, but noticed my 02 feedback hitting +/- 18 during WOT, and figured I needed to tinker w/ it a lil...
any insight would be much appreciated! I have read the how to, but Im not understanding why my low is reading at cruise and not at idle...
TIA
So I decided to log my trims again 6 months later, and my trims were -6 and I dont have a log from when I cruised it, but if I remember correctly it was ~ -7.
None of the latencies were touched!
So last night I decided to increase my scaling up to 496 trying to get it as close to "0" as I can w/ out spending too much time on it. So this morning I set out for my cruise (10 mins.) but let my car idle for 10 mins. last night after the rom change, and 10 mins. this morning, went to the bank, and then did my cruise (10 min.) to work, and noticed my low was reading (on cruise) @ -.8, and mid was @ +2. Is the LOW supposed to be reading on cruise???
Then I did my idle after I got to work, and noticed that my LOW wasnt reading @ all, "0" and MID was @ +2. Is MID supposed to be reading @ idle???
Why hasnt my low registered? I know you need to let it idle for 20 mins. before you do anything, which I did 10 mins @ 2am, and another 10 mins. @ 10am, drive to the bank, and then to work... Is that not enough time for things to settle?
My tune is set up for 472, but noticed my 02 feedback hitting +/- 18 during WOT, and figured I needed to tinker w/ it a lil...
any insight would be much appreciated! I have read the how to, but Im not understanding why my low is reading at cruise and not at idle...
TIA
If you have been playing with it and then had weather changes thats probably all it is. Thats why there are trims to account for altitude and air changes. I would set it back to stock and not worry about it. 8-10% either way is not that big a deal. It wont even throw a code unless its out of range by 25% (maxed either way) for a few drive cycles. If its a stock injector car with stock MAF they are what they are.
my two cents
my two cents
Thanks for the quick replys guys!
I have an Injen intake w/ upper and lower ICP's. I have not scaled my MAF. And boost leak was done in Jan. of this year. I might have a leak test done tomorrow if time permits...
There has indeed, been a huge temp. swing since the last time I played w/ the scalings... Im thinking I should probobly just set it back to stock (513) but I will have to re-tune my fuel map... again...
Is it safe to assume, the reason for my low reading @ cruise and my mid reading @ idle is due to the MAF scaling?
Whats the best order of attack on these 2? MAF, then injectors, or Inj., then MAF?
I apologize if its a dumb./newb question, but I skipped this in my learnign process (since Im still running stockers) I know Im working backwards, but I still wanna learn!
TIA!
I have an Injen intake w/ upper and lower ICP's. I have not scaled my MAF. And boost leak was done in Jan. of this year. I might have a leak test done tomorrow if time permits...
There has indeed, been a huge temp. swing since the last time I played w/ the scalings... Im thinking I should probobly just set it back to stock (513) but I will have to re-tune my fuel map... again...
Is it safe to assume, the reason for my low reading @ cruise and my mid reading @ idle is due to the MAF scaling?
Whats the best order of attack on these 2? MAF, then injectors, or Inj., then MAF?
I apologize if its a dumb./newb question, but I skipped this in my learnign process (since Im still running stockers) I know Im working backwards, but I still wanna learn!
TIA!
Last edited by nonschlont; Jul 20, 2009 at 01:01 PM.
update: ok, so I let the car idle for another 10 mins, and now have the low reading again... I guess I didnt let it idle for long enough... two 10 mins logging sessions do NOT equal a 20 min logging session, maybe...
Anyway, now I'll give it the standard 16 mins. to let everything settle, but as of now, bumping the scaling back up to 496 has brought the trims back to the + side. Low = +2.5, and mid was @ +2 w/ the 02 feedback @ +/- 5...
Anyway, now I'll give it the standard 16 mins. to let everything settle, but as of now, bumping the scaling back up to 496 has brought the trims back to the + side. Low = +2.5, and mid was @ +2 w/ the 02 feedback @ +/- 5...
Mitsu is smarter than you, leave the stock scaling and latencies alone when running stock injectors
Every time you touch your scaling and latencies you're throwing off your WOT fueling.
Every time you touch your scaling and latencies you're throwing off your WOT fueling.
+1 Leave the stock values for the latencies and injector size. Your intake is causeing the issue you are seeing. You will need to scale your MAF to get the results you are looking for.
Your intake pipe causes the airflow characteristics to change resulting in the MAF reading odd. Simply re-scaling the MAF to get your trims +/- 5% is all you will need to do.
In most cases, aftermarket hard pipes usually require increasing the MAF scaling numbers slightly. Just start with the idle values (50Hz and below) to get your LTFT low to come into check. Then smooth the graph to a nice curve. Go for a drive and you should see your LTFT mid come in to check as well.
Hope this helps.
Paul
Your intake pipe causes the airflow characteristics to change resulting in the MAF reading odd. Simply re-scaling the MAF to get your trims +/- 5% is all you will need to do.
In most cases, aftermarket hard pipes usually require increasing the MAF scaling numbers slightly. Just start with the idle values (50Hz and below) to get your LTFT low to come into check. Then smooth the graph to a nice curve. Go for a drive and you should see your LTFT mid come in to check as well.
Hope this helps.
Paul
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+1 Leave the stock values for the latencies and injector size. Your intake is causeing the issue you are seeing. You will need to scale your MAF to get the results you are looking for.
Your intake pipe causes the airflow characteristics to change resulting in the MAF reading odd. Simply re-scaling the MAF to get your trims +/- 5% is all you will need to do.
In most cases, aftermarket hard pipes usually require increasing the MAF scaling numbers slightly. Just start with the idle values (50Hz and below) to get your LTFT low to come into check. Then smooth the graph to a nice curve. Go for a drive and you should see your LTFT mid come in to check as well.
Hope this helps.
Paul
Your intake pipe causes the airflow characteristics to change resulting in the MAF reading odd. Simply re-scaling the MAF to get your trims +/- 5% is all you will need to do.
In most cases, aftermarket hard pipes usually require increasing the MAF scaling numbers slightly. Just start with the idle values (50Hz and below) to get your LTFT low to come into check. Then smooth the graph to a nice curve. Go for a drive and you should see your LTFT mid come in to check as well.
Hope this helps.
Paul
I just noticed my "High" trim hasnt been reading... I will definitely take your advice and and flash the 513 scaling back, re-tune the fuel map...again... lol And then re-scale the maf.
I think its just, I wanna practice scaling injectors. Only prob. is Im still running the stockers...
Thanks again 4 the advice.
o.k. so I have a couple more dumb questions... Last night I gave it a whole bunch of fuel, and flashed back to 513... This morning, I let her idle for 20 mins. did 4 logs, and a cruise log to work for (mid), and when I got to work, I tried logging my low trim... My mid is sitting @ +3 - +3.4 w/ an 02 feedback of +12 to -8. But when I go to log (low) it doesnt read. I let her idle for two 10 min. session one after the other, (once I noticed it didnt read the first time) so now my issue is my mid is logging @ idle and not my low.
Where do I go from here if my low isnt reading? My understanding is that I need to scale the MAF, but if my low isnt reading... Can I assume that the values Im getting for mid can be used for the low (@ idle) so I can work on my MAF scaling?
I was told by my tuner (a long time ago) that it wasnt necessary to re-scale the MAF...
From what I have read, just the intake, let alone the hard pipes will effect the MAF...
So this is what I know: my car idles @ 25 - 31hz Mid @ cruise was
+3 - +3.4, and Low not reading, but mid (@ idle) was @ +3 - +3.4.
I think I need a lil direction @ this point!
TIA
Where do I go from here if my low isnt reading? My understanding is that I need to scale the MAF, but if my low isnt reading... Can I assume that the values Im getting for mid can be used for the low (@ idle) so I can work on my MAF scaling?
I was told by my tuner (a long time ago) that it wasnt necessary to re-scale the MAF...
From what I have read, just the intake, let alone the hard pipes will effect the MAF... So this is what I know: my car idles @ 25 - 31hz Mid @ cruise was
+3 - +3.4, and Low not reading, but mid (@ idle) was @ +3 - +3.4.
I think I need a lil direction @ this point!
TIA
your mid looks pretty good. If I were you I would scale the 50, 25, and 19 Hz values about 5% larger to compensate for the Injen hard pipes.
You would do it like this.....
1) stock value is 145 at 19Hz
2) take the stock value of 145 and add 140 to it giving a value of 285
**There is a 140 adder that must be used**
3) take 285 + 5% giving 299.25
4) subtract the 140 adder from 299.25 giving 159.25
5) enter the 159.25 as your new units
6) repeat this process for the 25 and 50
7) then open the graph of the MAF scaling and smooth the rest to a nice perfect curve.
That's it.....Go log the results.
To hasten the potential for seeing the readings disconnect the battery and attempt to start the car. This will clear any residual ECU memory. Then, reconnect the battery and start the car. Yes, it will run like poop for a little bit as the ECU learns the new settings. Go for a nice long drive. Then log the results.
Give this a shot and let us know how it goes.
You would do it like this.....
1) stock value is 145 at 19Hz
2) take the stock value of 145 and add 140 to it giving a value of 285
**There is a 140 adder that must be used**
3) take 285 + 5% giving 299.25
4) subtract the 140 adder from 299.25 giving 159.25
5) enter the 159.25 as your new units
6) repeat this process for the 25 and 50
7) then open the graph of the MAF scaling and smooth the rest to a nice perfect curve.
That's it.....Go log the results.
To hasten the potential for seeing the readings disconnect the battery and attempt to start the car. This will clear any residual ECU memory. Then, reconnect the battery and start the car. Yes, it will run like poop for a little bit as the ECU learns the new settings. Go for a nice long drive. Then log the results.
Give this a shot and let us know how it goes.
your mid looks pretty good. If I were you I would scale the 50, 25, and 19 Hz values about 5% larger to compensate for the Injen hard pipes.
You would do it like this.....
1) stock value is 145 at 19Hz
2) take the stock value of 145 and add 140 to it giving a value of 285
**There is a 140 adder that must be used**
3) take 285 + 5% giving 299.25
4) subtract the 140 adder from 299.25 giving 159.25
5) enter the 159.25 as your new units
6) repeat this process for the 25 and 50
7) then open the graph of the MAF scaling and smooth the rest to a nice perfect curve.
That's it.....Go log the results.
To hasten the potential for seeing the readings disconnect the battery and attempt to start the car. This will clear any residual ECU memory. Then, reconnect the battery and start the car. Yes, it will run like poop for a little bit as the ECU learns the new settings. Go for a nice long drive. Then log the results.
Give this a shot and let us know how it goes.
You would do it like this.....
1) stock value is 145 at 19Hz
2) take the stock value of 145 and add 140 to it giving a value of 285
**There is a 140 adder that must be used**
3) take 285 + 5% giving 299.25
4) subtract the 140 adder from 299.25 giving 159.25
5) enter the 159.25 as your new units
6) repeat this process for the 25 and 50
7) then open the graph of the MAF scaling and smooth the rest to a nice perfect curve.
That's it.....Go log the results.
To hasten the potential for seeing the readings disconnect the battery and attempt to start the car. This will clear any residual ECU memory. Then, reconnect the battery and start the car. Yes, it will run like poop for a little bit as the ECU learns the new settings. Go for a nice long drive. Then log the results.
Give this a shot and let us know how it goes.
Can some1 give me a brief description on what the MAF Compensation table does. I dont recall seeing anything bout this table. Like I said I was told I didnt have to worry bout scaling the maf, so I skipped it, and moved on to the boost control stuff, so now Im working backwards... Im gonna re-read the maf scaling tonight, but any insight would be great!
TIA
Last edited by nonschlont; Jul 21, 2009 at 01:53 PM.
I took your advice, and rescaled my MAF from 19 - 50hz by 5%, and smoothed it out (2-3 units) till 302hz.
Now I just need to figure out why my (high) isnt reading at all...
Can some confirm for me, that I need to increase the values @ 500hz + to get my (high) trim to read... TIA
I will log this on the way home, and report back... Again, thanks for the guidance. Really appreciate it!
Last edited by nonschlont; Jul 21, 2009 at 03:44 PM.
here is a log. 1 brief cruise. My trims were much more positive last time I checked em 6-7 months ago... ~ +7 - +9... Now its @ +1.8. My low is now reading during cruise... Im thinking I need to lower my values between 50-300hz??? My idle log was too large to upload, but was @ (low) +1.4 and 02 was +5 / -1
Got my low reading. Thank you Paul.
Now I just need to get my high reading, and my low not reading during cruise, and I should be set. 500hz and above is where (high) starts? Would you recommend I add 5% to the 500hz + and smooth to get my high reading?
Got my low reading. Thank you Paul.






