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disabled egr via faa bit 11 and now crappy cold start help

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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 04:50 AM
  #1  
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From: mnt vernon ny
disabled egr via faa bit 11 and now crappy cold start help

as the title says. i disabled it because i had stuttering @ about 2500-3500 rpm. and timing was advancing way too much and it cause knock when going into mild boost like 0-5psi... now its fixed drives smooth as hell havent gotten around to logging a cruise though. but its getting colder. and i started my car erly in the morn and it sounded like crap rpm at times would fall to 300rpm.. so i did a quick log and i saw timing advance up to 20*-28* max at times. o yea i also disabled bit 10 . so im not sure if that would have an effect since when i re-enabled bit 11 it started and idled fine. o yea it only idles like crap till the car is fully warmed up. thnx
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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 05:18 AM
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From: Northern KY near Cincy
Funny you brought this up. Since the days are getting colder, I too have the same exact problem.

I even tried to zero out the "base low engine temp trim" table with null results.

I noticed too that the car wants to go super lean when trying to drive out of my subdivision at 20 mph. I have to push the clutch and rev it....it returns to normal. I repeat the process pretty much until the car is warm....then all is perfect.
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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 05:33 AM
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Since I disabled bit 11 when the car is cold I get this weird idle dip and when I come to a stop the car wants to die... once its warm it is fine...
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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 05:36 AM
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From: Northern KY near Cincy
Looks like we are all seeing the same problem with the EGR bits disabled.

There has to be a table setting somewhere that we can adjust to get thngs back in check.
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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 09:45 AM
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From: mnt vernon ny
yep glad to see im not the only one. and it didnt help my timing advances either... im still pulling alot of timing in cruise... i dont know what to do.. its like semi consistent knock... weird. thats the only reason i did the egr disable.
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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 12:13 PM
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I did this too, thinking it was the EGR test, and my cold start idle was dog poop. This is the EGR Ign. Adv. My cold start idle was so bad, I flashed it back, immediately, so not sure how it ran after being warm... I just zeroed out the EGR ig. adv. table, and left it on... Idle was much smoother.

Periphery 0/FAA:
-EGR(ign advance) Bit 11 disable(some people leave it on, up to you)

Periphery 2/FCA:
- EVAP> Bit 13,14,15 Disable
- EGR > Bit 9 Disable

Periphery 4/FEA:
- FPR> Bit 7 Disable(When you also disable FCA/P2 Bit 15 that will also take care of the FPR)

Also, if you wanna turn off the EGR completely, mrfred has come up w/ a new definition for turning off the EGR...

ok, after some more disassem of the EGR routines, I have found that Periphery 0 (FAA) bit11 does not actually shut off the EGR system until the coolant temp passes ~68C. Its ok to use if you plan on ripping out all the EGR stuff. However, it turns out that there is a byte length value that completely disables the EGR system and is a better choice to use.

For USDM Evo 8 94170008-15 use:

<table name="EGR System Enable/Disable" category="Emissions EGR" address="103D" type="1D" level="2" scaling="uint8"/>

For USDM Evo 8 96420007-11, 96940011, USDM Evo 9 88590013-15, and EDM Evo 8 96530006 use:

<table name="EGR System Enable/Disable" category="Emissions EGR" address="1041" type="1D" level="2" scaling="uint8"/>

A value of "0" disables the EGR system and sets the EGR duty to 0% all the time. "1" enables the EGR system.

Last edited by chaotichoax; Sep 9, 2009 at 09:07 PM.
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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 01:04 PM
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Funny, I've had FAA bit 11 =1 and FCA bit 9 = 0 for a LONG time and had all of these problems other than the high initial idle. I didn't notice either of them until i dropped in a new intake.

My only difference here is that my cold start idle is very low immediately and slowly comes up to the correct RPM unless I rev it. I mainly see applaud's problems. Aside from that I get a rich speak then lean spike at coming to idle, but this happens warm or cold. It seems to settle perfectly if I give it a little rev, and the airflowhz will be in the high 20's - mid 30's and not change as the AFR swings.

After playing with my injector latencies recently all has gotten much better, but I'll try the overall EGR disable and enabling the other 2 to see if it cures my problem for you guys.

Last edited by fostytou; Sep 9, 2009 at 02:22 PM.
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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 02:07 PM
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Jebus Criminy, Finally, a thread that has the issue's I've been carrying on about with EGR disabled. There has to be a count down timer, a fuel, timing map or something that we are missing.
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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 02:30 PM
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From: Northern KY near Cincy
Since winter is on the way....I am sure more and more people will surface with these issues.
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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 04:05 PM
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Funny, I've had FAA bit 11 =1 and FCA bit 9 = 0 for a LONG time and had all of these problems other than the high initial idle. I didn't notice either of them until i dropped in a new intake.

My only difference here is that my cold start idle is very low immediately and slowly comes up to the correct RPM unless I rev it. I mainly see applaud's problems. Aside from that I get a rich speak then lean spike at coming to idle, but this happens warm or cold. It seems to settle perfectly if I give it a little rev, and the airflowhz will be in the high 20's - mid 30's and not change as the AFR swings.

After playing with my injector latencies recently all has gotten much better, but I'll try the overall EGR disable and enabling the other 2 to see if it cures my problem for you guys.
Is this similiar to what we were seeing in the other threads?

How do I scale the injector latency's, is that something i would want to concider for similiar issues?

Thanks.
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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 05:59 PM
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I had those symptoms from day one with those settings. I tried it before I had the engine done and the car idled like crap cold even in warm 80* weather. One of the main reasons I havent gone to a DI intake instead of the stocker.

I ll try the EGR table delete here by this weekend.

Thanks for posting those tables!!
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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 08:49 PM
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From: Northern KY near Cincy
I only disabled the EGR related bits. My Evap stuff and the FPR are still active. The results are the same as others whom have disabled it all.

I will have to log the event to get better details for all of us to troubleshoot.....unless someone beats me to the punch.

In short, the car acts like it is pulling a ton of timing and pulling fuel. I can see the fuel being pulled by my WB. It goes very lean.....18 to 20ish. I rev it, and as stated earlier, it returns to normal AFR...but then it goes lean and runs like butt again. The process is repeated until it is warm....and voila..no more issue.
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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 10:04 PM
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I had this same problem throughout the summer. I had horrible idle, afr was all over the place but usually lean, but as soon as the ecu saw 154* (or 156*) for coolant temp scaled, the rpm would jump a little bit, settle back down and then it idled perfect. It took me awhile to figure out what caused it. I verified it with several logs. If I remember correctly, it only did it with the bit disabled and wasn't caused by zeroing out the timing in the egr table.
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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 10:06 PM
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From: Kansas City
Originally Posted by Appauldd
In short, the car acts like it is pulling a ton of timing and pulling fuel. I can see the fuel being pulled by my WB. It goes very lean.....18 to 20ish. I rev it, and as stated earlier, it returns to normal AFR...but then it goes lean and runs like butt again. The process is repeated until it is warm....and voila..no more issue.
Actually, this is exactly what my car did. If you want I will look to see if I have logs from it as I took several to try to figure it out.
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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 10:08 PM
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From: Northern KY near Cincy
So did you 0 out the egr table and have the bits enabled to varify your findings???
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