Stock ECU boost control vs MBC - an intelligent and friendly debate
A lot of that jagged line/ secondary spike seem to come from people relying too heavily on the boost correction tables. I spent a ton of time getting my individual gears tuned in without corrections, and I eliminated any spikes that I could see on the gauge. (I didn't have a new map sensor then. I was tuning based on load)
I also switched from the crappy AMS-went-to-the-hardware-store MBC and spool was notably better, though as noted, I can't comment on the nicer MBCs
I also switched from the crappy AMS-went-to-the-hardware-store MBC and spool was notably better, though as noted, I can't comment on the nicer MBCs
Ya but with the correction interval at 3-5 times a second it's a jaggedy line not really a spike.
Not trying to argue, I have just seen many, actually almost all (good) pro tuners prefer MBCs and I'm still baffled why. Wouldn't you have to settle for picking one gear to set your MBC and have to compromise on the rest?
I have messed with an MBC before but don't have much experience.
Not trying to argue, I have just seen many, actually almost all (good) pro tuners prefer MBCs and I'm still baffled why. Wouldn't you have to settle for picking one gear to set your MBC and have to compromise on the rest?
I have messed with an MBC before but don't have much experience.
Ill tune ECU boost and I dont charge more for it or care that it takes longer.
Yes. This is the one place that a MBC will never be able to match a EBC. We can argue over which one spools faster all day but until you can get a MBC to hold the same boost in all gears I think an EBC will always have the advantage at the track. It does seem like a lot of the pro tuners prefer MBCs but I think at least part of the reason why is because they're a lot easier and a lot less time-consuming to tune.
Another reason tuners like MBC's is because when your on the dyno or at the track, and you wanna raise the boost, to see if you can get more power or a faster time, you dont have to go though all the "tuning" that is required with ECU boost. You just turn the boost up and make some more pulls.
1 - wastegate selection (stiffer of course is better) and wastegate preload (more preload = less taper)
2 - MBC type and stiffness of spring - (Run the stiffest spring available for the MBC you have. Advantages of a stiffer spring in your MBC: less boost spikes, more constant boost curve and less taper)
3 - PORTING! - port everything you can. Porting parts and making the flow of the engine less restricted will lead to faster spool, a better, more solid boost curve and less taper, while using a MBC (or any form of boost control).
Theres a couple of tips.
2 - MBC type and stiffness of spring - (Run the stiffest spring available for the MBC you have. Advantages of a stiffer spring in your MBC: less boost spikes, more constant boost curve and less taper)
3 - PORTING! - port everything you can. Porting parts and making the flow of the engine less restricted will lead to faster spool, a better, more solid boost curve and less taper, while using a MBC (or any form of boost control).
Theres a couple of tips.
Seriously though its a 22psi spring and I believe the Perrin has the stiff spring and everything is ported everything. Could it be that the Turbo is just running out steam or maybe I just need to spin it faster down low so it tapers to a higher number.I like the idea of a good EBC with a high and low boost setting to change on the fly.
Holding the same boost in each gear doesnt matter that much. Boost is not everything. 
Another reason tuners like MBC's is because when your on the dyno or at the track, and you wanna raise the boost, to see if you can get more power or a faster time, you dont have to go though all the "tuning" that is required with ECU boost. You just turn the boost up and make some more pulls.
Another reason tuners like MBC's is because when your on the dyno or at the track, and you wanna raise the boost, to see if you can get more power or a faster time, you dont have to go though all the "tuning" that is required with ECU boost. You just turn the boost up and make some more pulls.

I have a 3 port on my car as well as in cabin hallman..I like hallman for better spoolup and a more stable boost curve. ECU boost always wants to hunt while in error correction mode, it annoys me so I run just wgdc on my personal car..ECU boost definitely provides moar top end with the same peak pressure which is great for power. I typically switch back and fourth regularly depending on use.
For those that don't want to tune ECU boost, but also don't want the downsides to an MBC, you can always use a cheap EBC, like I do. As mentioned above, I use the Greddy Profec Type S (basically remodel of the old Profec B from the old days).
They are very simple, should be cheap now, have an in cabin control, and has controls for boost and boost response. In my opinions, solenoids are better than springs in every aspect.
Also, if you wanted to do ECU Boost control and have instant changes, you can always use a LiveMap ROM, if available, and put those maps in RAM. But, I know that not many Roms are supported, etc.
They are very simple, should be cheap now, have an in cabin control, and has controls for boost and boost response. In my opinions, solenoids are better than springs in every aspect.
Also, if you wanted to do ECU Boost control and have instant changes, you can always use a LiveMap ROM, if available, and put those maps in RAM. But, I know that not many Roms are supported, etc.
Once you have your curve dialed in it's not really a big deal to turn the boost up or down. I bring my laptop with me to the track and log all of my runs so it stays hooked up the entire time I'm there. It probably takes me less than 60 seconds to make changes to the WGDC tables and reflash it the car. Unless you have an in-cabin Controller, I'm sure it takes just as long to pop the hood, get out of the car, change the boost, close the hood and get back in the car. If we ever meet, we can have a race to see who can change their boost levels faster 



And I can prob adjust my MBC in about 20 seconds. So, Ill win your lil race.
For those that don't want to tune ECU boost, but also don't want the downsides to an MBC, you can always use a cheap EBC, like I do. As mentioned above, I use the Greddy Profec Type S (basically remodel of the old Profec B from the old days).
They are very simple, should be cheap now, have an in cabin control, and has controls for boost and boost response. In my opinions, solenoids are better than springs in every aspect.
Also, if you wanted to do ECU Boost control and have instant changes, you can always use a LiveMap ROM, if available, and put those maps in RAM. But, I know that not many Roms are supported, etc.
They are very simple, should be cheap now, have an in cabin control, and has controls for boost and boost response. In my opinions, solenoids are better than springs in every aspect.
Also, if you wanted to do ECU Boost control and have instant changes, you can always use a LiveMap ROM, if available, and put those maps in RAM. But, I know that not many Roms are supported, etc.
[quote=Boosted Tuning;9525293]But I doubt you can tune ECU boost in one reflash. Usually going from pump gas boost levels to race gas levels, takes a couple reflashes.
And I can prob adjust my MBC in about 20 seconds. So, Ill win your lil race.
I'm not talking about switching fuels and all that... that's another story. If you're switching fuels you'd likely be switching to new fuel and timing maps as well, so let's compare apples to apples here.
I'm talking about being at the track with everything dialed in already. All I have to do is make a quick change to the WGDC tables and flash it and I'm done. It takes longer for my laptop to write it to the ECU than it does for me to make the changes.
And I can prob adjust my MBC in about 20 seconds. So, Ill win your lil race.
I'm not talking about switching fuels and all that... that's another story. If you're switching fuels you'd likely be switching to new fuel and timing maps as well, so let's compare apples to apples here.
I'm talking about being at the track with everything dialed in already. All I have to do is make a quick change to the WGDC tables and flash it and I'm done. It takes longer for my laptop to write it to the ECU than it does for me to make the changes.
I'm not talking about switching fuels and all that... that's another story. If you're switching fuels you'd likely be switching to new fuel and timing maps as well, so let's compare apples to apples here.
I'm talking about being at the track with everything dialed in already. All I have to do is make a quick change to the WGDC tables and flash it and I'm done. It takes longer for my laptop to write it to the ECU than it does for me to make the changes.
I'm talking about being at the track with everything dialed in already. All I have to do is make a quick change to the WGDC tables and flash it and I'm done. It takes longer for my laptop to write it to the ECU than it does for me to make the changes.
You can argue as much as you want. You can set a MBC faster then you can set ECU boost. Its a fact.
However, that doesn't really have anything to do with my previous statement. All I was simply saying was that if you're going to compare the amount of time it takes to change boost with a MBC vs. an EBC then you need to compare apples to apples. You can't throw another variable in like switching to race gas and say that it's a fair competition. When I was talking about changing the boost that's exactly what I meant- changing it (turning it up or down), not tuning it. Those are two entirely different things (as you well know cuz you wrote the how-to). Honestly man, I never meant anything by saying we should race, it was really just meant as a joke (hence the two little faces laughing at the end of my statement). In reality, you probably would win that race... but it wouldn't be by much.
In your initial statement you stated that changing boost at the track takes longer because of "all the tuning" it requires. My only point is that if everything else is already set properly and dialed in (which it should be if you're at the track) then changing the boost with the ECU can be done in a matter of seconds and doesn't require a whole lot of tuning. It's no different than turning the knob on an MBC at that point.
I've been curious about getting a Grimmspeed 3 port & using ECU controlled boost. Would I ever have to worry about changing boost levels once it's properly setup & tuned? It looks like MBC's need to be constantly adjusted to compensate for changes in temperature. This is enough for me to want ECU controlled boost.






