Recommended tuning books to read?
Any one of those, or any other specific to help educate on cam performance. I am particularly interested in tuning the MIVEC now for my Kelford 272s. The couple of mivec threads I have read kind of jump back on forth on advance versus retard producing better results.
I think I may need to better learn the mechanics of the combustion that are going on when advancing or retarding the intake cam.
I think I may need to better learn the mechanics of the combustion that are going on when advancing or retarding the intake cam.
Of course you have smaller increments the more serious you are, but it takes more time.
Then you average the runs for each advance setting and lay that out onto one big dyno plot.
For each part of the powerband, you use the MIVEC advance of the highest line. If you averaged right and used the same road, you should come out with a rather optimized map.
Fine tune from there since it alters your dynamic compression ratio and may introduce tip-in knock or other "symptoms" to an otherwise good tune....
I've also noticed sometimes that you're over-doing the MIVEC if you very slightly lift the throttle while fully WOT and the car seems to get stronger as the cam retards. That's a sign it's over advanced and losing power up top.
Good luck
I've heard of people "brute forcing it" by simply setting a static MIVEC setting and performing a few VD runs on the same road on the same day for each increment of X degrees.
Of course you have smaller increments the more serious you are, but it takes more time.
Then you average the runs for each advance setting and lay that out onto one big dyno plot.
For each part of the powerband, you use the MIVEC advance of the highest line. If you averaged right and used the same road, you should come out with a rather optimized map.
Fine tune from there since it alters your dynamic compression ratio and may introduce tip-in knock or other "symptoms" to an otherwise good tune....
I've also noticed sometimes that you're over-doing the MIVEC if you very slightly lift the throttle while fully WOT and the car seems to get stronger as the cam retards. That's a sign it's over advanced and losing power up top.
Good luck
Of course you have smaller increments the more serious you are, but it takes more time.
Then you average the runs for each advance setting and lay that out onto one big dyno plot.
For each part of the powerband, you use the MIVEC advance of the highest line. If you averaged right and used the same road, you should come out with a rather optimized map.
Fine tune from there since it alters your dynamic compression ratio and may introduce tip-in knock or other "symptoms" to an otherwise good tune....
I've also noticed sometimes that you're over-doing the MIVEC if you very slightly lift the throttle while fully WOT and the car seems to get stronger as the cam retards. That's a sign it's over advanced and losing power up top.
Good luck

Also interesting that you could feel with the overdone portion in the car by lifting off. That would be worth experimenting just to feel it give a shove on off throttle because of the overlap going away.
Now for my homework that arrived today. Yikes.

Nice reading! Let me know if you find anything cool in there. I may just order something myself for reading.... You've inspired me!
With regards to setting all 5's then 10's etc, yeah that is exactly what I'm talking about. If you average more than one run for each static setting, you're basically accounting for some of the error drift between run to run. Obviously don't just slam the numbers in there without loosening up the tune in other areas to keep it safe. You'll think of this more as a baseline then work back towards a dialed in setting.
You can divide up the work in various ways if you really think about it. For instance to tune boost response, log at 2000rpm exactly before stabbing the throttle. Do this a few times for each static MIVEC setting and see which one spooled up the best *using the log as the time source for accuracy*... Then do 2500rpm, then 3000rpm, etc. Or 2500, 2600,2700 if you're more serious. You get the point.
Then log for a few days and monitor knock. Fine tune it once you encounter random knock with new weather conditions. Bla bla bla.... Then you go back and start over, but this time you don't throw 5's, 10's, etc over the whole map.... you just select a smaller portion of the map in a targeted squares of 4-6 cells and make them either slightly more aggressive or slightly less and see what happens. Basically introducing less drastic wide-sweeping changes but smaller local changes....
It's tedious and prone to error if you are not disciplined about it. I'm serious! You will see knock here and there, it's not the safest method by far. If you are lax about accuracy, it's truly a waste of time. Be careful
With regards to setting all 5's then 10's etc, yeah that is exactly what I'm talking about. If you average more than one run for each static setting, you're basically accounting for some of the error drift between run to run. Obviously don't just slam the numbers in there without loosening up the tune in other areas to keep it safe. You'll think of this more as a baseline then work back towards a dialed in setting.
You can divide up the work in various ways if you really think about it. For instance to tune boost response, log at 2000rpm exactly before stabbing the throttle. Do this a few times for each static MIVEC setting and see which one spooled up the best *using the log as the time source for accuracy*... Then do 2500rpm, then 3000rpm, etc. Or 2500, 2600,2700 if you're more serious. You get the point.
Then log for a few days and monitor knock. Fine tune it once you encounter random knock with new weather conditions. Bla bla bla.... Then you go back and start over, but this time you don't throw 5's, 10's, etc over the whole map.... you just select a smaller portion of the map in a targeted squares of 4-6 cells and make them either slightly more aggressive or slightly less and see what happens. Basically introducing less drastic wide-sweeping changes but smaller local changes....
It's tedious and prone to error if you are not disciplined about it. I'm serious! You will see knock here and there, it's not the safest method by far. If you are lax about accuracy, it's truly a waste of time. Be careful
Last edited by acidtonic; Oct 5, 2012 at 09:11 PM.
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