can anyone hint me what value to set for NLTS drop rpm ? should it match my actual shift point ?

also how to fix shift knock, as it picks up knock when fast shifting, with or without NLTS

 

NLTS drop rpm just means how much the ecu is allowed to drop in RPM's once you shift without lifting.. so if you shift slow the rpm's are gonna drop as much as you set that value to.

shift knock can be caused by the car not mapped right.

 

if the drop is set say at 800 rpm and I shift slow, can rpm bounce cause knock ?

if I increase drop value so the rpm don't bounce between shifts, will it eliminate knock ?

 

You can try.. id recommend going over the engine bay and checking for any loose parts hitting/rubbing against each other that can cause vibrations to the engine and tip off the knock sensor if you really dont think its real knock.

heatshields, ic pipes rubbing things, downpipe hitting things, etc.

 

check PM

 

The RPM drop value for NLTS finally depends on three things:

1) gearing of your car gearbox (different for 6MT vs 5MT vs custom)
2) RPMs where you actually shift
3) how much of abuse you want to put on your gearbox

In detail:

1) RPM drop values for the stock 6MT and 5MT are as follows (based on the gearing with shifting at 7,500)*:

1 -> 2 2,500 2,500
2 -> 3 2,000 2,100
3 -> 4 1,700 2,000
4 -> 5 1,600 2,250
5 -> 6 1,600 N/A

2) shift point depends onpower curve of your car, in my opinion for the near-stock Evo (tuned, exhaust, other minor mods, stock turbo, stock cams) it should be somewhere near 7,500
3) your choice

Based on the above I suggest starting with NLTS RPM drop value of 1,900 for the EvoIX with 5MT and 1,600 for the EvoIX with 6MT.

* - RPM drop values for the gearbox is calculated by the following procedure:

1) determine the speed of the car on the current gear at shifting point
2) determine the RPM at the same speed on the next higher gear
3) difference between RPM at 1) and RPM at 2) gives you RPM drop value between gears under consideration

 

Shift knock can be mostly eliminated by lowering timing in the 150-190 load area where shifting occurs. I can post the relevent area of my timing map when I get home tonight.

I've tested this on my car and someone else's with pretty good results so far.

 

^^

good hint.. waiting for your screenshot

 

good info vd !

I can give feedback about my NLTS test :
I set it up to 1700rpm drop and for 3-4-5-6 it's okay and work as expected, I think it's even smoother than with regular lift-off that way

but when shiffting 2-3 I often can't "enter" third gear, it's like something is blocking the lever in neutral for 1-2 seconds and then I can shift to third, there's no weird noise or drama more like the lever doesnt want to go up.
I tought it was me hitting the limiter or my car, but then i disabled NLTS and the problem was gone.
I now changed the rpm drop to 2000rpm I'll see if it's working better like that.

FYI here's a graph of how much the rpm drops every gear change when I was doing a 1/4mile run (no NLTS), I dont do it often mind you since we have no drag strip in the country
evo IX 6-speed

 

Pic of my timing map with changes highlighted as promised. "Before" is on the top and "after" is on the bottom.

 

In my opinion, that is too much timing decrease, is it worth it to have such drop in timing just to have NLTS?
Is it possible to set different NLTS drop values for each gear change? Tephra 5.10 include one drop value, does V7 include more?

 

+1 on that

 

You seem to imply that there's a negative side to reducing timing in that area. Am I correct? It's not like it really affects power, it's in a rpm/load range that is rarely seen.

v7 has only one drop value.

 

I tried to activate NLTS last night and now the car will not run at WOT?!?! Sounds like it is breaking up badly....and it only does it at WOT.

Car ran great all weekend with multiple WOT runs...soon as I flashed NLTS mod and set 2k rpm drop the car runs like a$$. I turned the NLTS mod OFF and the **** will not go away????

I've looked at all vacuum lines, hoses, plugs, etc...everything seems normal. WTF

 

Stop leaning your foot onto your clutch pedal. Even with the slightest push, the clutch switch sends a signal which activates NLTS. Or, your clutch switch is faulty.