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Final consensus on SD for a daily driver?

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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 07:05 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by tscompusa
read this.. https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ec...bles-baro.html targets more on elevation stuff. however i dont use that 3d stuff its buggier then the original 2d imo.

i never had a customer complain their sd tune went to crap when they went somewhere drive ability wise.. but just in general your WOT afr is going to change. that is what i meant.

there are baro tables on the rom for this as well as i noted.

your car shouldnt go from great to horrible tho in elevation changes as you kind of explained above.
yea i drove the car to Ohio. john tuned it at buschurs and the car was scary fast. we beet the crap out of it on the way home. once i was about half way threw PA afr's started walking all over. WOT popping and when i got home just 60mph 5th gear AFR was 10.X. i parked the car and had to tow it out of my driveway. it would not move.

i changed 3 sensors thinking maybe something failed. but being john was so far away i figured it was time to just go the distance and get something well proven.
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 07:08 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by tscompusa
well it will go from ok to drastically horrible if it isnt setup right to begin with.. say you were tuned in a diff state and you were still not tuned good.. car was spiking 17-18's at take off.. barely making it ok for stop and go.. well you move to a diff area and now all the sudden you're at 20+ afr on take off and you cant even get the car to move because as your reving up to take off you sputter and stall out and the car chokes on itself..

now lets say you were tuned at that same area but the tune was set for say 13-14 at take off.. you probably would never experience any of that choke or sputter once you reached your area because it would go from say 13-14 to 17 or so..

see what im saying? what Aaron said is right.. it depends how its setup.. if its setup wrong from the beginning then any little thing is gonna throw it off and make it run like ****.
i see what your saying and it makes sense. i can not blame john at all though. i provided the base SD map and i used to bug him daily because id screw up simple tastes before SD was available. haha. he did what he could with the garbage i provided is how i would put it.
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 07:18 PM
  #33  
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Once I converted to SD I have had no regrets with it. I love everything about it and would recommend it to anyone still on the MAF. Just my .02
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 05:19 AM
  #34  
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It was about 50 degrees this morning and my car started up just fine. I didn't move it until 120 degrees, but she fired right up, idled around 2k for a few seconds, and slowly crept down to my target idle. I do have this nasty tip-in rich problem, which seems to be worse when the motor is cold, but i'm sure I can tune that out.
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 06:01 AM
  #35  
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Good thread...still on the fence with SD....you guys say slight problems with elevation and cold temps...i got the worst of both worlds here in Colorado lol.
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 06:23 AM
  #36  
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You want temp swings?? I drove my car on SD the past 3 years, from temps around 120 degrees, all the way into the 30's last winter. Altitudes from 1,500' all the way to 8,000'.

Driving to MOD this summer, the car went from 1,500 feet, up through 4,500 feet, then back to sea level with ambient temps as high as 120, going down into the 70's. This was in a 3 hour time span, and the tune was rock solid.
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 08:29 AM
  #37  
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To me, SD seems like more of a headache than its worth. I even know one very knowledgeable evo owner that is switching back to MAF after trying SD. Maybe someday SD will be the standard in the evo community. But for now, it seems like the majority of sweetly running 4g63's are still MAF based.

Ask yourself if the juice is worth the squeeze.
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 09:42 AM
  #38  
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SD evolves.

Cars I tuned a year ago dont reflect what I did last month. Last month doesnt necessarily reflect today. We learn stuff every day and every time we do it so basing a dislike of SD on one car is kinda silly. It is evolving and is getting more and more stock everyday. The main thing is if you dont want it drive like anything other than stock dont mod it, its always better but its never gonna be stock. For reference my car which is probably one of the most extreme combos I can think of does drive like stock. Main reason its something I can refine and then pass on.

Aaron

Last edited by JohnBradley; Oct 26, 2011 at 09:46 AM.
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 10:25 AM
  #39  
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Personally, I live in Cali and can go through a pretty good elevation change when i drive home to louisiana once or twice a year.

Until someone figures out how to incorporate an aftermarket baro into SD, I'm not sold on it. If I was planning on pushing over 500 hp on it since it's a DD... I would so to SD because the driveability would be worth it and I know haw to touch up a SD tune if it starts bucking around due to elevation.

In the early days, I would be 100% against it. These days, it's kinda a wash... In another year or two, I'm sure it will become the gold standard.
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 10:53 AM
  #40  
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You dont need an aftermarket Baro. The MAP sensor is your baro. If you wanted the baro to reset at every start you can do that now. We havent seen a need from sea level to 5,000 and GotWheelHop ran out to 8k so I think we are good.

Aaron

Last edited by JohnBradley; Oct 26, 2011 at 02:22 PM.
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 12:16 PM
  #41  
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I've been seriously considering going to SD myself as I'm going to be retuning with a 3'' downpipe, o2 delete, and then double pumper/FIC1450s/E85. Just with a stock block I don't really see the intake restriction being an issue at that power level, and I recirculate my BOV anyway. I hear a lot of comments about how "smooth" SD tunes are, but my car drives like stock with MAF, so I can't really imagine it getting much better?
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 12:29 PM
  #42  
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the power gains are evident from a restrictive maf to a 3" intake no maf, there was a dyno test on this somewhere on here.
everyone has their opinion on what drives better. even the COP kit was said to perform better. although everyones opinion is different, to some it might be a huge difference, to others theres no change. i found that out after reading about spring rates,driveline bushings and motor mounts. cant trust what peoples opinions are, you can only take them for what its worth and try it yourself.
the only real way to know is if YOU the drive did not know about the change. then the next time you drive ur car and it feels different then that is proof to yourself that it has changed. otherwise your mind is set that there is "suppose" to be a change and you will force yourself to believe there is.
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 04:16 PM
  #43  
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Err, i'm still on the fence. I'm starting my tune over tonight as I had this nasty throttle tip-in rich issue that I could NOT make go away. (yes, rich. not lean.)
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 04:44 PM
  #44  
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The 101 value look at the value to the right side. I am going with it is greater than 101.

Aaron
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 08:31 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by JohnBradley
The 101 value look at the value to the right side. I am going with it is greater than 101.

Aaron
It was, yes, by about 15%. But I threw that ROM in the garbage and started over. Yesterday, I was getting ahead of myself and made a "tuned" rom prior to flashing the car. ( due to what I was seeing posted on this board) That was a mistake on my part. I started form scratch tonight, exactly how the ROM comes from tephra v7 (9417) and my car is running much better. I turned closed loop off and went for a ride watching AFR at every RPM up to 3500rpm, then made adjustments to my VE RPM followed by fine tuning of VE map. The richness at tip-in is almost nonexistant and I think I can get the rest of it away once I start messing with the AccellvsTPS map. (it actually now hits lean for a split second, but only up to 16 AFR) I'll follow up by checking my trims tomorrow after work.

BTW, now my 101 kpa setting is still 101 load.
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