..and I'd like to get some perspective from those with more experience (arm chairs need not apply )
This has been the culmination of the last couple days out testing and doing pulls, after my recent X-swap.
Applicable Mods:
X-Turbo, Manifold, Actuator
Tomioka Racing Widemouth DP
cp-e HFC
Stock Catback w/RRE Muffler Mod
AEM intake
GrimmSpeed 3-port
3" IC and 2.5" piping

Here is the Timing Tables (Low Octane & Upper Bound are -5/+5 except for idle)
[IMG][/IMG]

So I got WOT pretty much down, 3rd will take another couple degrees no problem, but even 1 more and 4th starts knocking at 6k. This works really well with Bryan's old gst-MIVEC tables, so keep it as is
Any ideas from those who have learned some tricks for partial throttle and 'track-transitional' (aka 3.5-6.5K x 80-120 load).
TIA,
Steve

 

Send us a few logs at wot

 

2700-3250 has too many 7's, taper it down

 

This^

7 is pretty high during peak torque. I tried 10 degrees, 7 degrees, and 5 degrees all during peak torque and there was NO additional power made over when its at 4 degrees.

You shouldn't go any higher than 17 degrees in the high rpms.

 

You can also increase timing in the cruise areas of the map for more power/mpg - mainly where there are 40s. Stock, a 2011 Evo has 44 degrees of timing there. I've gone up to 46 myself and it seems like there's still room for more gain. With some of my other changes I can easily hit 26mpg avg on the display and 25mpg+ calculated (all highway, some WOT, no city).

 

46? damn.

 

New and Improved:


You will notice top end is incomplete. Currently playing around with different WGDC and MIVEC

 

I'm not sure that makes sense, I cruise in the 40-80 x 2250-3000 region. If I flat line timing here I get crazy *** knock (MIVEC).

 

What I meant was the areas of your map that ORIGINALLY had 40 timing advance, not the parts that you increased to 40. I've actually dropped down from 46 to 45... doesn't actually seem like there's a difference between them like I thought before.

When you increase the timing in those areas you'll make a little bit more power and you'll be able to maintain the same speed with less throttle and it should lower your cruise load a bit. My boost gauge sits at about -8 when I'm in that area.

 

I cruise mine @ 44* out to 40 load, 42* @ 50, and 40* @ 60 load.

Im w/ Chet on this one, 7* @ peak tq is too much. 3-4* is the happy spot, and 16-17 up top.

 

16* up top with 22-24 psi is pefect for 91

 

I've been running 6-7* no problems for 4 months. The reason I don't like 3-4* is this causes over boost in cold weather, before corrections can kick in. Timing keeps boost in check on spool-up.

 

not if you're using PSI based boost control

 

I am on Direct Boost You can still easily over run your target boost on spool-up...EASILY
Direct Boost isn't absolute, it doesn't have "you shall not pass" capabilities. But it is worlds easier to maintain boost levels once they are achieved (i.e. no longer have to worry about boost creep).

 

So your telling me that direct boost control doesn't have the boost cut?